Top 20 Tahquitz/Suicide Climbs on Mtn. Project

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Murf

climber

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:10am PT

At 17 (no aid), oddly the ones I haven't done are #1 and #19 and #20, the easiest and the hardest.

Here's a question for those in the know: what is the original FFA finish to the Green Arch, above the lip or below? That is, does it traverse with feet on the top of the arch or do you have your hands on the arch as it "crests"?

Wil: Flakes-STH-Flakes-The Price of Fear is a great linkup. Batcrack-Crucifix-Field of Dreams is a step up from that.

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:40am PT

Here's a question for those in the know: what is the original FFA finish to the Green Arch, above the lip or below? That is, does it traverse with feet on the top of the arch or do you have your hands on the arch as it "crests"?
-

Below. Crux at the very end there.

JL

Murf

climber

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:42am PT

Thanks Largo, that's how I did it.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:45am PT

Murf

climber

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:52am PT

Makes me want GOOD photos (not that the classic ones disappoint, but we want the colors!)... Hmmmm

As only Epi can! <--- clicky

Can't get enough:

Getting there <--- clicky

Oh, Largo said *under* the arch:
Just before the crux. <--- clicky

Support your independent photog!

ATS

climber

Mountain Project

Apr 13, 2012 - 11:36am PT

Etude and Seasons End are two of my favorites at Suicide. Its been almost 20 years since I have done either of the two but I remember them fondly as being pure fun to lead.

Me too. Crown jewel for me was Disco Jesus and Rebolting Development

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:20pm PT

Makes me want to start the hike right now! And with the Todd festival next week, might get up there.

That is me on Insomnia up thread, taken by Randy V.

Some old shots:

Mike G. on Green Arch

Gib L. on Vampire

can't say

Social climber

Pasadena CA

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:40pm PT

Kirk Hines on Revelation, 1977
Gary Ruhl on the 1st pitch of Surprised.

steelmnkey

climber

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:48pm PT

Few of the easier classics...

Left Ski Track

First pitch of Whodunnit

Kick out the jams! Flower of High Rank

Launching out the horn on Traitor Horn

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Apr 13, 2012 - 12:58pm PT

17 out of 20 for me. No white Maiden's Walkway or Angel's Fright on the easier end of things & no Paisano Overhang on the upper end of things, although I must confess that I have only toproped the Pirate so perhaps that doesn't count.

Lots of great pitches in Idyllwild. I kind of like Edgehogs too but that didn't make the list.

Tony Bird

climber

Northridge, CA

Apr 13, 2012 - 01:57pm PT

applying a list of 20 to tahquitz-suicide seems just a bit trivializing. the richness of climbing's history there rivals yosemite's. dig into that history and find your place in it. everyone has different talents on the rock and responds differently, and these dramatic climbs have a way of bringing out the best in every climber. make your own list--as many of the best here seem to be doing. the "been there, done that" crowd need not apply.

i'd like to see supertopo discussions become just a tad less trivial. one way for that to happen would be for important people to lend more weight when important subjects come up, instead of telling everyone that supertopo is not the place for such discussion. as far as i'm concerned, supertopo is not the place for me to tell everyone how i fit into a trivial list of 20.

Josh Higgins

Trad climber

San Diego

Apr 13, 2012 - 02:09pm PT

^^^ = ??? I guess some people just like to complain?

This is a fun discussion about an amazing area bringing back great memories and receiving awesome comments. It sure doesn't seem trivial to me...

Last month, I started planning a day with a friend to see how many pitches we could climb up at Tahquitz in a 24 hour period. It should be a fun day. We're going to try to gun for a lot of the more historic routes. I think with the area's popularity, we'll have to do it on a weekday so we aren't climbing past too many people. It should be a fun little adventure, and there are some classics on the list that I haven't done yet and this will be the perfect opportunity. For example, I haven't done the 2nd pitch to Blanketty Blank. I remember looking at that and thinking it would be exciting if I ever got around to doing it. I think that Fred will now be added to our list after reading this. I'll also have to read the history section of the guidebook again to get other ideas.

Wait, I just had a realization. The Edge isn't on the list of the 20 best, and I don't think it's even been mentioned yet in the tread!!! The cover photo, a line visible from town, and one of the most aesthetic and sustained pitches up there didn't make the list? Hrm.... unacceptable! I think we'll have to try to work that into the day as well in the morning when the friction is good! :)

Josh

Russ Walling

Gym climber

Poofter's Froth, Wyoming

Apr 13, 2012 - 02:14pm PT

Bird is just fussy 'cause we won't put a roof on his house.....

Tony Bird

climber

Northridge, CA

Apr 13, 2012 - 02:44pm PT

we've got a roof, russ--fingers crossed it won't leak today.

thanks for helping to make my point, josh. all ya gotta do is think for half a minute.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2012 - 03:05pm PT

Dr. F.......179 Suicide, 103 Tahquitz;...........I have a few more if you include 1 hr. rock, Owl Rock and the Hinderlands........I need to get busy;...tick off a few more......(I think The Troll, Gaines, Hensel, Evans,Clark;...they got a few ticked...)..

Friend

climber

Apr 13, 2012 - 04:25pm PT

The Price of Fear might not make the list on its own, but it’s a kickass finale to the Flakes or Super Pooper.

Wet Dreams could be grandfathered in too, as the capper for the Flower or Etude.

I’m loving the old school shots, but here’s a NEW school shot. Big Jake Evans, climbing 5.10 at 6 years old.

looking sketchy there...

Social climber

Latitute 33

Apr 13, 2012 - 04:26pm PT

Hensel will have everyone beat, no doubt. Not only has he done all the stuff the rest of us have done (or should I say "can do"), he has ticked more hard routes than anyone.

Bob has done tons of routes, including FAs of most of the newer routes (some of which are down-right brilliant).

Powell, Evans and others have huge totals. I've done perhaps only 85% of the stuff up there.

There are so many good routes at all grade levels, there are lots of routes worthy of mention. One of my favorites is The Illegitimate -- now that is 5.9 that commands some respect.

....another good link-up was/is Looking Backwards to My Pink Half of the Drainpipe.

And Sketchy? What the hell kind of route name is that, anyways.....?!?

You probably mean Looking Backwards to Zeno's Paradox (a fine combo), since My Pink Half of the Drainpipe is on the Northeast Buttress, quite a ways around and left of the Maiden Buttress.

My Pink Half of the Drainpipe is a Bonzo Dog Band song.

Murf

climber

Apr 13, 2012 - 05:10pm PT

Bird, you're such a ass.

applying a list of 20 to tahquitz-suicide seems just a bit trivializing.

I know, f*#king MP.com coming over to the Taco making us talk about their lists. I think MP.com is a socialist company!

the richness of climbing's history there rivals yosemite's. dig into that history and find your place in it.

Yeah, I'm gonna find my place in history on this thread. You know, with pics and stories of the FA's, the FFA's, my place in history is pretty much assured (as is yours).

everyone has different talents on the rock and responds differently,

If there were only some more approachable sport climbing in Idyllwild, it would see good climbers come around.

i'd like to see supertopo discussions become just a tad less trivial.

I know, talking about routes that I dream about and looking at pictures of the past, present, and framing myself in a photo of the future is so... unfulfilling and trite.

one way for that to happen would be for important people to lend more weight when important subjects come up

Do you know what it took to get Dr. F in this thread rather than that one ->... The gods wept!

as far as i'm concerned, supertopo is not the place for me to tell everyone how i fit into a trivial list of 20.

Trust me, we all know how you fit.

Murf