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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Feb 21, 2014 - 10:16am PT
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Hmm,
I think I'd already scanned that article and posted it up with a link to this thread!
Steve
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
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Steve.
You certainly did and thanks for doing... now it's both linked and posted in the thread. ;o)
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dags
climber
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I'll be heading over to the Calanques in May with a friend, and was wondering if a single 70m will be enough for the rappels we will encounter on the multipitch routes. I purchased the vtopo guidebook, and it suggests 2 50m ropes, but if a 70m is adequate we would prefer to travel with it. Any advice?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2014 - 01:33pm PT
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Cliffs around the village Morgiou
The village Morgiou you find at the "bottom" of the fjord in the middel of the photo. The white wall above Morgiou on the right side is Cret St Michel where you find many easier multipitch routes. At the right end of the photo you see a long wall where the stone has a darker colour (the middle part of the wall). This is Paroi des Toits where you find some of the hardest overhanging routes in the Calanques. Above the village on the left side you find Les Cabanons (hidden in the photo).
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2014 - 09:17am PT
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Am I boss or am I boss!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 30, 2014 - 09:30am PT
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^^^ The dood goes on a busman's holiday in Sicily methinks.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2014 - 09:32am PT
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Close Sicilian connections, no doubt... ^^^^
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
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Marseille - Le Vieux Port
The smells and sounds of the old harbour - the ocean, the old wooden ships, the iron, the ropes, the voices, the stone on the ground...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
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Marseille this Monday:
A housing estate in Marseille was sealed off after gunmen shot at a police vehicle hours before the French prime minister, Manuel Valls, was due to visit the city.
Residents reported that about 10 young hooded gunmen were patrolling the streets of the Castellane estate on scooters on Monday morning, looking for a rival gang and firing Kalashnikovs into the air.
When the first police vehicle arrived at the estate, another gang member who was posted inside one of the estate’s tower blocks shot at it with a rifle.
About 100 special forces police were dispatched to search the area, where about 7,000 people live. Riot police were posted at entrances to the estate and a creche was evacuated.
Later on Monday, police reportedly found seven Kalashnikovs and about 20kg of cannabis as well as a large sum of money in an apartment in Castellane. Police were still searching for the gunmen.
The gunfire happened as Pierre-Marie Bourniquel, the departmental director of public security, was checking that the area was safe before the prime minister’s visit.
Valls was due in Marseille to congratulate local officials and police on their clampdown on crime in the city. He was expected to be accompanied by the interior minister, Bernard Cazeneuve, and the education minister, Najat Vallaud-Belkacem.
Le Figaro reported that Bourniquel and an accompanying police chief had come under fire as they arrived at the estate in a police car with its siren on. The shots passed two or three metres from the vehicle and no one was injured.
Police said the shooting was linked to a dispute over a drug deal between two rival gangs.
Bourniquel told Agence France-Presse that he and other officers were in three vehicles that were targeted: “We were shot at when we got there. We were in clearly marked police cars.”
The 1960s housing estate where the French footballer Zinedine Zidane grew up is in one of Marseille’s notorious crime-ridden suburbs.
Drug traffickers regularly turn parts of the estate into no-go areas for police and outsiders, and local authorities plan to demolish at least one high-rise block in an attempt to make the area easier to monitor and control.
Last week the local infants’ school was broken into, and the neighbouring primary school was set alight over the Christmas period.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2015 - 10:41am PT
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Marseille early 1900
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nicolasC
climber
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Sep 28, 2015 - 02:47pm PT
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I just spend a week this september in Cassis.
Because of the fire hazard, the access to the Calanques was first fully closed, then only allowed from 6h to 11AM.
Many tourists did not follow the rules set by the national park and could be found walking around. Ourselves, we did our best to walk at first light around 6:30 to be treated to magnificent sunrises.
We did 2 routes in the Calanque d'En Vau: la Saphir (5 pitches)et la traversée Ramon (16 pitches with an epic rappel in the wrong gully). Both classics with some polished holds.
We also climbed routes in the just recently developped destel area (mear Evenos) and in the historic Baou de 4 oro area (near Toulon)
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2016 - 07:01am PT
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Gaston Rebuffat climbing in the Calanques, Marseille - an article from Paris Match 1961
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2016 - 01:57am PT
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David's article following the link above should be read as a learning point (or a warning).
Here's David's introduction to the article:
Half the people around me were naked. Now you don’t get that at Stanage, even on a summer’s day. Climbing on the nudist beach of En Vau in la Calanque had initially felt surreal, but after a week had become almost normal. As had being somewhere where the weather was always perfect, the sea only a few yards away.
And this is David's introduction of himself:
David Coley
Has climbed in many parts the world, never doing a first ascent of anything noteworthy, or anything very hard, but trying to overcome the limits of a serious lack of talent by understanding how to tie knots, build belays and keep moving at all times. He loves climbing in a three or rope soloing long routes and has a strong belief that if you know what you are doing with modern equipment you can get up some surprising things without being strong or talented. He maintains the educational climbing resource www.multipitchclimbing.com
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2016 - 02:00am PT
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Some old postcards from another calanque - Sormiou
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Feb 26, 2017 - 01:05pm PT
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"endless pockets, perfect white stone, looking down at clear water, and a yacht with two girls sunbathing French style, nearly cause to fall, but it was only 10b or so." Jeff Bosson r.i.p.
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