Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
|
I was in El Potrero Chico a month ago, one week after the mass murder. All I can say is that everything felt totally mellow... and the routes were awesome. I've climbed in many places, and this rated near the top.
With respect to area's the total commitment to a sportclimbing ethic, you are either all in, or the place will feel very weird. Finally, though I admit being somewhat puzzled by Ed's unique belay ledge, 1)from an environmental point of view it totally irrelevant, 2) from an wilderness ethics POV, no more damaging than any other two bolts in the rock, and 3)from a climbing area ethical POV, it's borderline, because while it will theoretically make the rapel stance safer, it's mostly about confort and convenience.
But then again, so much at El Potrero (like Red River Gorge) is about engineering for the climber's pleasure, safety, and confort. As I said before, it either appeals to you or it doesn't. While I remain a gunkie at heart and still love trad climbing, it's hard to deny the pure pleasure of doing an awesome, hard, 1000' route with nothing more than a rack of quick draws. Here's to variety and choices!
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
|
That thing looks kind of small and uncomfortable. If your gonna build something do it right ;)
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
|
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
|
And for goodness sakes drill a nice pipe at the stance too.
|
|
Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2013 - 12:46am PT
|
The pipe drilled into the rock is at the bottom of the route. I'll post a photo soon!!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!