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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2007 - 03:52pm PT
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Yes, there is a "Mickey Mantle" - near Eightmile Rock in Leavenworth, WA. It's misidentified in the old Smoot guidebook - it's up and right from the main rock. I'm not sure if it's shown correctly in the Kramar guide.
"Retable" is another term which is sometimes used instead of "mantelshelf". There's an old route in the Quincy Quarries called Double Retable. Apparently a retable is a small shelf on an altar:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retable
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 26, 2007 - 04:45pm PT
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The hardest I have ever seen is, "Eli Can't Pushup," in Tahoe. Never repeated.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 26, 2007 - 07:54pm PT
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There is a Mickey Mantle route in Vedauwoo. 10d, hee hee
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scooter
climber
B loop site 15
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Feb 27, 2007 - 03:03am PT
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Behind Puppy there is a mantle that my buds and I all call the Bachar Mantle. Off two knobs, a little guy and a flat one. All with a nice little jump to start 'er off. I think it is way harder than the c4 mantles. Plus the fall is not clean. J.B.- do you know the mantle? Is it truly a Bachar Mantle? Or just something with your name ascribed to it.
Patrick
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana
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Feb 27, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
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Hardest mantel in the USA and that I've ever done...hmmm? That would have to be my wife's taught bum...it usually takes two hands and I have push down really hard on while I pull the move:)
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2007 - 01:46pm PT
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Patrick - Behind Puppy Dome? hmmm...I'd have to see it (or a pic). I did a lot of problems there back in the day and I can barely remember the ultra classics!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Bachar - of course you've lost your mind - years ago as I recall -
the best and hardest mantels - and all the mantel kings are, of course, AT WOODSON.
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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"Behind Puppy there is a mantle that my buds and I all call the Bachar Mantle. Off two knobs, a little guy and a flat one. All with a nice little jump to start 'er off. I think it is way harder than the c4 mantles."
scooter, I know of what you speak. That one is not so bad (albeit incredibly fun), the one to the right is much harder. I couldn't even pull my weight of the ground for more than a few seconds let alone begin to mantle it out. Have you tried it? It begins on piss poor slopers at about head height.
-Justin
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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I wanna know about this frustrating mantle over at Swan Slab that's maybe 50 feet left of Grant's crack near that 5.9 lieback.
It's right in front of your face, looks like a mini-stem-jam, and there just ain't enough there to claw onto. I heard Werner can do it.
Peace
Karl "don't do mantles" Baba
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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I saw guys trying to do the Stem gem mantle all week long last trip to Jtree(my favorite campspot, for it's sociability, is #23). Some good tries, but no takers.
I like mantling, myself, but can't do anywhere near the stuff you guys are talking about. But! There is a mantle move at the Gunks on Hans Puss, 2nd pitch, mid route, that gave me pause last fall. That route earns it's stars, mindf*#king you along the way, and then...you see the belay. Right there, above you. Except..... you have to mantle up this move. It has a thin ledge, maybe half a shoe's lenght deep, with the rock wall continuing right in your face above the mantle section.
On mantles, it has always seemed to me like they're in the bag once you've gotten your center of gravity over the edge. Not on this one. You get up there, there's no tipping forward to help roll up a leg. In fact, I think I had to turn my head sideways in order to give me that little extra bit of room where my nose had been.
So, you're up there, pressing out, nose to the side, and feeling like the rock is about to push you backwards. You get the viscerable sensation that you'll be going right over backwards and rolling into the abyss if you blow it. Despite that, you have to reach hiiiiigh to get a little crimpy type of hold for balance and pull so you can get your foot to the ledge.
At least that was what happened to me. Your experience may vary.
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Jefe'
Boulder climber
Bishop
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Juan, hows about those slopers at Baldy.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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BVB, Largo, Fish and Watusi are right - mantel king status may well have to go to Shawn Curtis.
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Leroy
climber
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Mar 26, 2007 - 05:44am PT
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I remember Bachar and I did ahard mantle somewhere left of the stemgem camp.Proof that it was hard ....Lechlinski had to come back the next week.Shawn was the best.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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bump for mantles
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Bump for my man Shawn...(Curtis)
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana
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For the record..my wife's bum!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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It might not really be that hard - 5.10? - but you're risking a hundred-foot fall doing the mantel on the runout bumpy rock pitch of Jolly Roger. It's around the fifth pitch or so, you can see it just left of the fixed ropes going up to the base of the Heart.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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First, let's go back to a definitive source: Basic Rockcraft. Robbins spells the word as MANTLE. Okay? Enough of that.
Second, and for no particular reason since he was relatively unknown, I believe the "Tony" that Bachar is speaking about when he speaks of Kauk's old friend, Tony is Tony Lynott.
Tony, Blinny and I spent many a day at Castle Rock (Bay Area) setting and struggling on problems. Tony was a master boulderer whose ability to mantle was second-to-none that I had seen. I am not even sure where it came from since his shoulders were not bulging mounds of steel. Castle Rock has many fine mantle problems and Tony mastered them all. He went on to fame and fortune in the art world with his unbelievable stained and etched glass creations and his sculpted rock art. However, along the way he made up a little song that sits in my memory even today. He would sing this while fingering his way up some devilish testpiece:
I like cracks,
Cracks like me,
We get together,
Naturally.
Yea, I know it is childish and makes no sense, but it was fun to listen to him sing it while we squirmed in our boots at the belay.
A while back on another thread Blinny (Mark B.) posted these pictures of Tony doing his Castle Rock creation called The Cartwheel. It involved great balance and sort of an upside-down mantle.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Bachar mentioned Ron Kauk's friend Tony. Yes, he was one great mantler! I remember one time at Castle Rock when Tony was doing laps on the front face mantle, one-handed, a guy wanders up and says "hey! You can get your other hand up there, too!". Cracked me up!
Bruce
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Mikey Waugh has to be one of the best mantle masters that I have seen. In fact I think he is one of the great under rated climbers of our day. He seemed to do it all with perfect ease.
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