Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
pighumper
climber
Marin
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2006 - 10:20pm PT
|
"As climbing area's go, I would say Joshua Tree has better pro than say Yosemite or TM. I have done way more dangerous climbs in the valley"
I always felt the opposite... everytime I placed a piece in a flaring JT crack.
|
|
canadian-climber
Mountain climber
Victoria British Columbia
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2006 - 10:55pm PT
|
Hay just got back J tree today I was wondering if anyone knew about the young guy that decked out on the spider last Sat?? is he OK ??
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
|
canadian-climber, look at Werner's JT accident thread. The climber unfortunately didn't make it. A coworker of his did a short writeup.
|
|
Texplorer
Trad climber
Las Vegas
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 01:04am PT
|
What is stupider. . . Belaying like the pic above or hauling up a car seat like the pic below
|
|
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 03:08am PT
|
"What is stupider. . . Belaying like the pic above or hauling up a car seat like the pic below"
Being a Californian and enjoying the shitty air quality and paved landscapes?
|
|
Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 03:26am PT
|
Last week I saw the ocean from my house, 56 miles away. Not bad for "sh*tty air quality". As I sit here now at midnight, I can see city lights over 40 miles away from my living room.
From my back door, I can make my way all the way to the Colorado River (200 miles) on all dirt roads, and only cross 5 paved roads. Not exactly "paved landscape" if you ask me.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 04:47am PT
|
Karsten - great shot! Strange looking. Roads are laid out like a Paradise Valley subdivision with rocks where houses should be. Pretty posh looking...
|
|
Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 05:35am PT
|
Healyje,
You gotta make it down to Josh. The climbing is mostly one-pitch stuff, but the scenery will blow you away.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 09:19am PT
|
Would love to some time. Usually buckled down working in the winter though so I can play in the summer/fall...
Will give a shout if I ever break away and make it down.
|
|
ladd
Trad climber
land of fruits, nuts and flakes
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
|
HK.. nice thread pic - brings back great memories!
Hey, how about that good ole Judas route just underneath Toejam. Judas - starts out up a nice crack to very sketchy edging (at least back when all we had were RR's and EB's) then the longggg traverse to the right (LOL, no falling allowed) - it just made it so much easier (mentally) to finally get/have a #4 Friend to protect it well. Talk about protecting the second from what would be a terrible pendy, Judas was a classic on jamming, edging, protecting the traverse for the second with more jam/undercling. I'll bet Judas is not too often climb these days - is it? From the pic - those belay anchors, where the bonehead leader is belaying the second, were never meant for Toejam. No, they were originally intended as anchors for climbing Judas and Bearded Cabbage! Toejam was suppose to continue straight up - not traverse right?
cheers
|
|
Murf
climber
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 12:36pm PT
|
Judas is the direct start to Toe Jam ( 5.10b ). The route which does the crack start to Judas and then continues right on bolts is Chongo Bolt Route ( 5.11- ).
The bolts are basically a rap route which doesn't interfere with any of the routes.
Murf
|
|
JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 12:58pm PT
|
Thanks Locker.
Who invented nOOb?
Jeff
|
|
426
Sport climber
Buschville, TN
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
|
I think you'd do well by dialing in your crack without ropes on stuff like False Up 20, Pinhead, etc. Try Peabrain (old's'cool 5.11) while thinking about how you'd 'pertect' it on lead...
Dialing in your 'technique' by hopping on "T.S. Special" or EBGBs isn't exactly a balm for all of us...
|
|
looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
|
The rappel anchors were not placed as anchors for Bearded Cabbage, but purely as a rap route.
Since more than a few people seem to be exercising very poor judgment about the belay (and some people on jtclimbing were advocating for drastic measures to protect these people from themselves), I've emailed the publisher and was able to change the description for Toe Jam in the new guide (out in March):
1927. Toe Jam (5.7) ** Start on the left side of the east face. Go up a short curving crack to a right-slanting crack system; then up the thin crack that ends just before reaching a large belay ledge (natural anchors). Pro: To 2.5 inches. Do not belay from the rappel anchor to the right (dangerous for second). FA: Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff, Gary Hemming, 11/52.
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Straight Outta J-Tree
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
|
A few years ago Crotch Robbins posted a veritable masterpiece of photo-journalism to rec.climbing.
In fact, it provided much inspiration for this thread:
Copyright 2003 Crotch Robbins (used with permission).
The photo (and its comments) can be viewed here at RC.com.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2006 - 12:58pm PT
|
That is a classic belay .....
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:02pm PT
|
Yes, the ever popular "bump and grind" belay...
|
|
crotch
climber
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:03pm PT
|
Werner,
The belay is only the half of it. Check out the screamers.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
|
Yes must have screamers, isn't there some guy way back there in the back ground sceaming at the leader?
|
|
matisse
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:13pm PT
|
So much to love about this photo.
What does the belayer think will happen if the leader falls? that he will explode, spraying human shrapnel?
I especially love the look of intense concentration on the face of the leader.
and the gloves. I had not noticed his gloves before.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!