Reno HH for Brass Nuts and Crimper

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 81 - 100 of total 180 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Jul 30, 2012 - 05:56pm PT

Ah "the Ol' Slab",isn't that an ol' Irish drinkin' song, mate. Made famous from Pattey and Whillians...

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Jul 30, 2012 - 06:08pm PT

Silver...Maybe they prefer a more rustic style. EITHER WAY.... LET'S POST SOME CLASSIC DONNER LINES AND GRADES TO WET THE APPETITES...Friggin' cap lock, sorry.
Do folks want Slab or crack?
(Slab) is really a mess in the pipe.... Grouse and Green Phantom have a few interesting slab lines and if the folks are headed for the meadows....Maybe some slab might be in their best interest.
I know everybody has to climb at SnowShed........But Ariel, Peter's, and Panic, get away from the crowds.
If you have aTeePee do you have a sweet lodge bro?

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Jul 30, 2012 - 06:24pm PT

Still - new area, I will start out on easy peezy stuff.

We went up to Jurassic Park yesterday near Estes. Both of our first times there. Granite. SANDBAG CITY! Man, I was happy I didn't lead that stuff. 10b? Pfffft! More like hard 11s!

And because of my speed (lack of) at trad leading, I'll only follow. That way we get in more than one pitch a day. :)

I'm looking forward to it. Better be real crimps - not tiny slab lumps. Slab is yucky. :) Haha!

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Jul 30, 2012 - 06:39pm PT

Yeah you have to get on Areil......It's as good as it get's.
But if you folks are headin' to toulomne, some Donner slab might make the trip more Inspiring.
Unless you're planning on doing Oz and some other great cracks...If you haven't done fairveiw NWFace, only a moderate, but still a classic, start at it late in the day and "churn" up the pitches.

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Jul 30, 2012 - 06:48pm PT

My feets need little edges! Pure on slab makes them cry. :) My last trip to Tuolumne was too soon post-busted-feet to do anything. Bummer. Hoping this trip is better.

BN is a self-admitted lead-hog. He's happy to lead anything. He's got his Tuolumne trip lined up with half the time climbing with another partner! The nerve! Can't blame him, his partner is awesome. I'll let the partner out himself if he wants.

So I'll be looking for someone to climb with in Tuolumne on some days (not sure those days yet though). Fun stuff - not endless slab because my feet really can't do that. Slab moves here and there is just fine.

Ed H - you around?? Karl B?? Great partners for sure.

I'm rambling. I'm avoiding work. Thank god for the taco for the facilitation of both. :)

edit: MarkM - my awesome memory prevents me from remembering what I've done in Tuolumne. Except Cathedral Peak. What a crudy memory of mine. Not Oz (hear it's heck on the feet). If BN gets on here, he can let remind me. He has done tons out there for sure. It's one of his favorite places!

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Jul 30, 2012 - 06:52pm PT

Hey Crimper check with Minerals, he's in the meadows and knows it geologically and guide book wise better then anyone. I can get you his cell phone if you want, E mail me.

bobinc

Trad climber

Portland, Or

Jul 30, 2012 - 10:54pm PT

Okay, Crimper- will hope to see you and BN either climbing or at the Mobil sometime the weekend of the 18th. Can't get up there until then. Likely will camp at Warren Creek.

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Jul 31, 2012 - 01:20am PT

You have to do Cathedral and Eichorn......as Mr. Muir said the only time he went to church in California was on the summit of Cathedral....

Shack

Big Wall climber

Reno NV

Jul 31, 2012 - 03:31am PT

we have a 4 bedroom portaledge set up we call home. We call it a modular home.

Hey Silver, did you upgrade to the double wide? Sweet. ;)

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Aug 1, 2012 - 11:15am PT

I think Riley is gonna be limited to School rock slab and Grose slab area. I don't think hanging around snowshed is gonna do his "broken wing" any good. But on the plus side, it might slow his pulling in of the winnings, down at the poker table.

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Aug 2, 2012 - 11:00am PT

I'll pay for 10 of the bolts, but are they really necessary? Is this a troll silver? Is it slab or steep or ?

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Aug 4, 2012 - 04:53pm PT

Really looking forward to it. Just returned from a great workout at the gym. (Yeah, I know it's a gym, but it's a great gym!).

Met a former Tahoe guy- Will Jones. I never go up and ask someone to climb, but I was alone and did. Great fun. Strong guy. Smooth climb. Good partner. Thanks for sending him and his family this way Tahoe folks!

See you all soon!

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Aug 4, 2012 - 05:13pm PT

This just in--BN and Crimpie are BAILING--they decided to come to the
Vooshifest instead!!!!!

hee heee heeeeeee. . .

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Aug 4, 2012 - 05:17pm PT

SteveW is being bad.

You get a pork chop for dinner now Steve. A raw pork chop.

:)

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Aug 5, 2012 - 10:38am PT

So, I see Riley is out. He's schmoozing on the vedauwoo thread.

Slacker. :)

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Aug 5, 2012 - 12:13pm PT

Sorry to hear you can't make it.
But I don't think there are any .10's at Donner that anyone can do with one arm, seriously. As Silver mentioned earlier, most of the routes are a little sand bagged, I think Areil and Peter's are about right on, but even Papa bear seems a little stiff for the grade. Most .6's and .7's seem about two grades off and most .9's would be .10 every where else. IMHO.
I'm getting a little concerned about the Heat...Shack and I were going to get out last Wednesday but it was way to warm. It is supposed to be hot this whole week.

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Aug 5, 2012 - 12:19pm PT

Yeah Ron the first time I did that route in the seventies it was a full tilt adventure, and I'd already done every .7 and .8 at the Leap and around South Shore. Epic you're going to die.