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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Apr 15, 2006 - 04:59pm PT
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Pete,
Are you talking about the bolt right before the hook traverse to the 9:00 roof? I pitched onto the rivet that used to be there, and BOY was I glad it held. So at the time replaceing it with a bolt seemed OK to me, so I didn't stop it. But with a little reflection, I now feel that takes something away from the route.
Man, that was a good whipper (palms sweating...)
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Apr 15, 2006 - 05:05pm PT
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Hey, just curious if anything went down at "High Noon"... The deadline was today, right?
Since Matt never responded to Pete's bombshell above, this is all we got!
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 15, 2006 - 05:20pm PT
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BLowmeharder,
Well it's good to have you around at any rate.
But there is not much that is more zen in climbing than when you are way run out and you get one good piece that you have to calmly fiddle in while holding on for dear life, or while balancing precariously for dear life. OK, maybe it's not zen, maybe it's just real good concentration LOL.
However, I agree, there IS somethign about adding shiny bits of metal and a rope that makes rope climbing seem more important.
I'm proudest of my routes, but without question the onsight highballs I've done, or even the ones I backed off of til I got the nerve to finish, no matter if FA or repeats or even trad highballs, those were more of a trick to pull off. Thinking back on it, even the easy ones were just cool.
Maybe my favorite is my almost onsight (climbed to the first serious move, backed down, realized the true way, an undercling, climbed it) of DCB11, at Sand Rock AL. DCB stands for Don't Climb with Bob, who would be Bob Cormany, legendary hobbit-like creature of southern bouldering. Bob showed it to me himself, with the admonition, "Don't break off any of those fins at the top"
Yeah it's only 5.11, yeah it's only 25 feet, but the fall is NOT good, you will get hurt, and it almost never gets climbed, cause nobody much knows about it. Hobbit like creatures tend to be a little secretive, LOL.
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Apr 15, 2006 - 05:39pm PT
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Nice.
I like highball 5.4's.
Also, in aid climbing, you shouldn't get to use a rope since you're not actually climbing the rock.
Same reason you don't rope up to climb a ladder.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 15, 2006 - 08:17pm PT
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No Christian, not below the 9 O'Clock Roof. It was on the tenth pitch, below the "tooth".
Blowmember, you really are a dumbass, aren't you? I wrote all of that principally for you so that perhaps you could actually learn something, and all you can write is "get a blog"?
Get a brain, dude.
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Apr 15, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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Yeah, well we replaced that one too I'm sure.
I feel so dirty...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 15, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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Pete, go easy, Blowmeharder is nice.
He does have a point about roping up to climb a ladder... can you say, WALL LADDER?????
God I love mine, LOL.
And NO, Blowmedown, I just don't think EXTREEEEME AID!!!!! will catch on. Not just yet. But, if it does, you should get the credit for suggesting it first!!
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Apr 15, 2006 - 11:18pm PT
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I've found it most helpful to cut the barb off before removing a rusty hook.
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