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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 12:29pm PT
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"Chock craft"
I still use the term when I can which is usually trying to describe pulling the right piece the first time to a beginning leader.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 12, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
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Chock craft is a beautiful art, much like any other artful and gratifying use of simple tools like an axe or a knife.
Climbing ethics. Seems like a lot of climbers consider the idea of climbing ethics to be "quaint."
The 1972 Chouinard Catalog contained a call to action around climbing ethics that was an ethical cal to action for many of us and defined the way we looked at climbing and, indeed, even formed a philosophy.
http://climbaz.com/chouinard72/ch_page2.html
Most climbers don't understand the distiction between ethics and style. Style being the way you like to climb that doesn't have any (or at least has very minimal) environmental impact - Do what you want and play the game so it pleases you. Ethics having to do with the environmental impact of your climbing - climb in a way that optimally preserves the environment and minimally impacts the experience for other outdoor user groups.
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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May 12, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
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"Four-finger bag of Dope."
Or is that OT? No IDTSo.
jg
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
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Sierra Cup....
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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May 12, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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^^^^ isn't that a horse race near Placerville?
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 12, 2015 - 04:40pm PT
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Sierra cup? I still use mine. Is that why people call me "Grandpa?" I thought it was 'cuz I have grandkids.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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May 12, 2015 - 05:00pm PT
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Seems the new generation replaced "Up rope" with "Take"
not in my exerience.
'up rope' = take up slack in the rope, usually when TRing or following
'take' = take the weight of my fat ass, so I can 'hangdog' aka hang
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2015 - 09:43am PT
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Well the Yosemite rating system is kind of on it's way out..for some that boulder...Anything under 5.10 does not get the fifth class designation.
For example, it's no longer:
5.9
now it's
.9
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 13, 2015 - 09:51am PT
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It's such a burden staying au courant, isn't it?
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2015 - 09:30am PT
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You don't hear this much anymore:
"Those boots will require a 200 mile break-in period"
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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May 14, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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paul crawford
told me that i've old school
in my blood.
so i entitle myself to
this yesterday quote:
"just go in there,
make a mess.
and then run."
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Cassius
climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 14, 2015 - 05:29pm PT
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Did anyone say "yoyoing" already?
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2015 - 11:38am PT
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Warner said one the other day and now I can't find it....something like:
Piton Pavilion? - wasn't that but the phrase did start with "Piton".
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