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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Feb 21, 2006 - 12:17pm PT
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Thanks for the support Melissa.I'll keep putting them up if you'll keep climbing them - Eric
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 24, 2010 - 08:26pm PT
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WOOOOOHOOOOOOOO!
More Grounded up.
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R.B.
climber
..
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Apr 24, 2010 - 10:04pm PT
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Old thread bump story.
I have placed many bolts on routes that I have established on lead. Not only did I lead from the ground up, but I drilled 3/8" rawl self drives in way hard granite. Sometimes it took over an hour to drill a hole.
The gig with the '80's ethics was at the time, to place a bolt along the natural line, from the ground up. Sometimes while standing on slopy or greasy holds, one would have to use a hook and an aider or sling to "augment" the foot while it smeared on the dish or dime thin edge.
Then ... Euro-Style ethics came vogue, and people were rap bolting everything with bosches and the routes often were plumb lines of 5-10 foot spaced bolted routes.
After reflecting on the whole process, it is important to have the vision of the finished project in mind when doing a route.
Doing a route on lead, ground up, stance or hook, what is important is that the route flows the natural line ... not the forced line.
I have climbed routes where I climbed 20-30 feet up 5.12 thin face-smears ... got so damn scared, that I couldn't stand or hook, and had to then "DOWNCLIMB" the same 5.12 to catch a rest on the bolt below. Then climb back up and try again, then downclimb again. It is a drag when you hit a brick wall.
Bolting with (power)drills illegal in National Parks and Wilderness areas ... so what you have left is hand drilling.
Nothing more fun than having your feet burn from standing on a dime thin edge stance while hand drilling for over an hour! Yipee!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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yup
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Hand drilled many a hole on the sharp end. All of them 3/8ths x 2 1/4 or 2 3/4 depending on which bolts I had. I hand drilled a bunch of 3 1/2 anchors.. haND drilling sucks!! the weight of the bosch makes it harder to free climb but damn is it nice to fire in that big fatty when you need it!
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ec
climber
ca
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tradmanclimbs,
Damn, dude! I'd never climb with the drill like that. 'Much prefer to pull it up on the tag line. Use a fifi to hang it on the bolts enroute...
 ec
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Damn, dude! I'd never climb with the drill like that. 'Much prefer to pull it up on the tag line. Use a fifi to hang it on the bolts enroute...
No kidding. The bits on power drills are scary. The thought of getting speared by one gives me the willies. I've led with one, but always with it well below me.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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killer shot Ron! thx!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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holy leg power batman!
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bob
climber
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How the f%@ck!?!?!?!?!? That's the whackiest stance I've seen.
Dan looks like he's that monkey guy from India who climbs that stone wall and inverts himself and all sorts of other stuff.
Thanks Ron
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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the OP was in reference to the route: Old Hippy Buttress 5.10a at Knob Hill in Yosemite Valley... I forget which bolt it was, could have been the 4th, the one after the crux...
this route is above the normal p1 tree belay for all those routes below, and on the same ledge that Knob Hill Ropist and Deception Gully start on, over to climber's left.
Can't believe that was more than 6 years ago
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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^^^
Myself, Kev and some dude from Colorado reapeated that rig a few years ago...
Kev sandbagged the Visitor with tales of *** climbing and fat bolts.
BWHAAHAhAHHA!!!
Later on that day, as Kev and I were doing reps of 12oz curls at the generator, Homey sent the wyde, Onsight, on Lead with a #6 he did not use.
I just dropped the belay on the floor, grabbed another brew and watched him send.
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Rudbud
Gym climber
CA
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Is there anyone out there that would like to do a slab route ground up hand drilled at courtright? No one I know has the time or the balls to do such a thing. Ive eyed a few lines up there that would be fun.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I did tag it up to there and had just fired one in. I get sick of all the shenagins and end up hanging it on my arse sooner or later. i did take a pretty good whip with the drill a few min after that shot was taken.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Those Dano shots are so cool. Thanks for sharing Ron, seems that guy could do it all.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Rudbud, when?
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Rudbud
Gym climber
CA
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This Sat and Sun Munge, The good one I eyed is going to be about 3 pitches, the first 2 look like crack, the last one will be slab, and its a little hike to get there.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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"and it is a little hike to get there" Sweet! I take this to mean a 3 hr bushwhack ;)
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Mar 12, 2013 - 12:33am PT
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