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Freak
Social climber
Yosemite
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Dec 15, 2005 - 09:42pm PT
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You jealous f*#ks!
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Stainless
Social climber
LA, CA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 10:43am PT
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Funny, Freak. Subtle.
Here's a piece I wrote in response to Mick Ryan's positive review of an issue of Rock and Ice on UK Climbing. Someone recently brought to my attention that fact that many of the photographs mentioned, including the Maximum Ghetto shot, have disappeared from Reardon's site. A quick perusal showed this to be true. Since the obvious way to silence critics would be to post another shot from the same ascent (certainly the photographer didn't just shoot one shot on the finishing jug),is this an attempt by Reardon to fuel his controversy even more, or is he trying to cover his tracks?
Mick,
About your review of the latest issue of R&I, c’mon, mate, is R&I paying you for this posting or are you just trying to stir things up with your glowing review of this drivel? I don't generally read this magazine, though I once did, but was quite amazed that after more than 20 years they still barely edit, much less fact check, their rag. It's truly unbelievable.
With only a cursory perusing I noticed many factual errors, most of which could be doubled checked with a 30 second Internet search. Yesterday, I was out bouldering and someone had recently spoken to Wills Young, who's apparently appalled at the inaccuracies about Lisa Rands (his wife). As a constant contributor, his comment that "all they needed to do was give me a call (sic)" doesn't seem like too much to ask for a magazine publishing a "collector's edition."
Other comments, like claiming Tobin Sorenson had made the first free ascent of Astroman could probably have been "fact checked" by taking a simple office poll.
On the Reardon piece, well, I'll admit to laughing but it had more to do with the journalistic incompetence of the author, R&I managing editor, Matt Samet. He claimed to be digging into the controversy about Reardon's ascents, yet instead of asking tough questions he dismisses the said "controversy" with anecdotal evidence that brings up more controversy itself.
For one, the article is titled "Mr. Producer," yet Reardon is not listed as a producer to any of the films he attests to producing except his own low-budget climbing videos. On the film that supposedly made him a fortune he is listed in the credits as an "extra". 6 producers are listed. He is not one of them. It doesn’t seem like a stretch on the part of the reader to desire an attempt to sort this out.
Samet brings up the fact that there aren't pics of Reardon soloing anything hard. This, however, is inaccurate. The weird thing is that all of the pics on hard routes are shot very tight; so close so that it could be almost anywhere. Yet, on easy routes that are well within Reardon’s limits he's quick (these are all posted on his own web site) to provide a full-scale shot. The one panoramic shot he provides soling a hard route is hanging from the finishing jug of Maximum Ghetto, where the same angle from any other move on the climb would be far more impressive. Yet Samet dare not delve, instead citing that Reardon is "in his element" soloing a 5.9 handcrack multiple times for photos.
He does use John Bachar to support his case that Reardon is legit. Yet the best Bachar can attest is to Reardon being “a strong little mutherf*cker” because he “nearly sent” a V8 in a day. However, this brings up more controversy because—at least I would think—not sending a V8 in a day might create more doubt, as this is nowhere near a world standard.
But Samet's largest gaff, unless it's done on purpose (highly unlikely given the subtlety this action would require) is to validate Reardon's soloing with an anecdote from a guy who found trinkets left for him on Dark Star in the Sierra. In this segment, the authenticator of all things rad concerning Mr. Reardon claims that he heard him up making coffee at 3:30 or so en route to a solo of 5 routes on Temple Crag. Yet he claims that Reardon left him a note on the summit of Dark Star saying, "waited for you guys up here". No mention at all is made to the fact that it might seem strange to wait for a party to climb 30 pitches that most likely isn't even awake yet. Not to mention he's got another 60 or so pitches--and some long descents--to solo himself that day. Yet when this "witness" states something like "I'm certain anything he says is true(sic)," Samet treats the statement as though God has spoken. It's so bizarre it's almost incomprehensible.
Since this is just some of what I found in about an hour of skimming over a couple of beers, my question is why would anyone every read this magazine, unless it was as some kind of joke?
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2005 - 02:42pm PT
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426-
It's in an essay by Peter Croft entitled "Comic Book Flight Manual." It's published in the Yosemite book by Alex Huber and may have been published somewhere else.
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426
Sport climber
Another slopey nightmare, GA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 02:45pm PT
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thanks.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 16, 2005 - 09:42pm PT
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Blow me down--Turbo Flange on the 3rd? That's about the most insecure climb I've ever done, and about the most unlikely free solo I can imagine. That's one I'd just about have to see to believe--but I wouldn't be able to watch. Gives me the willies just to think about MR soloing the thing.
