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WBraun
climber
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Oct 22, 2016 - 07:33am PT
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I hope he makes it.
It will shut up all these wannabee internet supertopo wankers with their armchair know it all Yosemite trad climbing bullsh!t .....
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 22, 2016 - 08:09am PT
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Adam Ondra wanted to learn big wall climbing and he wanted to climb Dawn Wall. Now he's doing both things at the same time. I think it's as simple as that...
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Oct 22, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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Marlow, to a large degree I agree with you, but I do think there is an additional component.
Black Diamond's reputation has taken a huge hit in the climbing community over the past few years because of equipment quality issues. I'm sure they have lost market share to other companies because of this. Cross this with the fact that the first free ascent of the Dawn Wall was a giant media story, and this current Ondra/Dawn Wall strikes me as a BD PR/Marketing ploy.
There are so many gorgeous routes in the Valley. Now maybe he is so good that none of them would be hard enough to be interesting to him, but I know myself, when I go to a new area with a huge number of classics, that I do as many of them as I can, regardless of the grade.
But everyone is different, maybe this objective is the most exciting thing he can think of to do in Yosemite, and BD's objectives have no connection to it.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 22, 2016 - 09:58am PT
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Why speculate on "Why?"
Just enjoy your popcorn.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 22, 2016 - 10:55am PT
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Phylp
To Ondra and Black Diamond it is a win-win situation. I have no reason to doubt that Ondra is highly motivated to climb Dawn Wall and he is lucky to have a sponsor helping him to realize the dream. And Black Diamond is lucky to get the attention connected to being the sponsor of the best climber on earth at present. To us as customers buying climbing equipment, it is a warning sign when there is a sponsor involved. Though only a warning sign if we want to make informed choices when buying climbing equipment, instead of going with the marketing flow. Valid information can help us make good choices. Marketing can make us stooped...
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Oct 22, 2016 - 11:15am PT
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"It will shut up all these wannabee internet supertopo wankers with their armchair know it all Yosemite trad climbing bullsh!t ....."
What makes you think this is even possible Werner? Come on man! What we dooin out here?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 22, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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Adam Ondra has climbed long, very hard climbs, some with big runouts. For example, Silbergeier, and a 400m 5.14 FA in Madagascar. Those were a number of years ago. On paper, he looks like a much more natural candidate for the Dawn Wall than Kevin Jorgensen did, when he started on the project. All I'm trying to say is that suggesting that this is a marketing stunt is way off base.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 22, 2016 - 11:21am PT
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HUH I GUESS TOMMY AIR JORDAN CALDWELL AINT SO GOOD AT THAT THURR ROCK SCRAMBLINS
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 22, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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Ropes see fixed SO high! Imagine jugging 2000'and then working super hard pitches? Adam does it for breakfast.
Haven't seen him last two days. Watch out tomorrow.
Anita and I say hi from Lay Lady Ledge. South Seas trundled a fifteen foot block this aft!!!
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Stupid Merican
climber
Crankloon, OH
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Oct 22, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
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Anita and I say hi from Lay Lady Ledge.
Hrr, hrr. I see what you did there...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 22, 2016 - 08:02pm PT
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I am really stoked that somebody's jumping on that rig. After the FA, I wondered if anybody would give the free route a real shot. I mean, Tommy's no slouch, I remember seeing him up there alone, working the pitches on a Mini - traxion. And that kind of effort, folks hear about it, and I think it can seem like it's perhaps something that's too specialized, requires too much time and effort.
Yeah, usually these kind of test pieces lay around for years without anybody taking them out on a date.
So proud, all around.
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RyanD
climber
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Oct 22, 2016 - 08:55pm PT
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Some of my friends saw him in the store wearing a harness and hand Jammie's while eating a huge sandwich, one of those really American ones. A hero submarine.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Oct 22, 2016 - 10:45pm PT
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Go go go!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 22, 2016 - 11:09pm PT
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No one has ever on-sited The Nose. Sharma tried it.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 23, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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I'll claim it. And a couple Aussie brothers will claim an on-site NIAD.
All free? Cause that's what we're talking about.
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JohnnyG
climber
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Oct 24, 2016 - 07:07am PT
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This is cool progress update from the BD page. And +1 to what k-man said.
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=adam-ondra-yosemite-updates
“Yesterday was another day on the Dawn Wall. We had our fixed-lines on the top of pitch 10 and we wanted to move as high as possible. But we would face some of the crux pitches of the whole climb. Fortunately, the pitches were better protected and it was not such a big problem to climb through the next five pitches, including the crux traverses. I would like to emphasize that I am not free climbing everything yet. The goal right now is only to go ground-up to the top, free-climbing and using a little bit of aid climbing, to fix the whole line with ropes and start working on the pitches properly to have them ready for the final free push later. So if the crux is around the protection, I just touch the holds to see how the sequence would be and continue. The first crux-pitch looked definitely super hard to free climb. Almost impossible. I will have to take a look at all these razorblades more closely.
“Finally, already in the dark, I was pushing through pitch 16 (Dyno Pitch), but I was stopped by the final bold section of the route, where I felt I needed the light for climbing this tiny layback high above bad protection. So we just called it a day and went down back to Camp 4. Now it’s two days of rest to heal my skin and I will try the Nose.”
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 24, 2016 - 07:12am PT
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Rained all night and still raining now.
The forecast is looking very wet for the rest of the week going into the weekend ....
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 24, 2016 - 12:37pm PT
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Briefly met Adam Ondra and his father as they were in the camp next to me. They just ran up something on Middle Cathedral for their rest day.
Another unrepeated Tommy Caldwell free route is getting some love now too:
https://www.instagram.com/jorgverhoeven/
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