Massive rockfall - Waterfall route

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kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Sep 28, 2017 - 12:12pm PT
From Will Stanhope's blog in Oct. 2010:

http://willstanhope.blogspot.com/2010/10/california.html
Jason Kruk and I tried to free the Waterfall route a couple years ago, but turned around in the face of loose rock. A week ago, a giant rockfall obliterated the line we were trying. Often I wonder if the fear I am feeling on routes is justified, or just nervous hocus-pocus. This section of wall is really sketchy, and I think we made the right decision a couple years back.

Will posted this photo:
Heavy on the J

climber
Sep 28, 2017 - 12:15pm PT
@hiker11, to add to nathanael's comment above, there are TONS of other routes in Yosemite that aren't even anywhere close to El Capitan, and many of them would be great routes for someone that's building up towards big wall climbing. She is probably climbing on a totally different rock formation and might not even be aware the the rockfall occurred. Plus cell phone reception is spotty, so she may not get a chance to call until the end of her trip. Lastly, aside from the couple from Great Britain, NPS is reporting all others safely accounted for (can't say for sure how they know that). I'm sure the wait is agonizing for a parent, but just know that the chances of her being in the vicinity are MUCH smaller than what you might assume.

Sincere condolences to the friends and family of the deceased and all involved.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Sep 28, 2017 - 12:20pm PT
It is very unfortunate that this rock fall has caused casualty and injuries. My sincere condolences to all who are involved.

About the daughter, if you still have not heard from her try contacting the climbing ranger. He will be the most likely to know who she was climbing with, or who to ask about where she was climbimg.
I honestly doubt that climbing rangers are aware of the whereabouts or whoiswhos of 90+% of the climbers in the park, unless you are 1) famous, 2) actively engaged with a local crew, or 3) on El Cap which is being monitored by many lenses such as Tom's. So, do not let panic set in if the rangers don't know anything about an individual. I leave my phone on AirPlane mode when I'm in the park because I know reception is extremely spotty and I don't have a compelling reason to be reachable. So, to the dad, I can understand your worries. I hope your daughter will be able to make contact soon.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Sep 28, 2017 - 12:21pm PT
Haven't seen one yet, so here's this
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Sep 28, 2017 - 12:23pm PT
Pete was climbing on El Cap, high on a big wall, and didn't ask to see this event, to see people die. It has to be traumatic. As well as, Pete still had to get to the top, and climbing has to be a bit scary after seeing a piece of El Cap that big come off next to you.
My condolences to the families of the victims of this tragedy.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Sep 28, 2017 - 12:27pm PT
My daughter was climbing in Yosemite yesterday and planning to portaledge last night. We've not heard from her. Can anyone tell me how advanced the waterfall route is? She's been training for her first big wall climb so wouldn't have been on an advanced route.

If it helps, NPS is calling "All People Accounted For" in terms of this event.
https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/news/additional-information-on-rockfall-in-yosemite-national-park.htm
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
Sep 28, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
"a bit scary?" I'd be terrified!
Grant Horner

Trad climber
Castaic, CA
Sep 28, 2017 - 12:47pm PT
Wow. Just did Lurking Fear on Sunday with Tim Klein. Walking up to the base of the Western side of El Capitan in the dark I remarked how glad I was to be hiking on that side—that spooky rock on the far East side looked like it could just cut loose anytime and always gave me the jitters, me being in no way a bigwall hardman.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
Sep 28, 2017 - 01:00pm PT
Wow, scary. Condolences to all involved.

I bailed of Eagle's Way several years ago largely because the looseness on that side of the wall gave me the creeps. I'm sure just about everyone on this forum has walked through the impact zone on their way to the East Buttress.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 28, 2017 - 01:00pm PT
hey there say.... (just saw a few post, about pete's interview)...

as to things that someone may say, or wonder about, on an interview...

also, please understand... just as a kind note...

1-- we all have different brain patterns... some folks naturally
share, by adding WHAT led up to the event-- it keep it in context,
as they explain, who, what, why, 'they are there' and thus,
how the 'what happened' affected them...

i have seen this many times, when helping others that have seen
something awful...

2-- it helps keep facts straight, in their mind, as they are
still actively processing it...

then again:

1--some folks that have another way of brain processing, will fix
in entirely ON the event, and nearly not even think as to 'who they are'
or what is going on, in comparing to WHAT they just saw... it is
such a shock, and they zero in on that instead...


everyone here, knows, at least those that KNOW these folks in person,
well, everyone knows, the utter pain and devastation of the precious
LIFE that all HOLD in there in hands, while climbing...
of course, pete would NOT BE 'enjoying a moment of fame' in such
a wrong way...

i'd think, he rose to the serious occasion of keeping things as straight
as he SAW them, and tell the NEWS (which clearly had quite often misrepresented climbers, in terms, and all the things you folks have
mentinoed here, as to PAST reports-- and thus mentally must have tried to
show what position he was in (first), as a climber, to PORTRAY 'why' he
understood, and was sharing the 'size and fall, and how rare it was to see this' etc,etc,

wheww... i'd have hated to be in his shoes, to do that, and KNOWING all the while that perhaps i have just seen precious human life die...


well, just trying to help make a better 'playing field' here for
everyone, as, it is a very hard things...



we are all different, but-- we all care...

my condolences to the family and loved ones, from this terrible event...



