Smoke Blanchard

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Oct 18, 2011 - 03:12pm PT

yes, I hadn't used the Dulfersitz in a long time and got it wrong in that instance, as scuffy wisely points out.. but I think I got it right other times....

http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/FAQ_Dulfersitz.htm

Illustration by Mike Clelland From Climbing Ice, Duane Raleigh, 1995

Zander

climber

Oct 24, 2011 - 06:50pm PT

Hey Ed,
Thanks for posting about the course and inspiring others to post their pics. Looks like fun. Gary told me you all had a good time.

Take care,
Zander

Batrock

Trad climber

Burbank

Oct 24, 2011 - 08:17pm PT

I just bought Smoke's book, can't wait to get it.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Jan 2, 2012 - 01:09am PT

a video
Smoke's Rock Course

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Jan 2, 2012 - 02:03am PT

The Pain Index will let you know if you've got your Dulfie correct. Done correctly, they're not too bad. You just gotta remember to go really slow.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Mar 10, 2012 - 01:57pm PT

Who doesn't need a couple of new facets on the old Gemstones! LOL

tom woods

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Mar 10, 2012 - 02:36pm PT

That picture of Paul soloing up the brown patina thing reminds me of one of my favorite days up there. It was snowing lightly and I was all jazzed on that wall of 21 cracks right there. I wandered up to what I thought was a cool chimney and found that Patina wall that Paul is on. I climbed it and found the jump off on the backside to be most entertaining.

I was by myself, in light snow, the kind that doesn't stick much but looks awesome as it falls. I went up expecting one thing, and found another. Classic buttermilk.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jul 27, 2012 - 04:42pm PT

A friend recently gave me a copy of Smoke Blanchard's book "Walking Up and Down in the World: Memories of a Mountain Rambler." Is it anything particularly novel or interesting? I thought perhaps I could bring it to the FaceLift, and maybe give it to someone who knew or has an interest in Blanchard. Or simply sell it to someone in exchange for a donation to the YCA?

No sign of Hannah yet. Bump.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

bouldering

Jul 27, 2012 - 06:41pm PT

A friend recently gave me a copy of Smoke Blanchard's book "Walking Up and Down in the World: Memories of a Mountain Rambler." Is it anything particularly novel or interesting?

That's a good book. You should read it.

Doug Tomczik

climber

Bishop

Jul 27, 2012 - 06:44pm PT

You should read it.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jul 27, 2012 - 08:19pm PT

Well, yes - that was always part of the plan. Read it, see how it goes. But maybe I'll want to pass it on.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jul 28, 2012 - 12:06am PT

Thanks for putting together the video Ed Hartouni!
Fun music choices to boot.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Mar 3, 2013 - 01:27pm PT

Where there's Smoke there's...FUN!

mechrist

Gym climber

South of Heaven

Mar 3, 2013 - 01:36pm PT

Such a blast that! Reminds me of some of the stuff down in Cochise (Inner Passage or something).

After topping out whatever Sharp's leads to I heard a crazy whimper. I looked around and Rick, my buddies heeler, contemplating a 20' jump with over 100' of vertical consequences. We had left him down in the valley and he "knew his way around." No idea how he made it as far as he did, but there he was... crazy pup.

Peter Haan

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, CA

Mar 3, 2013 - 01:47pm PT

Heelers are so bold and intrepid, aren't they. They are found frequently in the back of carpenters' pickups here in California at least. They look just cute as hell but if you transgress over the rail of the truck bed, they often will semi-bite you and warn you off of Daddy's rig. Hilarious. Love them.

I would remind everybody that Smoke's book is a really good read; don't miss it. Easily bought online used for about $4 too.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Dec 28, 2013 - 07:38pm PT

Sierra Icon bump...

Greg Barnes

climber

Jul 7, 2014 - 02:26pm PT

Smoke bump!

Here's a strange question: is anyone collecting gear for a Bishop/Eastside climbing collection? And if the answer is yes, would anyone be interested in Smoke's snow tent stakes which he used in Alaska (my mom thinks late '60s/very early '70s)? My mom bought his tent (the 4-person red pyramidal one if anyone remembers) in the '70s and we used it until it disintegrated (decades ago), but I just found the tent snow stakes in her garage.

Let me know if so and I'll send them to you (or give them to a local to hand off) -

Greg

PS OK, I took a photo too:

A-Train

climber

Jul 7, 2014 - 04:34pm PT

Smoke Blanchard was the first climber I ever heard about when I was 19 years old (many, many years ago). I learned to climb from his nephew at the University of Oregon outdoor program. Smoke was an absolute legend! More stories please!