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WBraun
climber
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Mar 29, 2006 - 02:30pm PT
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Fiction, OFF White
I was just to the right of the main water cracks and not where Eric Beck put up the "Werners Wiggles", but I was in Sears construction work boots free soloing.
I thought I was going to die. Bruce Khump was at the base watching me and I was looking at him thinking how he was going to react seeing me come flying by. Luckly it didn't happen, I was extremely scared to death.
Chris Vaneveer tried to free solo the Eric Beck version thinking I did that. He backed off. I told him later where I really was when this crazy sh-it first went down.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 29, 2006 - 02:44pm PT
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Well, a good story none the less, gave me cottonmouth reading it. The Sears detail sounds familiar too - they were always those light tan high top jobbies in my mind's eye.
While we're winnowing away at things, and you've mentioned Eric Beck, I wanted to check on a quote I've always attributed to him:
"At either end of the social spectrum there lies a leisure class." I know he's a sharp guy (wound up a physics prof at UCSD, didn't he?) but that quote is such a literary gem and a razor sharp description of those glory days that I've had to wonder if the provenance I've promulgated is correct.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 02:44pm PT
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minor break in the dialogue,
bvb would want a little visual relief at this point:
OK, back to Coffee Talk...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2006 - 02:49pm PT
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incoming transmission: weather report from the outer reaches of the mussy nebula:
we're having a heat wave, a tropical heat waaaaave......
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2006 - 02:51pm PT
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thanks, tar. i'm breathing again....just clipped the second bolt on the fourth pitch of freewheelin'.....niiiiice.....
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 29, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
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She started this heat wave
By making her seat wave
That vinyl slab rests in my office. Seems Evetree insisted that I own that album.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2006 - 03:00pm PT
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with good reason, wouldn't you say?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 03:01pm PT
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Speaking of Office, this memory lane hayride has reduced my billable hours to about 3.5 per day!
A virtual AVALANCHE of Communique, eh?
picture ripped from the Joseph P. Alaskan Photo Thread...
Said thread buried by our band width barage...
Anyone Else?
Heck, I took the day off so I could clean up around the outside of the house, reset my winter tires to summer in anticipation of the JT reunion and I still have not left the inside of the house!!!
(except to drive 10 min, to the ski area to pick Lisa up after she ran up there for her morning workout...)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2006 - 03:36pm PT
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so we finally have confirmation: you will be at the josh shindig next month???
a showdown is inevitable. i suggest slashface laps at 50 paces.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 03:47pm PT
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Yeah, and I'm using my 50 paces to get a running start!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 29, 2006 - 04:32pm PT
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Roy,
I'd gotten sucked into work (sad bastard) and lapsed in my lurking. That shot of 'Tonic Boom' is rad. Mussy pantomimed that move several times to me at the pad in Paradise--it was the dead of winter, we had the propane blower on in the garage, gas seeming into our pours, drinking 'spro and blackberry schnapps out of tiki heads...at 9 in the morning. We called it "beer-thirty" even though it was so cold we'd have had to thaw the beer before we could drink it.
Anyhow, someone needs to give some context to that route. As I understood it (not first hand), there was some other controversy surrounding another chopped route, bruised egos, and someone's Jewish heritage.
Post up...
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 29, 2006 - 04:42pm PT
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Yeah Roy, give us the whole dirty tale, it's just family sitting around the campfire here...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 29, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
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waitaminnit, lemme make some popcorn first a get another beer....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 05:26pm PT
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This is a topic alright.
Perhaps a bit scattered?
hmmm, bolt wars is so last year, but there's some tellin' I'm sure. You might be talking about Dave Katz regarding that arena-
Per Tonic Boom in particular, Russ might better get it started because that's really all his baby. My bolting of Rainy Day and it's newer finish merely coincided. Tonic Boom is the Main Event, with Rainy Day being way more doable. Russ was asking me to get Doug Macdonald to post up cuz the 3 of us did a handful of other rap routes. I couldn't source Doug's number this morning.
I recall Tonic Boom, Rainy Day, Satanic Mechanic, and Something near or Called Hitler's Brain. We looked at a thing called El Diablo. We put in some convenience bolts here and there which I think Bachar just took out; he probably did the right thing.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 05:37pm PT
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Tonic Boom was something Russ really threw himself at. I lost interset pretty quickly, because the move was so, so wicked and so Mussy. The crack had stout grain and as you can see from the photo quite well, he was setting up for these full body extension "dead points" to a wide fist. Really. I just saw myself getting tore up in it...
I remember Mike Waugh being, say, feisty about what we were up to, mostly cuz Rainy Day had been an aid line, which a lot of us had toproped free, but it moved right where it peters out into easier ground. There was this rurp on it for eons, with some way old probably Dave Evans tat sling on it. So we took the line out left, and that's where Russ also came in from the right with Tonic Boom. So the lines share the same last couple bolts.
