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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Keeping an eye on this one.
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apogee
climber
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Keep on keepin' an eye until about September...
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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any info? thinking of warming up on dana and north peak this weekend
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10b4me
Boulder climber
The End Is Near Retirement Home
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both those should be ok, although there might be more neve than ice.
btw, the Checkered Demon looks like it is melted out.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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man, it was brutal up there the other day!
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
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Wow, that just blows my mind that in a year that the Sierra snow pack was 143% of normal, that Ice Nine and Right Mendel are already melted out. Nice up close pictures though, thank you for the update.
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crøtch
climber
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Checkered Demon is melted out.
Kindergarten Couloir is holding snow from bottom to top.
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:21am PT
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Anybody know how North Peak or V notch is looking right now? Thanks!
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
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bump
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Brian
climber
California
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Aug 19, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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Chief,
Thanks for saving me the hike over Lamarck Col!
Brian
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 26, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
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Anyone head up the U/V notches? How do these look? Would they be in decent shape, in yer opinion, in a week? Anywhere else that is? Looking to do my first sierra coulior this season, any ideas help! Thanks!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 26, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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Saw some pics of the Kindergarten Couloir (left chute on Checkered Demon) from earlier this month -- looked good. Only did it once in 2005, but it seemed about the same steepness as the Dana Couloir. I'd probably give it another several weeks though.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Aug 26, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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The Chief - THANKS for the pics of Mendel right and ice nine in your 8/5/10 post.
I've done the both routes on Mendel a bunch of times and seen them more diminished each time (gave up on the right side years ago). Never, ever have I seen them so melted out and so grim as in your pictures. Very, very sad. You've squelched my thoughts about trying to convince someone to do ice nine with me this year. Dang it, but thanks.
CURRENT CONDITIONS??
In another thread, I recently posted some pics and a TR from N Pk, Dana, and U Notch from 3 weeks ago (8/3-5/10). My observations of the conditions back then:
N Peak – fun styrofoam snow with some ice.
Dana – sloppy snow over old ice with some rock debris already making its appearance.
U Notch – soft, almost sloppy snow with some ice up high in the couloir – lots and lots of loose rocks ready to launch.
Conditions are perhaps now better and more icy than then. Probably getting better as the season progresses. Hit them before the sun shines on 'em and have a good time. Helmet and good luck suggested.
Another observation: hiked the sunny north couloir (original route) on Mt. Abbot (13,704') on 8/16/10. Ski poles and approach shoes were adequate for the relatively mellow suncupped snow. Party of 2 who came up as I was descending used their crampons and axes.
With last winter's decent snowfall, it's amazing to see Mendel so dry in The Chief's pictures. Dang.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Aug 27, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
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Though I don't think this is one of the classic Sierra couloirs, here are a couple of Mt. Abbot pics showing the snow (not ice) conditions from 8/16/10:
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Aug 27, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
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did the Feather Peak Coulior on 8.26.10
Doug
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 27, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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Beautiful shots Doug !
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 17, 2010 - 01:32am PT
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Soloed the Dana Couloir this morning -
Bergschrund is open, but there was a good snowbridge on the right hand side. The ice now stretches all the way across the couloir, but less so on the left. Beautiful textured ice, clear as glass in some places.
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superbum
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Any up to date info on Feather?
Or any other Sierra Ice?
Let's keep the beta buoyant!
vic
10-02-10
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