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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2006 - 09:57pm PT
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Peter's show was great.. Sonny's was inspired! Cobra Crack goes free on gear at 14b/c! Plus Bachar's film too!
great show, visit:
http://www.squamishfilm.com/
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 11, 2006 - 05:20am PT
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Is the south sea's so steap the rope would not need to be anchored at the base?
If you mean anchroing to pull the rope away from the wall...
no. pretty sure not.
It should hang plumb to the deck. I was told (while sitting in the meadow) that the fellas I was watching do it had the rope tied to one of the trees just out from the base of the alcove.
I'd want to be the first one down I think. I guess if you don't go the perfect speed, or stop you could burn the rope...YIKES!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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Damn dude how can you even ask that question?.....
You belong..
oh man.. I get some pretty critical 'feedback' from my website. Guys saying I have no biz being up there etc...
Click here to see intro to our film
That's why I was so glad that Croft and Sonny were accepting of the project. Kudos from those guys means allot.
What do you kids think? stick to the sidewalks? would you? I remember watching Mark Wellman in videos thinking I’d do anything to get back on the rocks too!
bz
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 19, 2006 - 06:34pm PT
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Yeah, you'll stick to the sidewalk...after you CRATER! Ar ar ar
IMHO, everyone is a risk or a liability on a wall at some point...some people just get there sooner, is all. If I was a quad headed up on the big stone, I'd make damn sure I had a big pile of warm stuff to burrito up in in case the weather went south.
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Aug 19, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
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nice brad, looks like its going to be a good film...
so have you decided when and what you going to send?
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 09:30pm PT
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hello all... and update.
We'll be in the valley last week of sept, into oct if needed. We'll be doing zodiac in a push. If you would like to help, we'll certainly be in need. (might be just carrying a pack, but it all adds up)
Our film is playing again.. this time at vimff.org
It is less climbing and more father son story, but I'll give away the end -- we get to the top after ten years of work.
Elcap film will be more like murderball, but on a big wall.
Kris .. will you still be on ship then?
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Hey what’s up Brad! Umm I don’t know if im going to be out on the high seas or not at that time, I just got deployed to a new helo squadron so things up in the air for now, but if I can I’ll try and make it there and monkey around with you dudes.
Ohhhhahhh!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
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Quadriplegic Climbs Website
hi, we will be on CBC Radio on this thursday at about 12:30 - 1 PM PST talking about the film.. tune in if you can.
cheers,
brad
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nvrws
climber
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Feb 15, 2007 - 08:25pm PT
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My god that is a formidable task.. My questions would relate to:
1)skin: how do you prevent breakdown given harnesses etc.
2)Autonomic dysreflexia: seems like an almost forgone conclusion, how do you deal with it.
My assumption is that you are a partial quad with some function. Having said that, I think the best time for an el cap trip would be late spring or early fall. This would avoid the extreme heat which I would think, would lead to significant sci type problems.
good luck and right on!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2007 - 12:12am PT
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hi...
yup... skin and Autonomic dysreflexia are big issues.. but the rig is just like a regular wheelchair seating system, so.. does not matter if it is 2 feet, or 2000 feet off the deck.
climbing in late sept to avoid heat, exactly.
you must know a quad?
brad
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L
climber
The City of Lost Angels
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Feb 16, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
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Bump for Matt M
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2007 - 05:45pm PT
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matt m?
matt maddaloni?
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kev
climber
CA
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Feb 17, 2007 - 05:15pm PT
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bump - this is climbing related....
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2007 - 12:29am PT
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just a noteworthy email from Kris...
-----------------------------------------
oh yeah, when i was watching your movie something was said about you not being able to sweat, have you looked into adding a small mister to your rig that could feed a constant light spray through out the hot sections of the day.. it get SCORTCHING hot on the Capitan… especially if the route you intend on climbing leads you through some of the black stone up there.
very nice dude. that will be a killer send. man, i have to hand it to you, even when i repel a pitch to go down and clean it i HATE jugging back up to my top anchor and i get to brace my feet against the rock some of the time and it still sucks. but dude, your going to be hanging out in space for the majority of those 16 pitches, all spinning around as the wind blows and what not... that sh#t is creepy and a killer on the elbows, i have one word for you SUFFERING! yeahhh dude, proud!
after talking about all of this free hanging jugging something crossed my mind, you guys must bring a fare amount of chaff padding and maybe even a rescue/rigging pulley, you know the ones that you put on sharp ledges/edges that have a small metal stand that supports a pulley so the rope does not rub on the sharp edge of the rock.
there is nothing scarier that jugging wile your rope rubs up and down on an edge slowly cutting through the mantel and core wile it makes a damn noise like a guitar string.. consider this be for you go if you already haven’t.
cheers.
--------------------------
he is totally right, we use a huge pulley, but still going to make plastic wings on it to help keep it from twisting.
brad
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2007 - 01:46am PT
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Will Play in flagstaffmountainfilms.com fest..
Back to the Wall (Canada, 2006, 22 min)
Showing:
Saturday 10:00 AM, March 10th
Thursday 7:00 PM, March 08th
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 26, 2007 - 03:26pm PT
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Bradzz: "...a rescue/rigging pulley, you know the ones that you put on sharp ledges/edges that have a small metal stand that supports a pulley so the rope does not rub on the sharp edge of the rock."
You mean an 'edge roller'.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
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not an:
but a bigger framed pulley.. a Prusik Minding Pulley
with some care, the pulley will be almost free hanging from the stations, and away from the rock. The wings help stop it from twisting too. We need the largest diameter we can get tho.. and might make a custom set of wings for the big rescue pulley we have now.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 27, 2007 - 02:45am PT
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I just watched your video Brad... sorry it took so long. ;)
I'M IN!! Very inspiring!
It'll be good to see Chris again and climb and meet you guys. You look super strong! You should ditch the metal and wheels, though... haa haa. Light and fast, you are strong!
You should meet my buddy Sean O'Neill.
I hope to help to make your dream come true, brotha.....
Cheers matey!!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2007 - 10:10pm PT
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Light and fast agreed.. we started out the way the paras can climb.. but the seating has to be more supportive for me to breath and have clean pulls. But, we are cutting weight all the time.
Have been in touch with sean – mostly about getting back down!
End of sept.. will plan for two weeks there.
Thanks, bz
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 28, 2007 - 03:43pm PT
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Gotcha! The wheels won't be touching the wall 90% of the wall. Are they easily removable?
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