All the pitches of the Dawn Wall Project have now gone free!

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le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Jan 4, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
cracks to penetrate / nubs to clench
Brian

climber
California
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
Clint: the topo you posted above, and your count of what is still left, looks like it may slightly understate a couple of pitches above the Dyno/Loop.

Erik's updated topo shows a pitch of 13d before Wino and a pitch of 13a between Wino and the summit (in addition to all the 12 and 11). Minor changes on a route with so much difficulty, but still significant.

Hope things went, or are going, well today!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 4, 2015 - 10:19pm PT
Yeah, the pitch to Wino is 5.13d in Sloan's topo vs. 5.13c in the older topo.
And the 2nd pitch from the top is 5.13a in Sloan's topo vs. 5.12 in the older topo.
Given that these are estimates and the pitches have not been led yet,
I don't think these differences should change any expectations about how hard it will be for the guys to finish.
Hopefully they will make it, and the final topo may have more differences from these project topos.

The BigUpProductions Instagram says they are climbing tonight, on p15 and p16. Plus a photo of a $40k camera with those grey Canon Pro lenses that may not be able to do much at night.... :-)
http://instagram.com/p/xdBFOiuzhz/?modal=true

[Edit to add:]
According to Tom Evans' Day 9 El Cap Report,
Kevin fell at the crux move at the end of p15.
Tommy tried p16 but didn't free it.
Brian

climber
California
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 10:28pm PT
Damn. That a big gun. Guess that's for the "evening" before it actually gets dark.

Hoping for a low gravity evening on pitches 15 and 16!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 5, 2015 - 09:06am PT
Repeating stuff already on other threads:

Day 9. (1/4) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Kevin tried at 6pm but fell on the crux move at the end when the tape came off his fingers.
p16. 5.14a Loop version (first half of old topo pitch) - Tommy led this free, with Kevin belaying.

paraphrased from
http://www.facebook.com/Corey.Rich.Productions
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jan 5, 2015 - 09:09am PT
jesus man i can't imagine
trippin on my dyke with the hole
world watchin.

im ashamed enough when paul Crawford
is holdin my rope.

actually paul Crawford is more audience
than the media's periscope.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 5, 2015 - 10:08am PT
By the way can someone explain what is the giant fixed line that goes way into the woods is for? Is it for the camera crew work?
Not talking about the fixed lines that go all the way up the route, talking about a giant continuous line that must be 1,500 feet or so, at least?

I got to watch them climb a bit this weekend, and it felt kind of like witnessing history in the making. Pretty insane that they are so close to completing it. When I went top roping for my 2nd time in Donner Summit, in 2010 as I remember, Tommy gave a slideshow in which he talked about working on Dawn Wall. Great for him and Kevin to have all this hard work paying off. Hats off.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Jan 5, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
^^^^^^^^^

"Thanks to a 2700 foot long single 9mm rope"

Wow!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jan 6, 2015 - 06:32am PT

Local news headline KSBW8

2 men attempt most difficult climb in world at Yosemite's El Capitan Dawn Wall
UPDATED 6:02 PM PST Jan 05, 2015



NEXT STORY
Missing Salinas girl returns home

Text Size:AAA
Kevin Jorgeson, left, and Tommy Caldwell, right, are climbing El Capitan's Dawn Wall.brettlowell / instagram
VIEW LARGE
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, Calif. —Two men are roughly halfway up what has been called the hardest rock climb in the world: a free climb of a half-mile section of exposed granite in Yosemite National Park.

Tom Evans, a climber and photographer, has been chronicling Kevin Jorgeson. 30, of Santa Rosa, California, and Tommy Caldwell, 36, of Estes Park, Colorado, as they scale their way using only their hands and feet.

El Capitan, the largest monolith of granite in the world, rises more than 3,000 feet above the Yosemite Valley floor.

JORGESON AND THE WALL
Jorgeson and the wall
Kevin Jorgeson and Yosemite's El Capitan Dawn Wall
VIEW LARGE
CLIMBING ROUTE
Climbing route
Kevin Jorgeson
VIEW LARGE
The men eat, stretch and sleep in hanging tents suspended to El Capitan's Dawn Wall. They don't have the creature comforts of home, but they have kept in touch with the outside world thanks to social media --tweeting, posting on Facebook, feeding information for blogs and keeping in touch with a bevy of supporters on the ground.

"The guys are doing great," said Josh Lowell with Big Up Productions, which has been chronicling their climbs for the last six years. "(Monday) they are resting and trying to grow skin back on their fingertips so they can continue to do battle with the hardest climbing sections, which involve grabbing tiny, razor-sharp edges of rock," Lowell said.

If all goes as planned, the duo could be at the top as soon as Friday or Saturday, Lowell said.

"But that's best-case scenario. It could take several more days just to get through the difficult section where they currently are. If any weather moves in, that could also delay things, but the forecast is looking good for now," he said.

Many have climbed Dawn Wall but the pair would be the first to "free climb" the section using ropes only as a safeguard against falls. The first climber reached El Capitan's summit in 1958, and there are roughly 100 routes up to the top.

Evans said the two have a cellphone on their ascent, but they weren't taking calls Monday because they were resting and "want no distractions while on the cliff." The two also weren't answering emails from roughly 1,500 feet above the ground.