JL
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 16, 2005 - 10:21pm PT
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Thats for sure Largo, but not just Reardon, anybody soloing Turbo Flang would be gripping to watch.
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Agent Kream
climber
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Dec 17, 2005 - 12:24am PT
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If I were not in "Deep Cover" eating doughnuts, I might have something to add to this thread...
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Tan Slacks
Social climber
The back of a Helicopter
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Dec 17, 2005 - 07:16pm PT
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Kream,
Perhaps you could share some of your experiences here on ST. It might add some clarity to an often clouded discussion. If only there was someone who climbed with the aformentioned, and could speak accuratly about his "skills" as a soloist.
As "stainless" mentioned earlier. Bacher's comments in Samet's article are vague at best, and besides.. Is not Bacher on our subjects payroll?
Is there a duty to the climbing community?
What if "deep throat" had never spoken up.
History will judge you Kream.
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Agent Kream
climber
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Dec 17, 2005 - 08:30pm PT
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Dear Tan Slacks,
do you mind me calling you Dear???
Well on the Michael reardon issue. I can in fact add to it. Today, while climbing with Chosimba and D, we ran into MR and company... Well they were drinking coffee so I offered them some Krispy Kream Doughnuts... They declined... So that is new news concerning MR... Coffee maybe!!! Doughnuts NO!!!...
anything other than that I have no idea...
Agent Kream....over and out! Roger Wilco! Eee Aww Kee!!!
Aka locker
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Dec 17, 2005 - 10:00pm PT
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The Krispy Kreme shoppe on 23rd Street by my house went out of business while I was in Joshua Tree. I walked by the other day, and something didn't seem right. I was like :"Hey! Where'd the Krispy Kreme store go?" I thought I was losing it for a minute, but then I saw a vacant facade, with just the dirt shadow of a Krispy Kreme shaped sign.....Locker - do you think it was all just a front store for Agent Kream, and he's moved the whole op to Cali, so he can keep an eye on Reardon? Maybe ply him with donuts, so he gains weight and can't send? You know, next time he steps onto the wall and can't get his foot off the ground cause he's wearing cement shoes, I mean tummy....
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:03pm PT
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Sounds like MR got a bunch of the most "respected climbers in the UK" panties all bunched up. Nice work MR.
Seriously though, anyone know what he sent over there?
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bones
Trad climber
San Diego
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:29pm PT
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acopausa dot com /image.jsp?image=content/com.acopausa.photos.Photo/64/Pirate1-crop.jpg
MR soloing The Pirate at Suicide.
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immanti
climber
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Oct 27, 2006 - 05:43pm PT
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Yes, Reardon really did solo what he says he soloed. On top of which he is a very cool guy, considerate, smart, sensitive and giving. Reardon's positive and contagious energy has made a difference for many during tough times, mnyself included. The guy is legit.
Yes, that is John Bachar posting as bachar. John would not only never cover for a faker just because he was "in the ads", but he'd never be in the ads in the first place unless he was the real deal. JB sets a high bar.
No, he's not crazy or redlining, Reardon has been known to down-climb when he's recognized unacceptable risk. He has also soloed extensively and he is still around. Doubters need only hang out with him for a while, only fools (and his very few peers) would try to keep up.
No, I don't get why it bothers some that Reardon could prove to be such a superior climber and not fit their idea of a perfect personality. Must you cast doubt on every good thing that doesn't come from you just to make up for your own inadequacies?
Reasonable doubt would require reasonable evidence. Reasonable evidence has been provided and proof is availabe upon request. After that, only "haigh-n and nay-sayn" can inspire those who cast doubt.
Get out there and experience your own unbelievable climb, something so awesome you'll be the one trying to convince others.
In the meantime, I'll let the silence with which the doubters have responded to the challenge posted by John (free shoes for life to anyone who can keep up soloing with MR) speak for them.
Good climbing!
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Oct 27, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
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Don't bite, don't bite, ah f*#k it
He has been caught in a lie twice for sure that I know of
heres one-
Grimer on UKbouldering
his visit, and ticklist was pretty underwhelming. As regards to Neon Dust, he later told me he had only done the boulder problem start then traversed into Valkyrie. I explained to him that ND, E6 7a, was the route, but hey ho.
freesoloist.com "Hardest Single Pitch Onsight Solo #2: "Neon Dust" (E6 7a) - Froggatt, Eng"
Means this statement of yours "Yes, Reardon really did solo what he says he soloed." IS FALSE
(if your a dude that second sentence is pretty gay to, fyi)
Your Acopa address means you, like Bachar have a financial stake
the other lie-
He claims he never told anyone he was a lawyer and people in LA know he used to go around introducing himself as one. A month ago I heard a guy say "He's not a lawyer? He told me he was one."
