Honnold is back in the valley..

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Gene

climber

Sep 30, 2011 - 12:28pm PT

I also heard he is heavy into ABBA.

I was fine about Alex until I read that. Now I fear for him.

g

Knuckles

Trad climber

Everett, Wa

Sep 30, 2011 - 12:30pm PT

Gonzo
You're right. I did go off the original speculation that Reardon was pulled off technical rock rather than flat rock at the base. In the end it doesn't really matter.

All I said beyond that was that they died while pushing their envelope. I think that's a fair statement in each case. Whether it's your fault or Mother Nature's you're still dead and your Mom and loved ones don't care exactly how or why.

You or I might have thought twice and then three times about going that near to the rough seas as Reardon did. I think in his case it was about perception of risk. in that situation one is essentially soloing, even when walking on flat ground. It's wet, slippery rock and there are big waves. Obviously some are bigger than others and that's what got him. The point was he chose to accept the danger that one thing going wrong, whether it's in his control or not might do him in.

For Osman he chose to remove his skill entirely from the equation. Taking that leap takes balls for sure but not skill apart from the rigging involved. He's totally reliant on gear but the total reliance on one thing has the same consequences and limited margin of error as soloing.

Ironically though it could be considered the exact opposite of soloing. He's not relying on himself at all. It seems a common theme amongst soloists is this feeling of being entirely responsible for everything and the hyper awareness that comes from that.

jstan

climber

Sep 30, 2011 - 12:35pm PT

I listened to ABBA for the first time a couple weeks ago. You know what they are? Peter Paul and Mary - with two Marys. Perfectly matched voices. They also choreographed their movements, something Lady Gaga has picked up; but that is a minor point.

The sea off Ireland has very occasional monster waves that are basically solitons. A low probability phenomenon.

Knuckles

Trad climber

Everett, Wa

Sep 30, 2011 - 12:45pm PT

Again I think it's amazing what some of these guys and Alex in particular are doing. Alex even seems to have an humble attitude and respect about it. I think many who meet him and spend time with him would be surprised to find out he does what he does. Some "extreme" guys are very obvious that they are "extreme".

My only gripe in the whole situation is the photoshoot afterwards. I get that these guys get paid for doing these shoots and it helps to advance their sport, career and sponsors but I remember watching Ueli Steck on the Eiger for the first time and feeling sick to my stomach. Not becasue I was afraid for him. Obviously he had sent at that point and was safe. I felt sick because he was re-enacting the ascent as Alex was in the link above. What happens when one of these guys dies for the cameras? I don't think it's wrong that they do it but I feel wrong when I watch it. It feels like the Faces of Death movies that some kid woould sneak in to the slumber party when you were 8. You'd watch two scenes and everyone would feel sick and want to go home.

Reardon died for the cameras. I'm not saying he was a glory hound or anything but the facts of the matter are he died during a photoshoot. I don't think he would've sought out wave-swept cliffside choss for a day of cragging otherwise. I guess I feel guilty that these guys can't just go out and do this stuff but that instead we as a society or culture want to see them doing it. Don't get me wrong. I've watched the Alex link more than once and the Steck on the Eiger was a daily view in our office for weeks. I just still feel dirty.

Brian

climber

California

Sep 30, 2011 - 12:59pm PT

knuckles,

To say Mike died 'as a result of soloing' because a wave took him from a flat, non-technical rock at the base of his last climb is like saying someone who dies in a car crash in Fresno after soloing in Yosemite 'died as a result of soloing'. It's ridiculous. Mike's death was the result of very bad luck, and had nothing to do with his soloing.

Brian

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Sep 30, 2011 - 01:09pm PT

Cleo: being that the movie is a re-do of the actual solo, he asked the camera crew if they wanted him to act like the route was hard. So, in actuality, Alex appears on screen less perfect than how he actually solos and is doing the business.

Ms55401: Very few soloists die actually soloing. I can only think of Bachar and Hersey---there are more of course but it just is not epidemic in that subset. Soloists of course die from tons of other causes: car crashes, large shorebreak, bungiejumping, broken harness and other equipment failures, suicide, old age & infirmity.

Coz: Go easy on Wayno, it seems he was just quoting his ole fav: Gone With The Wind. Don’t you think?

Pilgrims: what Alex will owe us more so every year is his accounts of these experiences. Being a bright and avid reader, hopefully he will be firing out some great tales in years hence and when he feels he has the perspective right.

