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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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We use these guys now.
A lot of the times they seem appear in our rear view mirror when we do don't really want them there (speeding). :-)
But sometimes they are really appreaciated ......
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Apr 11, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
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Best thread I've read in a long time. Thanks everyone!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 31, 2014 - 09:21am PT
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New Years bump is this stuff the frosted flakes?
great!
BUmP
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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... the Japanese on the Nose... The way it played out was the leader got to the anchor right near the top and was not involved in a fall nor was hanging in space. He clipped the anchor with his gear sling only and then slumped onto it. It was speculated that his partner, the one under the tarp (I'm pretty sure to positive there was no portaledge) may have even jugged up the line, inadvertently "hanging" his partner in the process. He was probably toast before the jugging is the thought on that one. Me and Bill Russell were the pluckers on that one, with Werner being cargo net guy.
Edit: It is all coming back to me now... his partner did jug all the way up to the leader, on his neck basically, and brought the tarp with him. They were both under it and died there. I remember driving down the valley to check it out with some people at the time-- the tarp easily visible way up there.
Had always thought the cold had done them in, but appreciate Russ's attention to detail.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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ugh I am glad I came back here to this thread. That post about the Japanese climbers not freezing but one doing the other in is a harsh happy new year. And following my frosted flakes crack is super Topo inappropriate and that is unfortunate.
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WBraun
climber
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That first Japanese fatality on the Nose years ago wasn't even known at first.
The original rescue started from a call for hep by Edward Drummond on the North American wall.
He was soloing and was hit by a huge winter storm near the top.
"I learned to ask for help on North America Wall on El Capitan.
I was attempting to make the first solo of this route and after fourteen days, and three pitches from the summit,
I got trapped in a terrible storm. My portaledge slowly filled with meltwater. Then eventually,
I farted, and it was cold air that came out of me. Deep inside the furnace had been turned off, and I was going to die.
Then a rescuer appeared and they brought me back to the top. It felt like I’d been brought back from the brink." Anyways they flew me and Shipley on the first flight to size up Edward.
As we flew by the top of the Nose towards the NA wall the Japaneses came into view.
I first thought they were waving at us with that tarp flapping in the wind.
The pilot hovered in closer and we could see there was no sign of life just two frozen bodies attached to the summit anchors.
So we just left them hanging there until the next day because Edward was alive and became the priority.
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