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rich sims
Trad climber
co
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:00am PT
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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Cool, more photos!
Hey, thanks guys. Nice photo, Mark, and cool location. Neat bit of history too. What else ya got? Rich, where is that wall? Looks like a view.
Double D, I didn’t know that there was an attempt and that you were in on it. Interesting, and nice job on that pitch! It took me quite a while, and that was after the pitch had seen several ascents. It’s a fun pitch that gets your attention. Were there ever any hangers on the ladder bolts above the Devil’s Tower? The bolts were 1/4” thread-heads with a nut and no hanger in 1997.
Correct, Jack Herer. I think it is Native Son in the photo. Good eye.
How about this one?
I’m not sure exactly which routes these are without a guidebook handy (I’ve forgotten), but have an idea. Help us out, modern wall rats.
Name the two routes:
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
You wanted to!
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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Lunar & Bad Sign........I venture.
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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Jan 22, 2010 - 02:28am PT
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Mabey PSD I thought it kinda went up that black streak.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
You wanted to!
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Jan 22, 2010 - 08:19am PT
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Yup.....Surgeon General is right in there someplace, too.
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Double D
climber
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
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Minerals wrote: "Were there ever any hangers on the ladder bolts above the Devil’s Tower? The bolts were 1/4” thread-heads with a nut and no hanger in 1997"
Honestly the only thing I remember was leading most of the pitch in the dark with a headlamp which leads me to think that Mike Borris, AKA "Big Wally" who first scouted the route and had done some of the first pitches, probably drilled the bolt ladder leading up to the knife-blade-fest after the Tower. Otherwise I would have surely remembered drilling all of those bolts. This was also a full year prior to us pioneering the use of 5/16" SS machine bolts for dowels which I would have selected over bolts any day.
Sheba...a short practice aid climb in the Valley
Rapping down to bivi on Sea of Dreams
Dale Bard leading Peregrine Pillar on Sea of Dreams
Hook or Book pendulum on Sea of Dreams (Photo: Jim Bridwell)
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
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I think the guys in red are on PSD. How about the other guys, to the right? Notice the guy on lead, a ways up and right of the belay.
Double D, killer photos! Thanks! Guess you decided to break out the scanner n slides after all. Looks like it was a bit windy in that pic of Dale – nice. Can’t beat the history in those photos! Oooooh, Sheba! Shhhhhh…
I was just wondering if those ladder bolts originally had hangers and then someone swiped ‘em. You led the Kamikaze cracks in the dark, on the FA?!?! Yikes!
Gabe and Ivo on Zodiac, El Cap, 2004
Climbers on The Prow, Washington Column
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 22, 2010 - 05:26pm PT
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Climbing The Ear, May, 1974.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
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Thanks for that Mark. I don't know if I have ever seen a shot of someone in the Ear before!
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
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Jan 22, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
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Awesome stuff thanks and keep it coming !
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Double D
climber
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Jan 22, 2010 - 07:19pm PT
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"I was just wondering if those ladder bolts originally had hangers and then someone swiped ‘em."
No, we were way to poor to leave hanger on ladders.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Jan 25, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
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The guys in minerals far right side el cap photo are on Lunar Eclipse and Bad Seed anchors. You do join lunar onto the pitch below that belay if on PSD.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
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Thanks, Bringmedeath.
OK, how about a few more photos of Tribal Rite to get Mr. Hudon psyched!
Kirk
Looking down the Nose
Lots of air
Leading “The Carrot” – Photo by Tom Evans, 1999
Kirk cleaning “The Carrot”
Kirk and SE Face of El Cap
Mid section of "The RURP Pitch"
Kirk, psyched as usual, cleaning the upper section of "The RURP Pitch"
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Double D
climber
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Jan 26, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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Nice shots of Tribal Rite. Looks like an amazing part of the wall.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 26, 2010 - 02:49am PT
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The two guys in the real wide shot are not on Lunar Eclipse, they are right of that. PSD probably, you can just see the 'Milky Way' pitch on LE in the lower left corner of that photo, right most edge of the grey circle.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 26, 2010 - 02:54am PT
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Here are a few of my own...
"Place of Dead Roads" joining into ZM. Finishing out a 32 hour push. I am finishing out my second big block, both morning blocks, this pitch will wear me out and I have to turn the last 2 over.
"Left Hand of Darkness"
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 26, 2010 - 02:59am PT
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And another two from the Lost in America push
The Badlands
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
You wanted to!
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Jan 26, 2010 - 09:48am PT
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Awesome pics, HoiPolloi!
Lookin' pretty styley there, Bro.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 26, 2010 - 10:18am PT
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Thanks man
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 26, 2010 - 10:22am PT
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Thanks, I don't know if I could get more psyched. It's all I think about.
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