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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 28, 2006 - 01:24am PT
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RM-
You said . . .
"But to get the highest valuation, it would be best to have the original packaging. ...got the white plastic bag with the cotton drawstring, that those boots came in? Plus, make sure you collect some provenance."
Actually, after all the EB talk I think they are the molded EB (uh-oh). I’m keeping them anyway. Never intended to sell them. I’m pretty sure they are in the original bag. It has been some time since I’ve seen them, buried deep in the garage in a box somewhere. “Hey babe, have you seen my old climbing equipment box? You didn’t sell it in the garage sale did you? . . . You did what !!??”
You replied . . .
"The slack chains were frequently walked Back in the Day. But, even more on the 'circuit' though was the steel pipe used as a car-retainer that runs from the Bat Crack boulder, due South. Walking back-and-forth on that was a regular warmup. Usually done in EBs (or PAs), one of the usual tricks was a one-footed 180° or, better, a 360° piroette. Much more inertia than the chain! :o) And verra slippery!"
Very cool. Great history. I’ll have to try the steel pipe sometime soon. I still think that the heavy chains at the top are very challenging. Low mass chain, wire, webbing, little inertia - easy to walk. A fixed, somewhat in place steel pole, I would think is similar to walking a steel chain-link fence pole on top – not so bad. That high mass chain however, gives and swings more than a pole and has a mind of it’s own and yet because of it’s high mass (inertia) you can’t get it to move fast enough to recover, and there we go pitched into the void. Great fun though.
the "circuit" . . .
If you are inclined to write-up the classic or most often done Stonemaster circuit for Mt. Rubidoux plus any other games involved (slack chaining what-have-you) that would be awesome. It would work toward the primary purpose of ST, and I’m sure many would want to know besides myself. It would be great to work on it, experience it.
". . . he [John Muir] would have been sixty-two. And we know that no one can boulder after the age of 45! (Right, guys?)"
Great I’ve got just 2 years left (LOL).
Hey, I met Galen Rowell bouldering in Happy Boulders early in the a.m. in August a year before he left this earth way too soon. He was 61 then. He was pulling down 10s and 11s easily. And he ran all the way up the trail with a bouldering pad on his back. Man he was a fire plug. Broccoli, climbing and running were some of his secrets to youth.
A few summers ago my family was in Ouray, CO, and while soaking in the giant hot spring pools we watched Jim Donini putting up new sport climbs on the crags above. I didn’t find that out until later though when I went to the mountain shop and inquired about the rock climbing guidebook to Ouray. “There isn’t any. That was Jim Donini putting up new routes with a few friends.” Now how old is Jim these days (60 something)?
A close friend of mine Jerry Mahoney is 79 and he just flew 77 miles from Horseshoe Meadows to Round Valley NW of Bishop in his Hang Glider, 2 years ago. He said he had to at least fly his age. Flying Owens in the Spring and Summer is active, exciting air, and can be exhausting.
And of course there’s Becky . . .
And yet another inspiration Jack Lalanne . . .
http://www.jacklalanne.com/
Hey, I say NGU. These guys are all very inspirational. I hope I can maintain similar fitness when I’m their age. I sure have enjoyed all your stories. Keep them coming please.
To the Stonemasters --- NGU.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 28, 2006 - 01:28am PT
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Okay, here's a medium sized pic of Suicide circa 1977. Let me know if I need to downsize it further for folks here. It's not the whole print, I can't really scan an 11x17 on my scanner, but it's the main dish. If you want to see a large size version so you can play count the people, go here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/1970suicide_large.jpg
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 28, 2006 - 02:46am PT
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I always wondered about the tree on log ledge. That would have been something to see fall!
The lines are real distinct or at least the features. Sundance dihedral, drain pipe. The bulge/headwall on Caliente. GoGo ledge, pirate, Sampson, Delia, David. The hook at the lip of piasano. The little grove in Serpentine. The last pitch of surprise just above that other picture you’re looking for. Let alone the all the south face.
Nice shot!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 28, 2006 - 03:46am PT
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Indeed! Great shot. Makes me feel like I'm at home. Starts way left, just shy of the Great Pretender and goes all the way right to Hair Lip. Even has the My Obsession boulder below the Smooth Sole walls. Very cool.
Gramicci: Dude, I'm growing old here while I wait for exhibit "R"...
The Log Ledge tree. I've seen two climbers fall from the traverse on the second of Sundance, get dropped (pre device) and land on that tree. And they both left under their own power, although I believe one of them broke an ankle or something. Amazing that at a minimum they didn't get skewered by the branches. Ricky, I think I recall you being in the vicinity when one of the falls occured.
How about the fun sparring that used to occur between the Rubidoux/Woodson boys? A letter was once sent to Epperson that had two grains of sand taped to a piece of paper, and written below them something simple like "These are Rubidoux bivy holds". (bvb?) Oh yeah, and what was the name of that KP tennis shoe problem? 10b On the Outside, or something like that?
Good places, good people.
KP: Touch a sore spot did we? Are you actually threatening me? All I can say is, if you're going to jump in with the piranas you better be a shark.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:38am PT
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Stonemaster Stories Part IV (a.k.a., The Planet Beneath the Stonemasters or something like that... [grin])
has turned nasty with all this shoe talk. Now, boys...
And since someone--uptread--mentioned the John Harlin (The Third) guidebook, this image from that book is noteworthy in only two respects, 1) the wearing of Gallenkamp Scats, and 2) the location, Power Pack on Joe Brown.
