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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 11:48am PT
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wstmrclmr -- I believe that's true of 5.9 also.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Jul 25, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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5.10d:
Chinese Handcuffs
Gram Traverse
Table of Contents
5.11a:
Do or Fly (easy start from the left, the direct start is .11c)
Black Angel
Handbook
Orange Plasma
Question: Is Orange Plasma (.11a) harder than Old Folks Boogie (.10d)or even Comfortably Numb (.10c)? They're all on E. Cottage Dome . . .
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
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Agree Frumy
Reeotch. Interesting choices. As I believe protection and era play an important role in ratings. Comparing Orange Plasma to Old Folks Boogie may be a good choice as most people feel Old Folks is harder due to less protection then Orange Plasma which is sport bolted underlining different mental aspects which come to bare on ratings.
Older 10'ds like Piece of Grass, a classic (I think) if rarely done face climb in the style from the masters, Accamazzo, Graham and Sorenson which, to me oppitimizes the face climbs of that rating in TM from the 70's.
Table of Contents is interesting because the first pitch was done at 10b in '79 by Dingle and Lesse as a one pitch climb and to my mind is much harder (because of less protection) then the second and third pitch 10d addition put up by Clevenger and Fiddler in '81 and is a suprisingly well protected offering from two climbers with bold reputations. Which leads me to my favorite 11. in TM which is on the same face, Cross Reference which throws my theories of time and place out the window. A very bold climb put up in '86 by Alan Nelson and Vaino Kodas.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Jul 25, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
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So hard to decide. I haven't done some of the classics like SOL, or Death Crack.
But of the ones I've done:
Single Pitch: Blues Riff
Handbook is a close second for me. There was a bunch of bat sh#t in the crack when I did it, but that was the only downside.
Multi-pitch: By Hook or by Crook has at least 2 classic 5.11 pitches, plus some 5.10. A nice testpiece!
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TeleRoss
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 26, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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By Hook or By Crook...uber classic! One of the best 11s in Tuolumne for sure. Would also highly recommend Sorcerer's Apprentice
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KitKat
Trad climber
Strawberry
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Jul 26, 2013 - 03:30am PT
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+ 10^6 on Clint's list
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 26, 2013 - 03:31am PT
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Horseshoes and Hand Grenades, before it got properly upgraded
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Handbook is gonna get a little bit better when somebody moves that anchor to the top of the corner.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:14am PT
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Blues Riff gets my vote. An all-world pitch.
Memory might be wavering, because it has been, oh, about 20 years, but I remember the crux pitches on By Hook or By Crook as being fairly short. Gotta have long pitches for full value, IMHFO. Never tried the BY, which I regret.
One not so well known route that I really enjoyed was Arch Rival, which I only see mentioned one other place in the thread. But that might have had something to do with the girl I did it with... those were good times.
Now I'm psyched when I on-sight 5.7
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