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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 14, 2014 - 10:05am PT
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Remember when Doug Robinson suggested everybody just climb to climb and quit recording all of it? That didn't work!
...how do you know?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Sep 14, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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Remember when Doug Robinson suggested everybody just climb to climb and quit recording all of it? That didn't work!
...how do you know?
Ed, it was the entire content of an article by Doug in an early 70s issue of Climbing. I have been trying for some time, here on ST, to get Doug to dig it up for all of us. Timing now is perfect. I'm not sure why the great article about keeping your climbs to yourself has to remain a secret. It sure influenced me back then. It's just part of the history, I would just like to see the article again - maybe without the photo Doug ;>) More than anything for me, it was about actually keeping secrets, but I have failed only slightly there.
Oops. Maybe because of my dyslexia, I was thinking early 70s. It would have had to have been after 1974......late enough to influence even the 80s. If all else fails I will contact the magazine, cause this is all so interesting.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 14, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
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Doug's list of articles in Climbing up through issue 219
Robinson, Doug
A Night on the Ground, A Day in the Open, Book Review (161)140.
Profile (165)78.
“Thou Shalt Not Wreck the Place,” about wilderness & USFS policy (180)80
I'll look them up later...
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go-B
climber
Cling to what is good!
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Sep 14, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 14, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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McHale's Navy - I think you missed Ed's point. The question was not "How do you know Doug said that" it was "How do you know lots of people didn't do amazing things that never were written up in the magazines or guide books".
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Sep 14, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Oh, I see. Obviously it didn't work with everyone. Also, I think I was commenting within the context of the rush to post the history here. Clearly, people have done climbs that have not been recorded.....maybe not so much in Yosemite Valley.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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Clearly, people have done climbs that have not been recorded
One winter day at the turnout a couple friends were gonna do a new one pitch climb.
Said I should come up to it with them.
I wasn't too keen because I figured it would be some leftover pile of junk climb.
Went anyways just for the hell of it.
So we get to the base and they had to do a whole bunch of bong hits, drink some beer and talk a ton smack first.
I got bored waiting so I just free soled the thing before they ever got their sh!t together and left.
Who knows if they ever did it and named it or whatever.
Hahahaha .....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 14, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
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McHales Navy, you might be thinking of the article "The Guidebook Problem," from the '72 or '73 issue of Ascent.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Sep 14, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Sep 14, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
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Ed and bvd, That's not it. Is there a photo with THE GUIDEBOOK PROBLEM? The article I'm talking about had at least one photo of an 'unknown' climbing area.
The GUIDEBOOK article from Ascent sure reads like what I'm thinking of though, but I know there was a photo. I'm pretty sure there was a photo. I will recognize the photo. It's not the photo Wade posted. Of course, if somebody comes up with the photo, that would be antithetical to the philosophy because then we would have to say what is in the photo, and back then it was more unknown, and meant to stay that way! It's the old problem of 'If I tell you then I have to kill you'.
:>)
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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This is good stuff. I reckon there was yet another Mussy galaxy in Camp 4 that hasn't been fully captured as well as the times in Roy's threads.
There's a glaring omission here, though: The women of the 80's.
Lynn really wasn't around the Valley much in the mid 80's--I went to visit John Long and Lynn around 1984 in SoCal, and I recall a discussion about other arenas being more interesting at the time.
A few recollections:
Lydia Painkihler
Mari Gingery
Lydia Bradey
Sue Harrington
Sue Bonovich and another friend who showed up in mid80's. Sue of course went on to become a force in the Yosemite climbing scene.
Maria Cranor
Tami Knight from time to time.
There are a lot of others like Doe DeRoss and the Swiss Miss (whose real name I don't think I ever knew) who might not have been doing a lot of first ascents (and hence not on one of Ed's lists), but were a significant part of the climbing scene back then.
They all have stories. Lydia Painkihler (I don't know if we've spelled her name correctly--wasn't there a "j" in her name?) was an incredible all-around driven climber, and Sue Harrington did some impressive El Cap solos.
Who remembers the other women of the era?
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Sep 15, 2014 - 11:50am PT
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A few more names of notables to add to the list of who made the valley entertaining in the eighties.
Clark Jacobs
Frank Sanders
Ed Sampson
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 15, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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Good call Bob!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Sep 15, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
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I noticed a large number on my list had already been hit in the big list (Jay Anderson was absolutely on that list).
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jstan
climber
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Sep 15, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
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I have a couple. Phil Bircheff and Al Cornell. Two people who can speak intelligently on just about any topic. The kind of people from whom one can learn.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Sep 15, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
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Kevin Fosburg was a badass all around climber.
Jordy Morgan
Cade........
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 15, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
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Moving Over Stone I video
Informative, and formative for most of us of that time.
Lynn Hill-Yosemite, California
Peter Croft-Tuolumne, California
Bobbi Bensman-Smiths Rock, Oregon
Jerry Moffatt-Conyonlands, Utah
Todd Skinner-Buttermilk, Boulders
Stephen Glowacz-The High Country
Dale Bard-The Needles
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 15, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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Ron Carson.... I don't think he went to the YV... the needles- his back yard.
Eddy Joe..... climbed all over.
Eric Ericsson....
Misa Giese... moved out to CO and took up with some dude.
Scott Loomis...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
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yep, everyone's added good folks who really made it a time to remember. Now, if only we had a crystal ball to revisit some of the many hours spent in the parking lot and at the Deli we'd have a stack of stories about that era...
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