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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
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There are so many untapped crags it is crazy.....but you have to explore. I for one would love a trail from the right side all the way along the base of Patterson Rt because I HATE PO!
My last experience was cleaning a route on Million Dollar Mile from a cave up the entering wall. My budy and I (for some stupid reason) did not realize the vines we were pulling were dormant PO. We both looked like the Elephant Man. I had it from my ears to my toes and EVERYWHERE in between. I had to take off work for 3 weeks. Hate that stuff.
I am hoping this post will not only raise interest to create such trails but bring to light the real hardcore guys who pioneered this area. I get the honor of seeing Martzen and Haymond almost weekly at the gym and hearing their stories. It would be nice for them all to be memorialized here, a guide book or some place so nothing gets forgotten about such an amazing place. A group effort presentation and slide show would be so cool(just an idea).
If anyone knows some of the FAs personally that have not been notified about this gathering of beta, shoot them an email or call so they can pitch in and get the props and respect they deserve.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Good thing it's a long drive from here....or that crag would be grid bolted!
One of the ironies of its location is that even though Patterson Bluff Left is visible on my way home, and very near as the crow flies, it takes me almost as long to drive to the base (and longer to get to the base of most climbs) than it does to get to the Valley! Much as I detest dodging poison oak, I realize that remoteness protects solitude. Patterson Bluff is one of the few large climbing areas in California, of which I am aware, where climbing feels the way it did in Yosemite 45 years ago.
Long live adventure!
John
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Even if there is a trail I think the drive around Pine Flat will weed out the weak. It's the only place I've made myself car sick (borrowing my dad's old Porche might have contributed). I just hate PO with a passion!
David, Saturday looks much nicer that Friday, just sayin ;-)
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
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Dan, you made me laugh out loud making yourself car sick...hahaha. If my plans change for Sat I will let you know for sure.
I am still confused as to the location of the 'Back Wall'. Is it left of the main bluff? Anyone?
Clint, The rap from the reflectors I believe is to the top of the tallest of three pillars not the left one. I could be wrong but that's how I read the email Paul sent. Paul?
And, Pablo's Cruise continues up and left following that obvious line/gully/crack/dyke thing from the top of the 3rd tallest pillar. It doesn't go up face. Tks again for combining all of this. I would have just printed out what people were writing and thrown it in my big binder. This is much cleaner.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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Found these on widefetish posted by Jaybro in March 2010.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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More photos are always better.
It is a long drive around the reservour.... the wife and two kids wanted to kill me for taking a little detour.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Guy - very nice. I used your first photo for an overlay already.
Davey,
Thanks for the corrections on the Road Gold locations - I'll fix it tonight.
I am still confused as to the location of the 'Back Wall'. Is it left of the main bluff? Anyone? It's just left of "Patterson Left", just left of The Sun Also Rises.
It's labelled on Dick Leversee's black&white overlay.
I'll label it on the satellite view overlay tonight.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Clint.... thank you for putting in the legwork.
There is more up canyon .... I'll try to dig up some photos I took of a formation that looked like more than one pitch....
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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I have not found my topos and notes yet, but I am looking through some slides and found a couple of Mr. Big on a 3 or 4 pitch route we did to the left of Sunset Buttress. I will post them when I get them scanned.
Looking at the photos, I am thinking that Scary Monsters is the left leaning center crack on the Blob. Crescent Crack is the left crack on The Blob, as Clint deduced.
Safety Dance, on Down Under Dome was about a 10b slab with 3 bolts in about 70 feet. (from vague memory) Myself and Bob Simmons. There are other easy routes on Down Under Dome, but I can't remember much.
The FL of Big Schwaaa was Mike Latendresse. Will probably have to come up with a more specific name for that gorge, as there are several spectacular gorges in the immediate vicinity. Maybe just Big Schwaaa Gorge?
Antenna Rock is correctly located, near Road Gold where the road turns from the Dinkey drainage to the NFork Kings drainage.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Paul.
I'll make an overlay using your nice photo and that should confirm if I understand where things are.
It sounds like my current overlay has a red line where Scary Monsters is (center crack leaning left),
and Crescent Crack on the left arches to the right.
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Bluff: "presenting a bold and nearly perpendicular front".
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Hole encyopedic reservoir of useful information, Batman!
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Morning All, heres some pix of Patterson back in the spring of 2011 when amy and i went to this beautiful place.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Clint, list is looking really good. Tks for all the work.
The topos for a lot of Patterson Left are posted on line. Do we want to include those? I have copies that I can post up when I get a chance if wanted. Anyone?
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