For those of you that now are cowering in fear that Alex actually listens to Abba while knoshing with Stannard on Ladyfingers and apple juice and playing farmer with Johno's polypropylene vintage animal toy collection from the sixties, look below. This was the iPod playlist he showed us he had playing for his solo of Moonlight Buttress in 2008:
from: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/rb-honnold-moonlight-playlist
(go to iTunes or similar to hear excerpts)

New Dark Ages Bad Religion
Humanoid Chevelle
F*#k Authority Pennywise
Can't Repeat Offspring
Something Wrong With Me Pennywise
Who's On Your Side Pennywise
Plug In Baby Muse
Sky Is Over Serj Tankian
I Get It Chevelle
Read My Mind The Killers
New Born Muse
The Fad Chevelle
Happy? Mudvayne
Forget To Remember Mudvayne
Tarantula Smashing Pumpkins
Falling Down Atreyu
A Single Second AFI
Empty Walls Serj Tankian
ATWA System Of A Down
He Who Laughs Last AFI
Chop Suey System Of A Down
Prayer Of The Refuge Rise Against
The Good Left Undone Rise Against
Fall Children AFI
Pushing Me Away Linkin Park

Wayno

Big Wall climber

Seattle, WA

Sep 30, 2011 - 01:35pm PT

Hey coz, I don't know you or Honnold so what I say really doesn't matter a bit. I could be all wrong. That's ok, this is just a forum. What I meant was that the youth have the luxury of building on the foundations that guys like you started. It's only natural that they should eclipse our standards.

jstan

climber

Sep 30, 2011 - 01:53pm PT

playing farmer with Johno's polypropylene vintage animal toy collection from the sixties

My feelings are injured. My toys were all made of rubber and dated from the thirties. I tried that polypropylene stuff. Just did not work for me.

That an ipod is used at all is worrisome. Very. Technology is being used to override natural protective mechanisms.

Wayno

Big Wall climber

Seattle, WA

Sep 30, 2011 - 02:03pm PT

I know nothing but that he looks happier in his pictures than you sound on this forum. I hope he finds what he is looking for. I hope you do too.

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Sep 30, 2011 - 02:08pm PT

Well, Johno, apparently you held back on Alex when he visited. But I do understand that your classic set of rubber sheep, cows, horses, pigs, and chickens have to be safely archived now and the poly stand-in set has been the norm chez Stannard for quite a few years now, everyone is saying. But heads-up here, J, as there is going to be a pop quiz on Alex’s iTunes list on Monday, so get listen’. You will find AH’s music tastes right up your alley.

kev

climber

A pile of dirt.

Sep 30, 2011 - 03:26pm PT

Peter,

Glad Alex isn't listening to ABBA - that's some mess up sh#t...
You know, Bluering was fine until he started with ABBA. It's the gateway band...

Thanks for setting us straight with his playlist!

kev

WBraun

climber

Sep 30, 2011 - 03:32pm PT

I don't care what anyone says.

But if you're free soloing Half Dome, Heaven, Cosmic Debris, Phoenix, Moonlight buttress, etc etc.

You're fuking RAD !!!!!!!

Dickbob

climber

Westminster Colorado

Sep 30, 2011 - 03:59pm PT

Hell yes! A life well lived if you ask me.

rnevius

Sport climber

San Luis Obispo, CA

Sep 30, 2011 - 04:02pm PT

When will everyone realize that he's doing it for himself, not his sponsors, not for you, not for me, and not for the publicity?

AKDOG

Mountain climber

Anchorage, AK

Sep 30, 2011 - 04:06pm PT

I don't care what anyone says.

But if you're free soloing Half Dome, Heaven, Cosmic Debris, Phoenix, Moonlight buttress, etc etc.

You're fuking RAD !!!!!!!

Word!!!! Alex is rad….. for me the sad part is the only way I could climb these is with aiders.

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Sep 30, 2011 - 04:30pm PT

Agreed, rnevius. Good question and exhortation!

Hard to understand that anyone would be lead to believe Alex or any other top climber could pull off these achievements while considering what might be on next on the Gong Show, as Alex puts it. It just does not happen. Can't. You can only solo like this when the shiz is coming from way inside your art and power. Period.

edit more: If Alex was climbing from the surface, he would have already been on Freerider unroped; after all he is not the ONLY climber thinking of it and capable of firing it unroped. There is a bunch others and some Euros too. And whoever actually pulls it off.....yikes....will never ever be forgotten. So, if any of our soloists were that shallow, someone would have made the attempt already; who knows what would have happened.