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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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Sep 20, 2016 - 04:04pm PT
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My Friend, Brian Whitlock, was with Kim on the Middle Fork of the Salmon. They left the river and Kim was driving behind Brian when he went off the road and hit a boulder. This was in Lemhi County but I have not been able to get a police report.
Here is Brian's thoughtful post that Kim's friend, Dr. Bruce Hayse shared with me.
"Today, we’re waking up to the sad news that climbing legend, Kim Schmitz, left this world. I didn’t know Kim well, but I feel a great responsibility to let you all know how he lived his final day.
"I spent this past weekend with Kim, Bruce Hayse Hayse and Tim Walther, paddling the famed Middle Fork of the Salmon River. Our last day on the river was the last day of Kim's life. We'll carry that weight — conflicted in sadness and joy — forever.
"Kim’s physical suffering from years of climbing injuries was intense. But on Friday, he climbed into a bush plane and flew into the largest Federal Wilderness in the lower forty-eight States. Kim brought his two walking canes, a tiny Playmate cooler and his giant, yellow dry bag, which Tim Walther nicknamed, “Mission Control”.
"For three days, we paddled one of America’s premiere wild rivers. Kim meditated with Bruce Hayse every morning and every evening. When it rained, Kim raised his face to the drops, when the sun shined, he raised his face to the rays. On Kim’s final Sunday, he was in a sacred space.
"We pulled off the river at sunset, packed up the boats and gave a round of hugs, in celebration of a perfect day. It was the last time we would ever see him.
"Before hearing of Kim’s death, I posted a river photo of that day. The rain had just subsided, leaving crowns of mist around the mountains. Dapples of blue sky cut through, warming our camp. It was captioned, ‘River of no Return’. The irony of that caption is now difficult to face. After some reflection, I think the opposite may be true. Kim did return. He returned to the wild country that forged his exceptional life. An Original Human melting back into the fold of an Original Landscape. Godspeed"
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 20, 2016 - 04:11pm PT
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thankyou
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spectreman
Trad climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 05:29pm PT
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"Before hearing of Kim’s death, I posted a river photo of that day. The rain had just subsided, leaving crowns of mist around the mountains. Dapples of blue sky cut through, warming our camp. It was captioned, ‘River of no Return’. The irony of that caption is now difficult to face. After some reflection, I think the opposite may be true. Kim did return. He returned to the wild country that forged his exceptional life. An Original Human melting back into the fold of an Original Landscape. Godspeed"
Thank you. What a beautiful paragraph.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 05:50pm PT
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Rest easy Kim. . .df
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Dennis Hennek
climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
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A gentle soul, one of the good ones, he will be missed.
.
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Philippe
Trad climber
nederland, co
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Sep 20, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
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How did Galen describe him in his book? "a cross of Captain America and Conan the Barbarian....?"
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Chris Jones
Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
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Sep 20, 2016 - 09:13pm PT
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It was quite something to be in Yosemite in the late 1960s when Kim and his partner Jim Madsen were literally cutting the fabled El Capitan Grade 6s down to size. In some cases halving the times of the previous ascents; and then going right back up on some other fearsome Grade 6. Most of us in Camp 4 were too much in awe of what one might term the “Robbins aura.” We dickered around on the Grade 5s, but El Cap was just a bit too far. Not for Kim and Jim.
A few years later my girlfriend and I shared a house in Squaw Valley with Kim and his then girlfriend plus a few others who came and went. It was then that I got to know Kim. Outwardly so strong and enduring, and inwardly so gentle and thoughtful. Those were golden days, watching the sun fade on the peaks, sharing a meal, quietly talking.
A wonderful man; a well-lived life.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Sep 20, 2016 - 09:46pm PT
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What a shock...out of no where. Just want to say tonight how much I love and value each and every one of my campfire friends. Peace, lynnie
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Sep 20, 2016 - 09:54pm PT
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I was lucky to spend some truly memorable days climbing with Kim in Tuolumne and Joshua Tree. He was indeed a gentle soul with a mystical spirit. My condolences to Kim's friends and family.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:41am PT
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They don't make em that like that everyday!
What a life.
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Sep 21, 2016 - 08:26am PT
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It was last Thursday.
We were stopping by the Tetons on our way back from Canada and a late season trip on the Nahanni.
We were hanging out at Hungry Jacks, Barb visiting with Janna.
I was reading in the car, glanced over at the car pulling in, Kim got out.
We were really glad to see each other. He seemed in fine spirits.
Happy to be heading off on a road trip and to be doing the Salmon.
Said he had had a tough year (as I knew) and showed us his leg (which looked awful).
We talked prostate cancer treatments.
He was thinking of moving to Salt Lake because there wasn't a climbing gym in Jackson.
He was really full of life. Gave us big hugs, saying how we were so much a part of his life.
Then off he headed, west over the Pass.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Sep 21, 2016 - 08:58am PT
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When he talked with me, I felt like the most important person in earth.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Sep 21, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
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Very sad news, and a major loss to our tribe. My condolences to his friends and family. I feel lucky for having had the opportunity to meet him a few times along the way, thanks to Donini and Tackle.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Sep 21, 2016 - 12:59pm PT
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Great photo Bob!
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 21, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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Kim on FA of Zenith
The second ascent was on pitches below them.
This I believe is the only time ever in Yosemite big wall first ascent that two simultaneous parties
(FA team and SA team) are ascending before the actual FA has even topped out.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:52pm PT
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Thank you Mr. Schmitz for showing us how to live with bravery, determination, perseverance and tenderness.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:56pm PT
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Sorry to hear this sad news. I think he did a trip/expedition or two with Ned. Do any of you remember which ones? Was it one of the Karakoram trips?
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Sep 21, 2016 - 11:25pm PT
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Brian
It was the "Karakoram High Route,” 43-day, 300-mile ski traverse.
There's are great story of the end of that trip that involved Galen and Kim.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 22, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
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RIP Didn't know he did the FA of Trango and all that other Karakorum stuff. Anybody have pictures or a link to an article?
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