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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Apr 30, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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I skipped a bunch of posts in the middle, so forgive me if this has already been said.
What is the psychology behind the phenomenon of people deciding to chop old, established stuff? Like Wharton with Maestri's route on Cerro Torre, or this Central Pillar of Frenzy example. Or heck, I guess it does not even have to be limited to old routes. Like Robbins with The Wall of the Early Morning Light or the new Half Dome route (I can't find its name).
Does it have something to do with us all saying out of one cheek that we must obey a rigid set of ethical standards, and out of the other cheek that climbing has no rules and we are free to do what we want? Maybe those who are unsure of themselves and have the most need to seek approval or recognition, are easily influenced by those who are the most fervantly outspoken. I'm not really sure, but it bugs the heck out of me.
I know that I certainly went through a phase, early in my climbing career, when I thought any route which I did not personally enjoy should be chopped. Does everyone experience that? Do we get past it when we develop confidence in ourselves and where we fit into the world?
BTW, how long was that bolt on Serenity Crack? I've climbed it several times, but it has been a few years. Was it a newer addition or has my memory just faded?
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
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Apr 30, 2008 - 12:35am PT
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Ban all climbing up there in the YO semite and youll not have all these silly things being said. Less destruction of the natural resources the better.. Can I still ride my Atv in the desert though????
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Sean Jones
climber
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Apr 30, 2008 - 01:39am PT
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Most people only do the first five. bottom line. Most people will always only do the first five. Bottom line. The bolts will reappear. Bottom line. Please do yourself and the rest of us a favor. Don't make more of a mess out of something that's already a mess. Maybe you should bring a big tube of concrete patch and try to fix up all the nasty pin scars while you're at it. That will look about as asthetic as the chopped bolts. Just my opinion.
Sean.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 30, 2008 - 03:10am PT
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"I was there! I just had to leave around 8 for another obligation. Fatty cooked me a fish and gave me some Lettuce too (not the hippy kind)
next time "
Bummer, dude! I must have *jsut* missed you! Next time, for sure!!!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 03:33am PT
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Note: Nobody chopped this Central Pillar bolts. This is an old thread that cropped back up when the Serenity crack 1st pitch bolt reappeared after having been chopped a few years back
peace
karl
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