Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2006 - 06:56pm PT
|
Perhaps we need a new thread, for "music" we love to hate? Except that even thinking about it, let alone naming it, inserts it into one's head. The horror! The horror!
They play syrupy classical music at malls, to drive away the unwanted. There may be possibilities...
Anders
Edit: Remember what they did to Noriega in Panama. Deafening heavy metal (is there any other kind?) supposedly drove him to surrender. Though perhaps the guards were just boys from the 'hood, listening to a few tunes.
|
|
blackbird
Trad climber
the south
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2006 - 07:08pm PT
|
Anders, it isn't the music at the malls that drives me away, it's the malls themselves... ugh! cold chills...
Lead on; I'm chock full of ridiculous kid songs...
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2006 - 07:15pm PT
|
I plead the fifth, and refuse to name names. That's one cat that doesn't need to be let out of its bag.
Anders
|
|
blackbird
Trad climber
the south
|
|
|
Jun 25, 2006 - 08:00pm PT
|
I concur!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jun 26, 2006 - 12:52am PT
|
Ed is right. Possibly some tunes would be dangerous - they might drive someone to distraction, or worse, perhaps in an untimely fashion. I guess it depends on the circumstances.
We have strayed into musical tactics, although the end remains the same. Has there ever been a ST thread on the drum bunnies and their anti-social activities? Enough to drive anyone to distraction. Though not likely to be of practical application to seconds in most situations.
Anders
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
I've finally found a photo of the "slack Merced tyrolean" trick, from April 1977. It was taken on the return trip, after the soggy followers tightened up the system. On the trip over, the rope was significantly lower.
All good clean fun. So to speak.
Anders
ps Not sure who the traverser is. Maybe Ric LeDuc.
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2006 - 08:40am PT
|
IF you guys don't get off this music thing, I may find a hosting site and start puting up extreme sappy kiddie tune variations.
And I Can write a tune or a variation that you can't get out of your head without buying the antidote, as one person who shall remain anonymous likes to say.
Now back to screwing the second.
Here is a particulary insidious thing to do:
You are on a new route. You get to a place that you can't possibly climb though. so before you aid though it, you put a little chalk on some insanely unusable 'feature', and then you do NOT tell the second what you did.
When the second gets to this part of the climb, he will spend a while trying to use the impossible 'hold' with chalk on it, andn finally give up, wondering just what sort of god you are to climb on the impossible then requires aid for mere mortals.
When the second finally reaches the belay, complaining about the difficult section, you just casually say, " Oh, I aided that part.".
The only problem with this ploy is htat you need chalk, and I don't have any. I didn't do this trick, it was done to me, hehe.
Maybe I wrote about it before, Oh well, it's worth telling again.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
boulder county
|
|
Little Curt, on a day when he was being particularly reckless, was playing in the backyard one morning. Soon, some honeybees started swirling around, annoying little Curt. He began stomping on them in his temper. His father caught him trampling the honeybees, and after a brief moment of thought said, "That's it! No honey for you for one month!"
Later that afternoon, Curt happened upon some butterflies, and soon started catching them and crushing them under his feet. His father again caught him, and after a brief moment of thought, said, "No butter for you for one month!"
Early that evening, Curt's mother was cooking dinner, and got jumpy when cockroaches started scurrying around the kitchen floor.
She began stomping on them one by one until all the cockroaches were dead. Curt's mother looked up to find Curt and his father standing there watching her. To which Curt said,
"Are you going to tell her, daddy, or should I?"