It's not like I'm up in that scene or even know the guy, thats just what I've picked apart from afar.
and Still nobody of any credability has ever seen him solo anything hard.
edit- oh but he was seen yelling take all over the Vampire while wiring it and cleaning holds.
also about what he did climb over there. He toroped the crap out of a 12A and then soloed the 2nd asscent. the 3rd ascent was done onsite, yawn.
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pyro
Social climber
I'm not telling,
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Oct 27, 2006 - 10:04pm PT
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I watched him seen the video and yes i still consider him one of the Stoney n'lonely bouldering because he needs something to do kinda guy!
great job. M.R. Say Hi to Ry for me!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Oct 28, 2006 - 12:17am PT
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Reardon is Real...
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immanti
climber
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Oct 28, 2006 - 12:29am PT
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"don't bite, don't bite"... that's exactly what I was thinking before posting on this subject, since Michael's climbing stands on its own merits. To me this is like arguing with someone who doesn't believe the earth is really round. You show them a picture of it from space and they say "But have YOU seen it?" Its a bit pointless, but here.
"he later told me he had only done the boulder problem start..."
Your evidence to prove he didn't do something is what you claim HE said to you (probably downplaying what he did)? Pretty sad.
"I explained to him that ND, E6 7a..."
Wow. Pretty arrogant. I wonder if you even climb at his level.
"It's not like I'm up in that scene or even know the guy, thats just what I've picked apart from afar."
Oh, sorry, I thought you knew what you were talking about there for a second, but I guess its all hearsay and supposition.
"if your a dude that second sentence is pretty gay to, fyi"
I am a "dude", and I'm confident enough in my heterosexuality not to have a problem recongizing sensitivity in any person, male or female. I'm also secure enough in it not to have a problem with other people's choices. If words or concepts like that irritate or threaten you, mybe you are not so secure in your own sexual orientation (sure sounds that way). But that's for you to figure out and for me not to care about.
"Your Acopa address means you, like Bachar have a financial stake"
Yes, John and I are part of Acopa. Now, THINK about it: Do you know how many 5.13 climbers are out there begging to be sponsored? What possible good would MR be to any company if he was just talk? Don't you think anyone would check it out before doing such a thing? We did, Bachar has climbed with him. We know him. That's why we know, and you don't.
You're welcome to find out for yourself and beyond any doubt. The offer is still out there, all you have to do is follow (so you can see what he does next!). You sound like a macho man, should be a walk in the park for you.
As I said, go do your own bad solos out there, then see if you even care whether someone else believes what you say or not.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 28, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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Mtwoodsonguide,
That guy misunderstood Reardon. He said he was a warrior not a lawyer. Sounds the kinda the same bit two totally different meanings.
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Oct 28, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
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Hmm, all we hear from the Acopa crowd is some BS challenge to go follow the guy...as if my lame climbing abilities have anything to do with exaggeration or fabrication on the part of Mr. Reardon. And, on a similar note Bachar's $10k challenge back in the day was BS as well...yeah let's go follow someone on their home circuit that they have totally wired and know all the trick beta for.
Nobody doubts that the kid solos and solos at a high level. But many doubts exist as the the veracity of some of Mr. Reardon's claims. All the posturing by Acopa, Inc about "you can't follow him, so shut up" are diversionary at best. NO, I CANNOT FOLLOW THE KID, and WTF does that have to do with the price of tea in China?
Now that that's out of the way, lets get down to brass tacks.
Straight from Niall's mouth that Mr. Reardon told him (Niall, aka "Grimer") he did the start and traversed into Valkyrie yet claims to have done Neon Dust. Hard to spin that one, yet you try anyway. The start is not the route anymore than me soloing Astroman to the top of the enduro pitch and rapping would entitle me to claim to have "soloed Astroman".
Now, as to the lawyer bit, I have no idea whether he claimed to have passed the bar or have actually practised, but I do know that he claims to have a JD from Pepperdine in press releases. Is having a JD the same as being a lawyer? Not really, but it's almost splitting hairs. Yet it does lead us down the road of exaggeration or fabrication that seems to raise the doubts surrounding Mr. Reardon.
I'd be plenty impressed with the kid without the exaggerations, but with the swirl of doubt surrounding his claims I'm at the "who cares, just another blowhard wanker" stage.
Keep spinning though, maybe you'll get dizzy afterwhile.
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