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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Dec 25, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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Good one Banquo, do you know this one?
I don't think so but perhaps I've seen it from another perspective. Oak scrub so lower elevation and probably poison oak. Perhaps something on the SJ River?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Dec 25, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
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Yeah on the San Joaquin, taken from Mammoth Pools.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 25, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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Gotta come up this summer justin! I'd be happy to show ya around!!
Edit: Merry Christmas Nemesis! Your contribution here is ever valued! Lol
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 25, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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I climbed the Black Dyke to Bellygood with Peder in summer of 77 and neither of us had much more than a year of climbing experience and were totally out of our league.
The Dyke had probably only had half dozen ascents and it's reputation was made all the more fearsome by Smaill's classic description;
"If you smile on tipped off blades in prying horror stories and 40 foot lead outs free off cliffhangers on prayers, you'll be laughing when you pull on to the summit. An exceptionally fine route anywhere…."
We dragged way too much gear and no where near enough water out of the jungle and up over the rope schralping roofs to an obligatory hammock bivi.
It was scorching hot and we ran out of water by the middle of the next day and were totally parched
I ran the last two pitches together to produce mammoth rope drag for the last bit of free on to Bellygood.
What an epic!
A couple years later, Daryll and I did the first one day ascent of the whole Dyke.
My most cherished memory of Daryl was us riding bicycles by headlamp down Hwy 99 from No Name Rd to the Chief with Daryl cackling, "Beckham, Your Light!"
Now the Dyke's a bolted free climb and probably no worse an outing for it.
If you climb in Squamish, you've got to love dykes.
Merci Me, Black Dyke, Cerberus, Chasin' Rainbows to name a few.
And by the way, Nemesis, you're a class act.
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LEG
climber
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Dec 25, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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traveler dike hiking
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MH2
climber
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Dec 25, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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I don't think those are dikes at the Leap. More like tree rings of the planet.
Carrying forward to this page:
We dragged way too much gear and no where near enough water out of the jungle and up over the rope schralping roofs to an obligatory hammock bivi.
It was scorching hot and we ran out of water by the middle of the next day and were totally parched
I ran the last two pitches together to produce mammoth rope drag for the last bit of free on to Bellygood.
What an epic!
~ Chief
The Black Dyke, not forgetting the part of it on Lower Malemute or the part that crosses the trail to the First Summit, is a major Squamish feature. Not being an aider I only looked at the Black Dyke until Stairway to Heaven got published. Then I did the last pitch a few times. The Upper Black Dyke long had a reputation for looseness. Someone took a fall up there and busted an ankle, I think. With something like that in mind, the first time up there we departed from the dyke after the first pitch, for another dyke system off to the right. Those dykes, very unlike the Black Dyke, are now-you-see-them-now-you-don't. Given the spacing between bolts, it wasn't completely obvious which features to follow. I remember the sudden thought that maybe we had got things wrong and it wasn't the scary Black Dyke regular Upper where the accident had happened.
Later we heard that the Upper Black Dyke had been cleaned up. I've been up it a couple times. It should be handled with care.
On with the theme
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 25, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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What a stupid thread. You purposely make the title controversial(especially in light of the recent gay "marriage" news) and then end your post with, "Let's keep it PC"?
You're an idiot.
I think you might have read a little too much into that one Nemesis. Reading the title, it never even crossed my mind that the thread could be a pun directed toward homosexuals. I think you have some self loathing and bigotry issues that need to be worked out in your twisted head.
Merry Christmas... idiot!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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Woah, some awesome Pics everyone. Really stoked to see the things people have shared here, thanks so much. Justin you should try & make it up here for some dyke hiking sometime, between Mike & myself & our friends we'd keep u busy for sure- rain or shine. Actually same goes for the rest of ya's that aren't already in the neighborhood (minus nemesis of course although I am kind of proud of it for posting to a climbing thread).
Andy, what a great sequence of same time/different climb!
Cool story Perry, was there any bolts on the BD when u guys first did it or did Matt M put those all in for the "freeclimbing"?? I've done the upper black dyke & it was interesting, a waterfall thru the roof @ the first crux & a nice melon sized wasp nest right beside the bolt @ the tech crux up higher lol. What a neat feature.
Anybody ever get on Rock loggers or Mouse in a bottle @ the base of tantalus? Both gems & footwork testpieces for sure!
Merry Xmas everyone.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Dec 25, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
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I would love to go up to Squamish and get the tour, Mike and Ryan. Thanks for the offer, might be able to do it this year. I can't start climbing till May (shoulder torn labrum) so next year might be better. That way I have time to get some endurance back. You guys are always welcome to the Shuteye tour.
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MH2
climber
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Dec 25, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Not done with Tantalus.
edit: photo by B. Baggio
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Einstein
climber
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Dec 25, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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dyke 2 (dk) also dike
n. Offensive Slang
Used as a disparaging term for a lesbian.
Yeah, and he didn't mean anything by it when he put "(on topic)" in the title.
Nemesis had a point.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 26, 2013 - 01:34am PT
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This is Zebra Wall, up the lake. Three great dykes and two hard face routes.
Here's an easy route which I put up on Jungle Slabs this summer. It's a traverse, called "On Safari" if climbed from left to right, and "Irafas No" if done right to left. :) I climbed it as a roped solo, bolting on lead. Fun, fun!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Dec 26, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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Einstein probably IS Nemesis.
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bob
climber
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Dec 26, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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There are some great photos on this thread. Thanks everyone!
I'll mention the dike on Fairview Dome that spans its entirety. Something like 14 pitches. Pretty cool feature. Separation Anxiety
Happy Holidays Tacos
Bob J
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 26, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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Cody Ice climbing last year, some amazing crystal dike features
the vertical white features aren't snow, they're crystal dikes!
here is a sample I retrieved... the stuff doesn't stay put for long after the surfaces are exposed.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 26, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
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^^^
Could be, but I wouldn't expect largish crystalline quartz in an aqueous deposition. Then again, I'm an engineer not a geologist...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 26, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Been a while (10 years already?!) but Total Soul at Darrington has a cool dike feature on the lower half. It becomes a funky podded crack in places, and is the one out-of-character pitch on the route (it's essenatilly a low angle slab smearing route but this pitch climbs more like crack and face)
Photos linked from the web, mtnproj etc:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 26, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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I'm pretty sure these aren't dykes but they are pretty cool, I think.
Near Mt Fitzroy, very near.
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