Unclimbed big wall in northern california

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Aug 27, 2010 - 05:26pm PT

Stonewalker, is it steep enough at the top to be BASE jumped? I don't have any intention. But since it is probably on FOrest service land, it is probably legal (rare thing to find). Landing zones look... tight.

Blakeb

Gym climber

Southern Oregon, behind her

Aug 27, 2010 - 06:06pm PT

Whats with the talk about what method he is using for drilling? Even from that picture, looks like plenty of crack systems to me. Which brings up another point that maybe some one has climbed it that was humble enough not to announce it and had a decent size sack and didnt leave any trace of their passing?

Either way, looks tight, hope you guys have a fun adventure on sunday!!

Stonewalker

Big Wall climber

Smartsville, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2010 - 06:16pm PT

Hey Chris,

I think there may be an area that would allow BASE jumping, but not entirely sure. Please keep in mind, I'm not a BASE jumper. You're right about the landing, it would be pretty sketchy. If you have some free time I'll give you a tour.

Mason

Trad climber

Yay Area

Aug 27, 2010 - 06:37pm PT

Stonewalker is my new mentor for big walls and we spoke yesterday and he sounds totally legit. Worst thing that could happen is I go north for a joy ride and take a detour to the valley.

goatboy smellz

climber

Nederland

Aug 30, 2010 - 10:19am PT

So did you Dab the Gnarl this weekend?

brotherbbock

Trad climber

Alta Loma, CA

Aug 30, 2010 - 12:36pm PT

More teaser pics please.

Scout 2

Trad climber

Placerville

Aug 30, 2010 - 02:10pm PT

well WE went and saw.a whole lotta Rock we could only see less than half of the potential. there were a few old bolts and a few old rapp slings on trees but there is alot of rock to climb on. and most good quality. we rapped in on 800ft of line from from 200' below the rim.and down climbed 200' of 4th,5th class. So there is at least 1000ft of climbing potential on just the one wall. we were on,around the corner its much higher.
we kind of got rained out befor we got any real climbing in. But we will be back...
There is potential access issues as the top on or near private land.
mike is straight about everything he's said. there are 2000ft cliffs most of it is less. it is remote. and will take work. but the potential is great.
Doug

ps I have better pics on my camera, these are from my phone.will post latter.

Scout 2

Trad climber

Placerville

Aug 30, 2010 - 02:26pm PT

There is lots of rock over the river too.

micronut

Trad climber

fresno, ca

Aug 30, 2010 - 02:28pm PT

Best thread on The Taco in a looong time. Suspense, mystery, name calling, finger pointing, slander, and some potential climbing. The intrigue is rife with potetntial for either an amazing new line on a big new cliff....or a Deliverance type drama that ends in a West Coast manhunt for a serial internet climber killer.

I love this place.

Tony Bird

climber

Northridge, CA

Aug 30, 2010 - 02:54pm PT

at least not a troller, but ya can't blame some of us for jumping on a noob playing "i've got a secret". this guy knew what he was doing. i'm guessing it's been a ploy to generate interest in something rather inconvenient, the real reason he burns through partners.

let's be realistic about that last photo. is that the slab in question or something across the river? it's totally angled--sorry, chris, you're looking at "BASE sliding". maybe 2,000 ft. with a tape measure from (the middle feather?) river to high point, yes, a half mile wide, at least. lots of shrubbery for pro, but when there's too much of that, it seems to stop being rock climbing. if you've tried similar, you know what i'm talking about. several clean faces, probably interesting face route potential, but not easy to get to. for some reason, face climbers hate approaches.

there are lots like this in foothill country up and down the west side. if it's castle rock, it's worth the approach. is this?

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Aug 30, 2010 - 02:56pm PT

There is no pleasing some people.

Mikemcee

Social climber

Mill Valley, CA

Aug 30, 2010 - 03:14pm PT

Hey Tony, BEAT IT! These guys are out there exploring, working on a project, and getting it done. You're spouting rubbish on the internet. Game over.

Tony Bird

climber

Northridge, CA

Aug 30, 2010 - 03:47pm PT

best way to keep me around is to tell me to get the hell out, mikey.

i'm not saying this isn't worth it. i'm not interested and just giving reasons why. yes, i'm being argumentative, and if i'm wrong the OP and scout2 ought to be able to address it. this thing started out on a sneaky foot and it deserves a little cross-examination. all the photos are poor storytellers except the last one, which i think finally puts the cards on the table.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Aug 30, 2010 - 04:20pm PT

well you've said what you think. It's clearly important to you to be right about something silly like whether a rock you've never seen is worth climbing.

How about shutting up now?

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Aug 30, 2010 - 04:23pm PT

Well said Mike, I think its time to give Bird the bird....

Tony Bird

climber

Northridge, CA

Aug 30, 2010 - 04:34pm PT

just so ya know, i've done a bit of this myself. have you?

here's one we looked at for years, a two-pitch face of excellent granite in the san gabriels, probably the best and biggest bit of rock of its kind, closer, geographically, to los angeles than anything comparable. you're looking at about two pitches on the clear face of the leftmost peak in the picture. i invite anyone reading this to haul out there and cover it with FAs. no fair helicopters.

we spent three days on this project once, 90 lb packs with climbing gear, camping gear, two gallons of water each. at least stonewalker's crag has water. we didn't even get close enough to climb. yea, no one could cover the 4th class like peter croft. a few years later, i tried an alternative, direct cross-country approach. all i found was the tallest manzanita you'll ever see--i got through it walking their treetops 15 feet off the ground.

we did get a little climbing on half-pitch "consolation crag", named by virgil shields, who helped cook up this nonsense. here's my crack route, "beauty above me", 5.9, which i doubt will ever see a second ascent.

would i go back there again? hey, if you'll do the hell with me, sure. but i'll bet you wouldn't think it's worth it.