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john bald
climber
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Jul 30, 2014 - 12:56pm PT
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Big thanks to Ed Bannister for this thread! Wonderful memories brought back by all the pics from Robs, Henny and Mr ee.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 30, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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Low Pressure with hexes.....classic.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 30, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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Complete with the one danglin' on the rope that fell out at the most inopportune time!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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Jeff beat me to "The Woodpecker Crack!"
I'll dig through some old pics, not sure if the old scanner works on the newer OS.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2014 - 02:42pm PT
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Dave Tapes on Iron Cross. We had a big day that day doing about 12 routes all 5.10-5.11.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
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Anyone remember doing speed ascents of Arcie Farcie?
My records show my best time was 1:38 but Tapes had the best time of :42 seconds.
Yes way.
That thing is WAY harder now.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 30, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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The Woodpecker Crack was never 5.11c on a TR. Leading, the 5.11d rating is one of the biggest sandbags at Suicide. This is before small cams. I thought I made the FA of that with EEEEE, and we kept lowering off (gingerly) funky wires and when we'd bounce test them on the deck they always popped. I finally go antsy and went for it and those greasy lybacky moves off the beveled bunyon at the end were grevious and I was telling EEEEE to watch me else the world was going to end right there.
JL
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DonC
climber
CA
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Jul 30, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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Here's a few oldies.
The Pirate photos are 1968 and Serpentine 1967. The story from my brother is the weekend after Pat Callis and Lee Harrell put up the Serpentine, Lee and my brother did it the next weekend for the 2nd ascent... who knows...
Me on the The Pirate
Hanging belay on The Pirate - scarred me to death with just several Lost Arrows in a vertical crack.
Top of The Pirate
Serpentine
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 30, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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Spencer Lennard's nude ascent of the Sunshine Face...any pics out there? We can only hope not.
Tapes had the best time of :42 seconds Tapes is light.
I finally go antsy and went for it and those greasy lybacky moves off the beveled bunyon at the end were grevious and I was telling EEEEE to watch me else the world was going to end right there.
HoMan. Looking kind of buffed in that picture big man.
Remember the total points days? You'd get the same number of points as each pitch you did was rated, ie, 5.9 = 9, 5.10 = 10, 5.11 = 11. If you ended the day with under 100 points you hadn't climbed. DE reminded me of that. Wonder what the highest day ever is.
Where's E? We need E.
Edit. Thinking about this. C'mon DE, you expect us to believe that? 42 seconds? You can't even run down the route that fast. He must not have pulled on any holds, only used his hands for balance and basically ran up it. That's ridiculous.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 30, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
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Pirate. Did it in 70
The "Hammer Tail piton lizards" kept trying to knock the pins back out.
(the blue bellies would get irritated and make a clicking noise and that became the running joke)
At the end of the crack there's a big chicken head that I lassoed with a sling and clipped the etriers into.
The plan was to end up standing on the chicken head and commence the little bit of free to finish.
When I weighted the sling the knot slowly started to unravel.
Grabbed the chicken head with both hands and didn't fall.
Never trusted a tied sling that wasn't bounce tested since.
Someone was drilling and putting up a new route to the left around the corner from us that day.
Red haired guy?
Valhalla fits the timing.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
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Old prints, I will keep looking for more.
So good to see folks from the late 60's getting on board, when I started in 73, you guys were so bad ass.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 31, 2014 - 01:21am PT
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Insomnia. The bats living in the crack. Anyone get that yet?
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 31, 2014 - 07:09am PT
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 31, 2014 - 08:59am PT
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You just got it, bvb.
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Friend
climber
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Jul 31, 2014 - 09:14am PT
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Love this thread. The vintage tales and photos are so inspiring. thanks guys.
Here's a more recent shot of Rico and DEE EE EEeeeeeEEEe, passing time at Suicide.
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Jul 31, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Jul 31, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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Kironn Kid
Trad climber
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Jul 31, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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Geez, I haven't thot of "Bullwinkle" Jim Rubidoux in decades. I scored my very first rope from him.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Somewhere out there is a pic of Brett Maurer mimicking Lynn Hill
leavitt? Mr. Randall?
post it !
one of the funniest photos ever.
and largo, you could disclose the details of the Kong boulder cover photo…..
well, you could..
sincere thanks
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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