I think he ended up blowing off the fist for a crimp on the edge of the upper lip of the crack, with his wrist turned out.
If you look at the photo closely, that's what he's doing...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 05:57pm PT
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Did you want more?
I gotta go change a couple tires 'n stuff,
I'll think about some of the other scattered pieces, like me and Lechlinski pulling out varios Rap Routes, Katz getting his Rap Routes pulled, then me and Mussy Putting up Rap Routes, in that order?
Oh, I just rememeber we did a thing called: "Boxlicker Battle-Chassis"!
oh oh oh, that was fun. We did it on New Years day '88, on a terific hangover, after a really great party, which absolutely topped the scales...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Mar 29, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
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I Remember the beta for the Tonic: you do that span and grab the edge just like in the picture.... then ya kinda "pulse" in and out about 3 times and dyno to a cupped hand in the back of that flake..... at that point all points are off except for the cupped hand and any skin you might have left is now gone.
Between both our senility Roy, Doug might be our only hope. Here is how I remember it/them/some of it:
Tonic Boom: We (me and Roy and maybe Doug) lobbed some anchors in the top of the formation to check the thing out. I was ringleader for the main project, Tonic Boom. I decided it would go, Roy decided it would not go, at least by him. Doug suggested bolting on a hold??? Or was that Roy... either way. So in the meantime we start working the stuff up above the business. Roy being the action hog he is, just can't stand to see me and Doug having all the fun, drills a bolt out left of Rainy Day and then joins up with the bolts that were placed for Tonic Boom... his creation is now born is Tic Tic Boom. We really need Waugh over here to get that end, but Waugh was pretty upset about the Tic Tic part. I think he was fixing to knock Tardy out. I think I was just generally busted for rap boltiong, summit anchor, and using colored hangers (thanks Charles ya jackass) and being a sh#t talker in general. Anyway, Roy in standard fashion, leads his rig up and abandons the area and leaves it all to me and Doug.... like 30 days later I get the thing with Doug belaying. Had to skip a bolt up high (last bolt) as I was too pumped to make the clip and continue... so I gassed it into giant whipper range and Doug actually covered his eyes.
Satanic Mechanic was a similar deal.... not sure who sent us over there. Maybe Bill Russell, maybe Roy, who knows.... but we get in some anchors, I place some bolts on lead, get pumped, Roy probably lobs a couple in and then that bastard Doug McDonald glory leads the thing! Rats!
They Saved Hitlers Brain: Same thing... me and Cilley are trying it back in the day... could not get it to go.... Maybe Cilley did it on TR or something later, but anyway... we put in some top anchors, and start drilling (me, Roy and Doug) . In the mean time Roy is climbing underneath the driller just waiting to clip a bolt that has been in the rock about 12 seconds. Captain Action (Roy) maybe did it, maybe didn't... who knows. I do have a pic some where of all 3 of us working it, with guys climbing, clipping, drilling.... all at the same time... and the beauty of it is, the route is 22ft long!!!
EDIT: here's a pic of the Brain in progress:
Mussy So-High: Went out there with Doug McDonald.... summit anchors are placed from some previous routes that me and Roy(?) did on the formation.... I choke, that bastard McDonald glory leads it...
Saturn Boulder: Same set of fools. Decided on bolts after trying to boulder it out for like a year. Pretty sure they all went in on the lead, in some manner.... aid? The summit bolts I think we got in when I threw a rock over the formation? I remember juggin up there and there is no other way up. Sketch as I recall. Took some clanger whippers off the thing and then that bastard Doug MCDonald glory leads it. Not sure where Roy was... probably sleeping one off.
Boxlicker Battle Chassis: after a New Years party.... same crew... super hung over. Put up a good route that I actually did get to finish the lead on. I think we all placed a bolt or two by any means possible. That route got chopped by Moe I hear. Not sure why. Probably cause we were too drunk and too on rappel that close to the trail. Maybe Naygro can ask him and get back to us....
As for the Jewish heritage attack.... that was BS... Dave katz did a route called Tower of Babel. A bunch of us went out there to chop it as it was placed on rappel (hippo-crits!!) So we chop the thing, and like three guys on this forum were there (got pics too) but I get the most heat. At one point there was supposed to be a tussle in the B Loop... never happened as the tough guys got snail eye. But they did call me and Moe "Rock Nazis" and the chopping was a direct attack "on my Jewish heritage".
EDIT in pic: Some Nazi action:
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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Mar 29, 2006 - 06:34pm PT
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Don't get me started about Katz...
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 29, 2006 - 06:35pm PT
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So much for the sieve-like memory, Mussy! The nice addendum is that realtor's (Katz) mug shot/business mailer that was sent and pinned to your fridge a decade after the fact. Time heals wounds...but not gobies, fist jam compression wounds, or blown tips.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
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Now this is gettin' rich.
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