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
In the mid seventies I climbed the Prow with Barb Eastman. We were carrying most of the recommended iron and I started up the third pitch loaded up with angles, big and small. I reached up off the belay and slid a big one snugly into a well worn groove. It was solid enough without hammering that I clipped directly into the eye and stepped gingerly on up. Second verse same as the first all the way up the pitch. I had the iron and left every hand placed piton behind. Once I got to the station and traded signals, I had a chance to look down and take in the situation. I grinned ear to ear and waited for Barb to leave the lower stance and start cleaning. "I ah, wouldn't lean back if I was you" I said innocently enough. Barb instantly got my drift and stayed smooth and flat to the wall while jugging lest the hardware come raining down in quantity and short order. She really did nothing to deserve the strange anxiety and peril but it persisted for the rest of my leads.
|
|
Jello
Social climber
No Ut
|
|
Steve- wish we had had the chance to climb together...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Let's make a point of it. Believe me, I have nothing but admiration and respect for what you are about and we might actually get something climbed beyond the drinks, stories and laughter! Look me up.
|
|
Pappy
Trad climber
Atlanta
|
|
Hmmm...Since I have (up to now) assiduously avoided sitting breathlessly in front of the computer hanging on every word of brain dead Left Coast liberals masquerading as climbers just because they have a big ditch to play in (say that without taking a breath; thank you Henry James), I somehow missed the 'Fine Art of Screwing the Second' thread the first time around.
Curt: Bite me. (Hemingwayan concision).
The late Doc Bayne was a master of screwing the second. During the FA of one of the best (tho' off limits) climbs in NC, I followed him after his magnificent lead of P2 to find him slouched at the bottom of the prime pitch of the climb, a layback dihedral with a perfect finger crack, 300' off the deck. He handed me a sling with a few tiny wires and a couple of big friends on it. After a pause I said, 'Where's the rack?'
'If you wanted anything else you should have brought it with you.'
Of course, the only pieces that fit the damn thing were in the belay anchor. I figured he was hoping I would follow form and whimper out, so I pulled the 2 TCU out of the system, 'Oh, here it is,' leaving him with a good nut if you pulled straight down--too bad I'd probably bounce sideways if I actually did fall and hit the belay ledge.
It was great fun sliding the tipped out TCU for 80', especially since as an FA the granite was covered with lichen, but it was worth it when I got to the top and Doc knew he had to follow and the anchor was probably piss all.
Why did Doc think he had to fly.
|
|
Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
|
|
This thread definitely needs rejuvenation...
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2008 - 08:11am PT
|
Pappy is excellent-- if you like a foul mouthed, far right wing libertarian, know-it-all, over educated has been with a bad back and a worse temper.
Best whiner who ever climbed.
But funny.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
How about screwing the leader? BF(before Friends) I did an ascent of Central Pillar with my regular climbing partner who had done it once before without me. On the third pitch I pull the roof and look up at the crack to the belay(this was before there was a route description or topo so it was all unknown territory) and see that it is OW. I don't have any big pro and will have to run it out from the roof to the belay so I ask my partner why he, having done the climb before, didn't bring any big nuts. His response was that when he led the pitch the first time he did the route, his partner hadn't brought any big stuff so he had to run it out therefore I had to do the same. Luckily, the OW is pretty darn easy.
Bruce
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
|
|
I can think of a couple routes in Joshua Tree where the second can be well screwed. One, on the backside of the same buttress as Swept Away, is called "Second Thoughts." Another is "I Can't Believe It's a Girdle." Both involve the follower unclipping the pro set for the leader and then doing the crux while exposed to a nasty traversing ripper ending in a granite obstacle should he or she slip.
The trick is to lure someone into this predicament by offerring to lead...
|
|
stnmn
climber
intransit
|
|
Intentionally hurting the second seems a bit far . . .
But a well place toxic gaseous expulsion, as the leader leaves a tight chimney belay, can be quite effective.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2008 - 03:52pm PT
|
I thought it would be nice if this classic thread reappeared, at least briefly. It perhaps deserves a PG rating, but does have some quite witty moments, and is a contribution in a zany sort of way. It seemed like a timely thing to do, plus now it has a round 100 posts.
Re-bump, plus the result of Curt's surgery (reported by justthemaid) suggest that sometimes cantankerousness may be a virtue.
|
|
Barbarian
Trad climber
all bivied up on the ledge
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
|
I led After Six one fine afternoon and belayed at that fine big ledge at the top on pitch 1. My partner Barb seconded. Once she arrived....oh you meant the other way?
We liked my way.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!