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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 25, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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on a ROAD BLASTED over hang
Ok....well the troller who started this thread and got you all whipped up has never said where that choss heap was with the bolted, saw-cut crack.
It wasn't a road cut but it sure wasn't Ceuse either. Coulda been in his backyard in another country.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 25, 2014 - 10:38pm PT
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It's a shame you don't post more about your climbing Ron. I'd like to see you out there.
I disagree with bolted cracks which take good pro. We don't even know what we're looking at in the op however, so don't get so worked up about it.
As for the org, well local rules apply i guess. Perry's Lieback is the infamous one around here. 8 pitches up the Grand Wall is this beautiful #4-5 camalot lieback. Story is, Chief moved the bolts over from the old bolt ladder becuase his partner threw the bongs off the split pillar.
Most mortals would require at least 4 (i'd want six!) big cams to protect this pitch, and you would never need them otherwise. Most climbers are pretty with the compromise, since just climbing the Grand Wall mostly free at 11a0 is a big day out in and of itself.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Mar 26, 2014 - 11:05am PT
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to sum up: chains of any sort = Rong haz a Sad.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 26, 2014 - 11:21am PT
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 26, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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The troll went thru a sh#t load of work to get a rise out of people. First, he chisels out his own crack (which appears to be a somewhat wasted effort since it looks too shallow to really jam). Second, he bolts this travesty. Third, he posts on the Taco (keeping anonymous of course). Looks like his parents never had the conversation with him about how getting negative attention is bad.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 28, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
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Like the 5.7 bolted crack in Woodfords which i was at last weekend.
Are you talking about the one on Bandit Crag?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Mar 28, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
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Laine
I believe so. It was Bolted in 91 before I even started climbing. I dont believe in bolting cracks but I have used this route as a place to teach new climbers how to place gear on lead and if they have an issue they clip a bolt. I dont condone it but Im not gonna waste my time chopping it... It could use some better anchors though.
Shawn
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Shawn - yea I hear ya. Bandit has some okay routes to finish out the day if you are heading down from Crystal Wall or Deadwood. I agree with you on that route, I wouldn't have placed those bolts but I also wouldn't expend any effort pulling them.
Hope to make it to Woodfest...
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MisterClean
Ice climber
Northern Eastside Malibu
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Your balls have recoiled into your body and the sack is now empty.
and the best insult award goes too....
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john hansen
climber
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Apr 26, 2014 - 11:43pm PT
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I think you need a battery powered De Walt grinder with a 4 inch diamond blade. It will "clean it up " much faster.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 27, 2014 - 12:19am PT
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Jack on one of the best unbolted cracks in Spearfish Canyon.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 27, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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The best bolted crack in CA is the OW pitch on the Rostrum
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 27, 2014 - 12:42am PT
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LACOMS!
(laughed and choked on my spit)
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