These practices may not seem unusual, but the climbers have relied heavily on social media to document their adventure. Both update their Facebook pages regularly and tweet from the Dawn Wall, which has been called "as smooth as alabaster, as steep as the bedroom wall."

Last Friday, Jorgeson hosted a live question-and-answer session from the wall.

Caldwell's wife', Becca, has also been blogging about their trip daily and wrote this post last weekend:

"Being up on the wall for over a week and the hard climbing Tommy and Kevin have done up until now adds an element of difficulty on top of the hard climbing they have to do," she wrote. "Imagine performing your very best after not walking for one week. I know Tommy has made an effort to try and do stretching, pushups, (and) yoga in the (hanging tent) hoping this might combat the unusual circumstances of living like veal between their climbing. So let's hope for big things today. This climb definitely won't be over until it's over, but I believe it's possible. Let's go boys!!!"

Jorgeson tweeted late Saturday about his difficulty scaling one section: "Battling. #dawnwall."

There are 32 sections of the climb. On Sunday night, Lowell said Caldwell, climbing in the dark, completed the last of the three hardest sections of climbing, which was a major breakthrough, Lowell said.

"He still has 1,500 feet of hard, scary climbing ahead, but mentally he is feeling really confident right now, and incredibly excited. (Jorgeson) is extremely close to completing pitch 15, one of the hardest. (Tuesday) he will try to complete it and catch up to Tommy so they can continue forging ahead."

In 1970, Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell (no relation to Tommy Caldwell) climbed Dawn Wall using ropes and countless rivets over 27 days.

The duo prepared for at least six years for the climb, according to friends and their personal websites. John Long, the first person to climb El Capitan in one day in 1975, said he speaks to the climbers several times a day.

"It's almost inconceivable that anyone could do something that continuously difficult," he said Monday, adding that he believes they spent the equivalent of a year's time on the wall in preparation for the climb.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 6, 2015 - 07:00am PT
What a tremendous achievement in climbing.

Hats off.

Brian

climber
California
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 08:07am PT
The story is running in the Guardian as well

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/jan/06/us-climbers-worlds-toughest-rock-climb-yosemite
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Jan 6, 2015 - 08:58am PT
Great comments in the Guardian article. Mick Ryan steps up for the US in the face of the usual Guardianista anti-americanisms.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jan 6, 2015 - 09:13am PT
Difficult to read far into the comments section without succumbing to a deep despair for our species.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
Jan 6, 2015 - 09:28am PT
What's the ultimate goal? Start over and redpoint all pitches in one push? With pre-placed gear? Seems like linking all these pitches into one long route is the hardest part.
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Jan 6, 2015 - 11:21am PT
what's the latest??

so for the loop pitch 16 that Tommy sent, does that somehow avoid/bypass the dyno? i hope Kevin gets pitch 15 today...
Brian

climber
California
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 11:51am PT
Don: redpointing all the pitches in a push is what is happening right now...

Dhayan: that's right. The Loop variation bypasses the Dyno, which Tommy has stuck, but thinks is too low percentage to focus on during this push I guess. Kevin still needs to tick pitch 15 (14+), and either the Dyno (14+) or the Loop (14-) for pitch 16. After the Dyno/Loop, things ease off in relative terms, with (out of order) one more 13d, two 13c, one 13a, and a bunch of 12 and 11 to the top.
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Jan 6, 2015 - 11:58am PT
Thanks, sounds wild... that must be the hardest downclimb in the world... and yet still easier than the dyno! Looks like good weather, maybe even a bit too warm.
Trad

Trad climber
northern CA
Jan 6, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
There's a 7 or 8 minute interview (recorded yesterday) with Tommy and Kevin on today's All Things Considered on NPR. It'll air around 5:20 pm PST, or listen earlier on a station in a different time zone via the magic of the internet (or download the audio file later). It's mostly just them doing a polite job of explaining some climbing basics and the Dawn Wall project to the interviewer and 'general public', but was fun to hear nonetheless.

Link here:
http://www.npr.org/2015/01/06/375357301/free-climbing-yosemites-el-capitan-takes-a-team-and-time
Brian

climber
California
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
Man, I am a keen to follow this story as most folks (as testified by my continued posting to this thread), but the past two days seems like a tipping point in scrutiny.

I hope those guys are not too stressed or occupied with answering questions, whether the questions are good or bad. I'm not complaining about the social media stream or anything like that. How connected they are in their choice, and this is, after all, how they make their living--got to feed the family and all. My concern is that the distractions of NYT and NPR spectators (who, let's face it, are not really that interested at all--it's just the flavor of the moment, or nano-moment) will distract them from the task at hand.

Let the boys send. Interviews after. We can keep up with the progress with Tom's reports. Course, that's all their choice as well, as they can always turn off the cell phone!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 6, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
NYT and NPR spectators (who, let's face it, are not really that interested at all--it's just the flavor of the moment, or nano-moment) will distract them from the task at hand.


Just my opinion, but sitting in a portaledge on El Cap one can't help but focus on the task at hand, and the New York Times is a long, long ways away.

A few minutes to blurb on instagram per day (a few seconds, even) is hardly distracting.
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