Express

Mountain climber
Vacaville, CA
Sep 28, 2017 - 01:11pm PT
Not sure if this adds to the info or not, but here's a photo I took of the rock fall area just a few months back (June 3,'17). Pretty sure the area that fell is in this shot:


If anyone wants to borrow or mark up the photo, feel free. Condolences to the injured and deceased.
nathanael

climber
CA
Sep 28, 2017 - 01:31pm PT
If you'd like to look at the the rockfall area in pretty high resolution and pseudo-3D check out Google Earth, this link will bring you pretty much to the spot:

https://earth.google.com/web/@37.73111196,-119.62731216,1653.81446518a,383.44109501d,35y,22.8580864h,80.64120534t,0r

Click and drag to move around, shift-click to rotate the camera, and alt-click to zoom.

Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Sep 28, 2017 - 01:35pm PT
My math is often suspect but a large dump truck holds 14 cubic yards.

The big belly dumpers you see hauling around construction sites hold 9 cubic yards. So that's about 66 truckloads of granite.

I can't imagine hiking and looking up to see that headed my way.

RIP
10b4me

Mountain climber
Retired
Sep 28, 2017 - 01:52pm PT
Also above ,Anita posted a photo from Tom Evans. I checked his website and it does not look like he has his Sept 27 report up. Not sure if he still does one everyday or not..

He doesn't.
crberg

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Sep 28, 2017 - 01:53pm PT
What Im curious to see is where Pete and his party are located in some of these pictures. Obviously too tiny to be seen but just the location from where his pictures and video were shot relative to the new scarring.
zBrown

Ice climber
Sep 28, 2017 - 02:05pm PT
just comparing

https://earth.google.com/web/@37.73074499,-119.63222097,1412.34088943a,2083.22525179d,35y,22.8489296h,30.62903631t,-0r

https://earth.google.com/web/@37.73111196,-119.62731216,1653.81446518a,383.44109501d,35y,22.8580864h,80.64120534t,0r
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 28, 2017 - 02:06pm PT
Here is Greg Stock's 2014 thread which described the 2014 and 2010 rockfalls from this same general location, and 2 photos from that thread.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2427078/El-Capitan-rockfall-11-June-2014
It appears the 2017-9-27 rockfall was a tall thin flake between the two yellow circles in the above photo.
No doubt Greg Stock will post an update when he has analyzed the before and after photos.

The 9-28 rockfall (source above the 2014 roof) is much (20x?) larger and no doubt Greg will go up in a helicopter to assess the risk of more coming down from the new source area.

aldude asked which routes are affected.
 East Buttress of El Cap - the normal approach trail goes through the fresh rockfall.
Wall routes:
 Waterfall Route
 Chinese Water Torture
 Get Whacked
 Pressure Cooker
El Cap base routes:
 Champagne on Ice
 Submen
 El Matador
Shultz's Ridge routes:
 The White Zone
 Annette Funicello
 Caught at the Lip
 Gidget Goes to Yosemite
 Crystalline Passage
 Bikini Beach Party
 Hooter Alert
 The Proud Snatch

Obviously tragic for the 2 climbers hit by the rockfall.
Child

Mountain climber
S.L.UT
Sep 28, 2017 - 02:20pm PT
Please do share with us all where exactly it is that you pay to pray. My tithing is ready, I want to join! I'm tired of this helmet!
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 28, 2017 - 02:24pm PT
Not to hate on Pete, but I've known him for over 20 years, he's a shameless self promoter and it's obvious he used the medias interest in this tragic rockfall to spout on national news about how many nights he's spent on El Cap and how many routes he climbed.

Sure he's in a unique Birdseye perspective of the event to be able to do so...but I can't help rolling my eyes at his commentary. Though surely anyone who has spent even a brief amount of time with him couldn't be surprised by it.

I was once interviewed in the Camp 4 parking lot by the San Fransisco news channel back in 98 I think when a climber was killed by the big rockfall off Glacier Point. I was just a kid back then and when she asked me, "How do you justify the risks of climbing when you could get killed by rockfall?"

I recall saying something like "We all take risks getting in our cars and diving down the highway everyday. I'd rather be climbing then driving."

I meant it at the time but in hindsight after watching myself on TV it felt a bit callous and insensitive to the deceased climber, and I regretted doing the interview at all.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Sep 28, 2017 - 02:30pm PT


http://gigapan.com/gigapans/14729
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