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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
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Nice shots Phil!
The rest this weekend...
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jun 24, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
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What a great thread!
I didn't even know there was a summit register or to be truthful; my memory
is lacking of late, so I can't remember if I signed the thing or not.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jun 24, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
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Phil... Perhaps the most amazing thing in your recent shots is a picture of Barry! I have perhaps a dozen shots of him from the mid-70s on the approach to Watkins and bouldering in the Meadows and that is it. Everytime I ask people if they have shots of him from days gone by the answer is always the same...
If you have more let's see them!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jun 24, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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PhilG, that pitch in your photo went free in the early to mid 70's at around 11ab or something if I remember correctly.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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Ten more pages just posted...nine more left after that!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 24, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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Steve, why not post them a few at a time, at the end of the thread, to keep it bumped to its proper place? Or perhaps add them to the first post, so it eventually contains everything, but also bump with a few at a time, which you remove when you post the next bunch. Or something like that.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Jun 25, 2011 - 01:13am PT
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For a little while there it was all the rage with the G&E Buff crew,
C. Jennings, Black, Black, Roberts (bldrjack), Hanbury, Bartlett plus
semi honorary member Steve Eddy. Dave Black, Al Bartlett and Steve Eddy
were among my very first partners, along with Guck.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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Small world with a lot of people funneling through the Great Chimney!
The SS is certainly the most enduring early Golden Age route!
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jun 25, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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After reading this-- I want to go back up there and do it again! Funny I don't remember signing the register, but I guess this thread proves my memory sucks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
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Join the club...LOL
Tom Frost got a laugh when I reminded him that he did the Steck- Salathé with Tex Bossier on 5/30/75.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
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Since this thread is keeper...The Al Steck account of the 1950 first ascent of the Steck- Salathé, Ordeal By Piton, is an all-time classic! This version appeared in Galen Rowell's Vertical World of Yosemite.
Ed Cooper photo.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
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June 7, 1963
Bob Tripp
Herb Steiner - N.E. Arete
professors of physics, UCB....
Bob Tripp
Herb Steiner
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 25, 2011 - 05:46pm PT
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Bummer I never saw, nor ever looked for, that summit register. I probably climbed Sentinel five or six time by 1973 and never once saw that register. I remember finding a register on top of Middle Cathedral after doing the DNB with Will Tyre in 1972, and another time on top of Arrowhead Arete with Phil Gleason - who is all over this Sentinel registry - but I never saw another one anywhere. I think it's a great tradition and should be brought back on places like Lost Arrow, etc.
I still wonder how Carson did the Dogleg crack on the West Face, clean, and solo, back in 1973. I must have done that climb like ten times trying to free it and never seemed to get much of anything in the Dog Leg for pro - not with the old Hexes. Must have been tripy solo, sans pro.
JL
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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Jun 26, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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John,
I agree with your idea of bringing back summit registers on some of the routes. The first time I did the Arrow tip in '67 there was a summit register I don't know how long after that it stayed in place, but that would be a great piece of history to see. The time capsule element is what I find most fascinating. Seeing peoples' signatures, dates and short comments about their ascent seems to make those ascents come alive again in a way that reading about them in a book, magazine or internet article can't touch. History certainly doesn't end with a first ascent; seeing a wall's history condensed into 20 or 30 pages is really something special. It would be great to be reading the Sentinel summit register 40 years from now and see Alex Honnold's name along with a his comments about free soloing Chouinard-Herbert. Just as interesting will be the names and comments of the hundreds of people who will climb Sentinel in the next 40 years and all have their own personal adventures.
Barry
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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When Tom lead the first Dog-leg Crack on the FA, Chouinard said in his AAJ route description,“Frost made the finest lead I have ever seen up an 80-foot long 8-inch wide jam crack with only a wooden block for protection.”
A wooden block! Way out there!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 26, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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some of the old registers are still out there, and when you find them it sure is a marvelous read...
Pohono Pinnacle, top of the Ski Jump above Andy's Inferno... I worry that they might be attractive objects, however...
...I've taken to making photos of the pages when I run across them... catch-and-release policy... and also to have some sort of pencil in my kit to sign them....
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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Jun 26, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
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Ed,
I found a summit register on top of the Owl Cliff in the early 70s it was a 35mm film can with Frank Sacherer Glen Denny and some other names from that period, late 50s early 60s. I don't remember what route it was for but it seemed an unlikely place for a register to show up. I don't know what ever happened to it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
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I already have my hands full historically but the Golden State Registry would be a fascinating project for an information hound. It would take a formal project to get the registers out of private hands to be documented. That would really be the crux of the biscuit. Without the concerted efrort of the Sierra Club in placing proper summit registers this one wouldn't have come into being. They come in all manner of sizes and condition.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jun 26, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
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HA! Well this is kind of fun....seeing my name in the register after all these years. I do seem to remember that all of us (Dave "Cool Head" Black, Jimmi Black, Dave Hanbury, Greg and Craig Jennings, Michael Graber, Alan "Big Al" Bartlett, Steve Eddy, ) had a thing about Seninel. I climbed the Wet Face about three times with various partners as well as the Salathe-Steck, Gobi Wall, Chouinard-Herbert, tried to do the second ascent of In Cold Blood but retreated instead with chopped ropes............Summit registers are a tradition that should be maintained.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 26, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
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I'm with Barry - reading these makes us all time travelers, whereby the register is a kind of magic lamp that once rubbed, evokes some of the actual life of the thing. A strange but powerful mojo. I'd love to see a book made of choice pages from registers around various US crags, with modern day photos and short anecdotes from those listed. Quite a research project but what an interesting kind of time capsule.
JL
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