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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 26, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
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Jello was under the weather for a while, but I spoke to him 2 days ago and he sounded better.
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plund
Social climber
OD, MN
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Oct 26, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
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up we go......
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Broken
climber
Texas
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Oct 27, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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Bump for commitment, beauty, and inspiration.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Oct 27, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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Nice thread Jim,
This near miss on the summit in no way takes away from what is clearly
a very impressive push. Hats off to you guys.
Doug
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Oct 27, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
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Thanks Jim for posting this! "Wow" would be an understatement. The picture of the seracs is just daunting.
These questions were asked..
How about some history. Who's plan was it to climb Latok1? Logistical issues? Pre game drama? The story of the climb etc.
I also want to know whose plan it was. We look forward to hearing from you when you get back from the desert.
Please don't give up on these trip reports. A lot of us go back and dig for them.
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Oct 28, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
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Easier to bitch back and forth about why or why not add a new bolt to a 5.9.
Easier than discussing a simply amazing climb where everyone gave their all (which was a lot obviously) and didn't think it all that special to do so. Most (me included) just don't understand the effort and skill involved.
Proud line and effort. This one picture tells much of the story if you look hard enough.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Oct 28, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
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So how many years later and this route still incomplete, not even an ascent to Jim's high point, and also news today of a serious attempt on Southern Belle, it begets the question:
Are climbers really that much better today than they were 20 or 30 or 40 or 50 years ago ?
These routes require a state of mind that few will ever achieve.
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kubok!3
climber
My truck
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Oct 29, 2010 - 12:12am PT
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Wow! The one of Jim in the ice cave is haunting...
Makes for a good halloween mask!
This forum makes Supertopo worth it for me.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Wow if this story can't stay on the front page I don't think any climbing thread can stay up there. Bump it up anyway.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Nov 11, 2010 - 01:07am PT
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real
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Johnny K.
climber
Southern,California
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Mar 17, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
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Real heros.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 17, 2011 - 04:49pm PT
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I am sure all of us are hoping Jeff's current trip to Switzerland yields success with his film project.
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Mees
climber
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Mar 17, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
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captivating, in 1978 no less. what a bold line, they don't get much better than that. the traverse under the serac photo is freaking puckering!thanks for sharing!
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go-B
climber
Sozo
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Mar 17, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
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You guy's have um!
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Auto-X Fil
Mountain climber
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Nov 26, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
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Bumping political garbage off the main page.
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Knave
Trad climber
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Nov 26, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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These threads are the reason why I keep lurking about at the taco. Vicarious pleasures from the arm chair.
Vitriol free climbing content! Thanks for the bump.. I think I'll bump another climbing thread.
Peace to all the Red and Blue dichotomous folks!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Nov 26, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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That first photo is fantastic!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Nov 27, 2011 - 12:34am PT
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My niece, Greg's daughter Anita, is currently interviewing the four main characters as well as those who played a supporting role in this climb. She's not a climber but the tales and legends surrounding Latok have captivated her. Anita is quite frankly brilliant, and though only 23 I'm marvelling at the sample writings she's shared with me. Although she's going into med school soon, I know she'll complete a book that does justice to this great experience.
-Jello
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damage
Social climber
olympia, wa
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Nov 27, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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bump.
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because yeah, I agree with Knave
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"These threads are the reason why I keep lurking about at the taco. Vicarious pleasures from the arm chair."
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