Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2009 - 10:14am PT
|
SC couldn't have said it better. Peary is one of the most impressive people I have had the pleasure to meet in my 5 decades of climbing.
|
|
Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
|
This photo clearly demonstrates that it was the first ascent party, Baldwin and Cooper in 1961 that dropped the ball on this issue.
They completely avoided the natural feature which is now called "Perrys Lieback". Not to mention Baldwin Cooper also created 2 or 3 pitches of bolt ladder right past Merci Me down lower, a 5.8 low angle face climbing section.
By moving this upper section of the bolt ladder to the left, which had a limited lifespan anyways, Perry eliminated the "Atrocity defined" which was actually created by Baldwin and Cooper and added a bit more free climbing.
In this photo, Tim McAllister is on Perry's Lieback, Grandwall, Squamish. The belayer is at the original bolt ladder, well one of them anyways. You can see how tantalizingly close, but oh so far away the original bolts were. Pretty easy to justify the remedy which was taken I'd say. The amount of climbing in question is about 3% of the entire route. Maybe that gives some perspective.
Anyone considering chopping bolts on Grandwall, would also have to chop all of Baldwins and Coopers original, bolt ladders lower down on the route as well, to fully satisfy their own narrow minded ethical requirements.
Oh and my fighting days are over so count me out of the ruckus in that department ...
Maybe some apologies are in order instead ?
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 28, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
|
Did anyone happen to read this post - made 48 hours after the OP?
----------------------------------------
Jun 7, 2003, 02:25pm PT
Author:
Hardman Knott
Just wanted to say that in retrospect, "Atrocity" seems way
out of line -- sorry to anyone I might have offended.
I posted the link before really looking into the circumstances.
Ignorance is not always blissful.
Just think, with one click of the edit button, I could delete
this entire thread, and all blatent evidence of my naivete'...
(moving the trigger finger across the keyboard)
Ahh, I'm savoring the immense power of censorship!
Hardman Knott
------------------------------
While this thread provided much entertainment (as originally intended), it also provided some great info, especially from Anders.
Hope everyone is enjoying the great weather. I most certainly am...
|
|
Chief
climber
|
|
|
Jun 28, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
|
Thanks for the kind words and support after my somewhat cathartic rant about this way too old, much too flogged subject. If I've learned anything in my half century it's that it's real easy to fly off the handle on limited information viewed through a narrow and flawed paradigm. We climbers love rigid belief systems that support or rationalize our behaviour and lifestyles. It's important to try to walk around the compass a bit and to imagine the view from someone else shoes.
I've also learned the hard way that we communicate differently and not necessarily for the better on the internet. Grammar, syntax and basic coherence seems to go out the window for the whole world to see. I think we could make these forums a lot better by making an effort to recognize the lasting power of the written word and to be more careful with our choice of words.
I apologize to all who may have taken umbrage at the "knuckle sandwich comment". It definitely wasn't directed at my longtime hero Werner Braun but more at the mindset being expressed in the bolt chopping road trip comments. Frankly, I'd rather offer a visitor some route info, a cold beer or a dry place to stay.
Squamish and the Yosemite Valley climbing history and culture are
very strongly connected and the traditions of great climbers from both areas are alive and well in Squamish today. We have always welcomed and applauded the successes of our visiting Valley guests. Royal Robbins, Bill Price, Hugh Herr, Chris Sharma and many other great Valley climbers have contributed to the character and traditions we uphold.
In closing, after looking at the original photo that stirred the ruckus, I can understand that if that was the only information I had on that pitch, and I hadn't learned some hard lessons already, well... I might fly off the handle and spew a bit.
The fact is that you'd probably need a half dozen #5 and #6 Camalots to lead it without bolts and it would be burly 11+, sporty, righteous and many of today's climbers would hike it and declare it fluff. I won't be one of them in this lifetime.
Thanks for letting me share, peace and good cragging to all.
Perry
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 28, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
|
Perry - it's awesome to hear from the FFA-ist himself
(better late than never - LOL).
Your contributions are much appreciated.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!