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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Alan Kearney, in his North Cascades Select guidebook, alleges that Washington climbers in the 50s or 60s used "plumber's helpers" (adjustable lengths of pipe) to protect wide cracks and that these were the true forerunners of modern tube chocks.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Interesting. Leif at least had considerable contact with Seattle climbers in the early to mid 1960s, and might have heard something. But then, the history of climbers cramming all sorts of odd objects into cracks goes much further back. The bicycle crank in Llanberis Pass in the 1930s, probably stuff in the Dolomites even earlier.
When Pipeline was done in 1966, the cliff it's on was informally known as the Squaw. The other subsidiary crags at Squamish are the Papoose and the Malemute, a bit of a theme. Anyway, the cliff was renamed Slhanay a few years ago, that being considered a more acceptable term by Squamish's First People. I don't know if it's an official name with the CPCGN.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Anyway, the cliff was renamed Slhanay a few years ago, that being considered a more acceptable term by Squamish's First People. I don't know if it's an official name with the CPCGN. It's not official.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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The new name for the Squaw is bogus, I wonder who the hell came up with it?
We are definitely going to die of political correctness.
Reminds me of a quote attributed to the late Sam Kinnison; "The only reason she (a prominent African American actress who starred in the Color Purple) became famous was because the whole world decided not to hurt her feelings.
Back to wide cracks.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Are we supposed to call it "First Peoples' Summer" now?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Chief wrote: The new name for the Squaw is bogus, I wonder who the hell came up with it? "The Chief" newspaper for June 6, 2008, quotes Kevin McLane aqs saying, "I suggested to Donna [Billy, of the Squamish Nation] about a year ago that if Squamish Nation wanted to choose a new name, I could get it established with BC Parks and the district and make sure it appeared in future climbing guide." They chose Slhanay. The paper also says, "The Squaw word has rankled with Squamish Nation for many years, and as a result it dropped off the map as far as government was concerned."
Neither Slhanay nor the Squaw is an official name. Nor, for that matter, are the Malemute or Papoose.
I have no idea how widely, if at all, Kevin consulted within the climbing community.
Back to wide chocks....
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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I have no idea how widely, if at all, Kevin consulted within the climbing community.
As much as usual.
If were going to quit using the term squaw, then let's sh#t can the term Indian (as in Indian Summer or Cowboys and Indians) cause we're no where near India and my Cokum ate beavertails not chapattis.
Back to Pipeloads
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Squaw" is in any case probably an Algonquian word, not found in Coast Salish or any other local language here.
It's also the word for woman in the Chinook jargon, which WAS used here extensively locally for something like 200 years. It was taken from Algonquian for Chinook, true, but every other word in that made-up language was also taken from other languages - Cree, Salish, English, French, you name it. Chinook had an extremely successful run of things but is almost vanished now.
Klahowya tillikum!
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skykilo
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Thanks for the story Tricouni, I loved it.
And nice work on the FFSA, Grug.
I could barely haul myself up that thing with a VG9 and I was feeling it for days after that. I need to jump on it again; my scabs are gone now anyway. Long sleeves next time for sure.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I had no idea that Drew was also a philologist, but shouldn't be surprised. :-)
Use of the loan-word "squaw" in an introduced trade jargon didn't make it a word that was part of the local languages.
What's a "VG9", and who is our new friend skykilo?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Revisionists!
Exactly!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Antidisestablishmentarianists!
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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VG9 would be the Valley Giant cam, Anders.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I guess I'm wrong about squaw being in Chinook jargon, I always figured it was part of the family grouping
Chief, squaw, papoose, malemute = dad, mom, baby and dog
So are they gonna change the names of the Malemute and the Papoose too? Cause those aren't Salish either.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The toponymy being what it is, it may depend on whether anyone gets a bee in his/her/its bonnet. Presumably if the Squamish First People suggested that the Papoose and Malemute be informally renamed with Coast Salish words equivalent to "child" and "dog", no one would mind. Somehow I doubt that the CPCGN would bother making them official, and whether the names would catch on with climbers is an open question.
It is kind of fun watching climbers, especially the PC variety, wrestling with whether they should say "Slhanay" or "Squaw" - you can almost see the gears turning.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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It all amounts to lot of careful posturing around the "R" word.
Racism is alive and well in Canada. Our society attempts to assuage guilt for past injustice with mismanaged federal funding for aboriginals while big business and unscrupulous band leaders profit from self serving collusion disguised as "First Nation Partnerships". Somehow when aboriginals kill otter, fall old growth trees and sell salmon from the back of pick up trucks it's OK. The renaming of The Squaw is more "whitewash" and aboriginals have proven they're no better at taking care of the land then the honkies.
Take a drive down East Hastings for a clear perspective.
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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I withdrew a post regarding the hypocrisy of first nations behavior earlier today. Chief you can add poaching of Bald Eagles for "ceremonial" uses to that list. I made a trip from Hartley Bay to Bella Bella in 2005 and learned much about the self imposed first nations condition, and in particular how the youth in these communities suffer the most from the questionable wisdom of the elders futile efforts to preserve their culture.
Give up the whinning first nations and integrate yourselves into society like the rest of the immigrants whom are lining up to enter this country.
yes i'm in a bitchy mood this week.
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