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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
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So Tim - is his comment about taking draws the norm in the Colorado Springs area true? Given you know him at least in passing, do you think he is a thieving tool or just driven by the alleged Colorado Springs' area ethics (or something in between)?
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
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I think it's funny they told him where there is an apparent motherlode of draws on another wall.
What they should have said when he hit the ground...
Yur Gonna Die!!!!!!!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
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Not on a 5.13. At Smith. You don't steal draws off that grade.
You don't touch that Sh*t unless you can climb it. Stealing draws off it? That guy needs as ass whooping.
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phillygoat
climber
portland,
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:44pm PT
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If you're going to be against hanging draws at Smith Rock due to visual impact, you'd better not use chalk. The draws in the video are not visible unless you're at the base of the cliff. However, the chalk trails of classic routes like Heinous Cling and Dreamin' are visible from the parking lot.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
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5.11 is a solid grade to be climbing at. Do you climb in the valley? Nice...in a 70's nostalgic sort of way. A lot has happened in climbing since Astroman went free in the mid 70's - you should look into it sometime.
Disturbingly few here seem to have the gist - Rifle, the Red, Smith, NRG, American Fork - areas with a lot of 12's and 13's - lots of fixed draws. If you don't like it, don't go sport climbing - but first clean up your fixed lines on the Salathe, Nose and Half Dome.
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:47pm PT
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so if you can climb it you can steal it?...
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
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Beer cans and burrito wrappers laying around the base of the cliff aren't visible unless you're standing at the base of the cliff.
If that's the standard for visible blight, lots of things should be overlooked.
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Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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them sorts of fixed draws ain'nt worth stealing anyway..
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
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anyone calling for (or even vaguely suggesting) the state park system of oregon to decide what is litter is a fool.
why don't you just add some 30 weight oil to that slippery slope?
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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Thanks for bringing it back to reality, Tami.
This guy knew he was stealing that gear. If you feel otherwise fine. but you are in the minority and deserve to be ignored.
certainly we can argue ethics on if they should or should not be there. but we should do it amongst climbers and keep "The Man" out like we always try to do when it becomes an ethical question.
If this guy has a problem with fixed draws then he should have voiced his opinion instead of being a lowlife.
he's lucky he didn't get beat.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
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Posting it on Mountain Project would be interesting too. I'd be annoyed if I were a Colorado Spring climber personally.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
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Well said Nature. So true.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
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Come on nature. I want to talk about it being a red point if the gear is already fixed. LOL..
Is that true? Me no climby 5.bazillion and don't know the rules. Can we start applying those rules to trad climbing?
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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fixed or not, john, for you, i'll look the other way and call it "on sight!"
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
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Saaa weet. Yall better watch out. I've got my eye on toe jam. I will be projecting it, so will be leaving lots of gear.
LEAVE IT THE HECK ALONE!!!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
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Leaving draws doesn't "take over" the route. If it's your warm-up and nobody is there, have at it. If it's maybe 12b or so or less, that's a grade quite a few people climb and your draws may end up missing after a few days. I've found in general that projecting easier than 12c is looked at as kind of poser - you're not ready to project routes yet. Harder than that is a big difference. Nobody hangs draws off the harness for 13's, nor do many 13's get their draws stolen off them. Hanging draws takes a lot of energy away from the climbing. Yap and wank all you want over it - but that's the game. If you prefer the much different game of climbing 5.8 trad routes and those rules make more sense to you, have at it.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
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a little beta for that route. place the last cam at least 15' from the top and then head over to the bolted anchors and belay from there. maybe you can get Weld_it to follow. he's solid.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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arguing what grade is ok to leave draws and at what grade it isn't seems a little silly to me.
it's about respect. it's also about local ethics. have we lost the ability to understand either/both?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
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arguing what grade is ok to leave draws and at what grade it isn't seems a little silly to me. Not arguing - just my observation of how things are.
I'm generally fine with how things are - occasional missing draws to keep things in check included.
However - this guy should have been shot, but that's just the tough guy e-thug in me talking.
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