From The Climber's Guide to North America--West Coast Rock Climbs, John Harlin III ©1984. [ISBN 0-9609452-2-9] (Photo was probably taken in 1983.)
A favorite quote from that book: "In contrast to The Beach and Stoney Point, Rubidoux is clean and a pleasant place to hang out for the day." (Maybe that was because I took him there in the Spring, and he never saw it the other ninty percent of the time!)
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G_Gnome
Gym climber
The Big City
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Feb 28, 2006 - 12:28pm PT
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Dave Hauser wore and actually liked the Chinese Shoe fake EBs. We always assumed that his wife would no longer let him spend $40 for a pair of EBs. 'CS Special' at JT was put up in those things and while most people think it means 'Climbing Shoe Special' we really know if means 'Chink Shoe Special'. Dave quit climbing a long time ago but after about 5 years of retirement Waugh and I got him out to JT for a weekend. He shows up with the same shoes (we even offered him some Fire's to try) and proceeds to walk up Count Dracula out at Belle. I sure wish he still climbed!
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Feb 28, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
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At least the 'CS' don't mean the same thing as the Concerto route on Manure Pile...that's what I would have assumed.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 28, 2006 - 02:41pm PT
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Oooh. That's a bad mnkey. BAD mnkey!
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 28, 2006 - 08:07pm PT
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I was quoted, in an old interview, about the Stonemaster thing:
Robs: Naw. It was never like that. If you had the moxie, you were a Stonemaster. No dues, no cards, no club. Just a wry poke at the mountaineering clubs of the past...
Then an old buddy of ours, Gunnar Swanson, reminded me by e-mail that there actually were some card-carrying Stonemasters. At the Chart House in Fern Valley, he had jokingly asked how--he too--could become a member. (...probably was as drunk as we were. Or, it might have been Baker in the Forest.):
Gunnar: Hey, you issued ME a card. It has the lightning bolt and "Stonemaster" in ball point pen plus "Where is the bathroom?" in at least a half dozen languages and an airline logo preprinted. It must have been from a deck of cards. Western Airlines (the only way to fly) I believe.
Largo, do you remember what was on the "calling cards" that Gramicci left on the bolts on New Gen? Gramicci?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 28, 2006 - 08:24pm PT
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henny, that KP problem is called "5.10a on the outside". it's more like V5//B1/woodson 5.11c/whatever. it's pretty hard. and i've got a picture oif you on it, 1987 or so.......with your mutton chops and handlebar stash...heh
my favorite story about that problem (being a soCal flyweight) was how christian griffith zeroed out on it during the 1986 great western bouldering championship...this during the height of the lycra boom when his mug was all over the mags doing 5.13 "sport routes..."
good thing for him that contest wasn't at roubidoux, it coulda got REALLY embarrasing for him....
{even though our hard woodson slabs make those training-wheel jug-hauls at roobeedoo look LIGHT.)
head first in the bushes
slipstream
top secret file
we got it ALL going on, babe!
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 28, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
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I didn’t remember the cards in the bolts until JL mentioned it. What a flash back. They only had our names on them. Sorry, no official cards back then but the chart house thing sounds funny though.
Good idea I’ll make a card tomorrow that says Stonemaster and leave them on surprise when I do the next no hands ascent:-)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:46pm PT
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bvb. I stand corrected, though not humbled. There's a problem that Jonny Woodward bagged in the Rubidoux Wild West that KP had been working. To yank KP, Jonny named it 10b on the outside. Seems I got the two mixed up. 10a, 10b, whats the difference?
That is a great story about the 86 contest. There were probably several problems at Woodson that could have done same thing though. What am I saying. There ARE several problems down there that WOULD have done the same thing. 13a sport climber can't do 10a. Wow, dig that.
Dude, is that the best you can do?
head first: nope. slipstream: yeap (d#mn). top secret: don't know.
I won't even bother picking three problems at Rubidoux. Any three will serve the purpose.
I'm not too sure I would go around talking smack if I couldn't ride a bike that had training wheels...
roobeedoo, eh? Hey babe, I'm still ready to go into your house. You still ready to come into mine?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:54pm PT
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still got game, babe. did pinkbug last time i was there, winter before last. it'd be a hoot to get the slabaddicts out there one more time before we get old.......maybe kp wil break out his eb stash so we can all relearn how to edge.........
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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OK. The pinkbug will do. Truce for now.
Next time you show at Rubidoux you best be dialing some of us prior to the event. We'd have a guaranteed hoot. (Wouldn't it be cool to swing a day at Woodson also?)
We'll wear Powell's EBs no matter where we go. That way nobody gets an advantage.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Sound’s like High noon to me!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Grammicci,
no lie, these guys play ruff!
I'm clearin' outa this thread!!
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Gramicci said: ...leave them on surprise when I do the next no hands ascent:-)
You mean that Surprise has been DONE no hands? Really??
Come on, Mike. Deliver up Exhibit "R"! We're still waiting... [grin]
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I'm beginning to wonder if exhibit "R" really exists...
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Me too, i can't find it! YET
I don’t think I was hallucinating, although this thread has been quite a flash back
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Helen
Boulder climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Hi, Werner,
Greg MacGillivray (Wild California) gave us your name.
We are preparing a feature film that may require your expert climbing/rigging skills. Unfortunately, Greg's office didn't have contact information for you so we've just been searching...
Please contact us at (310) 453-9277.
Thank you!
Helen
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