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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jul 15, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
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.....wish I were heading to the Dolomites, enjoy your trip boys. We expect lots of photos!!!
BERG HEIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Charlie D.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 15, 2014 - 09:40pm PT
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Broke, our paths might have crossed had I been able to find a flight I could
use my bloomin' miles for. Alas, we're not going until October. Yeah, I
know, a trifle late but it could be an Indian summer.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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This continues to be a very cool and informative thread. Can't wait to get back over there.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jul 16, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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Reilly-
Last year it really dumped a lot of snow on 16 September evening, enough to make Torre Quarta Bassa, via Normale that morning my last climb of the trip...with 6 days left. The cold was really penetrating my injured knee, so we cancelled the afternoon plans that day. Yeah, yeah...I'm an old wimp.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jul 20, 2014 - 09:25am PT
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My countdown has begun! I depart for Munich in 4 weeks (18 August) and arrive early afternoon the next day. After spending several days being a tourist, I arrive in Cortina the following Saturday afternoon (23 August). First day of climbing will be at the Cinque Torri.
My plan involves a full day on easier climbs in order to get the kinks from travel all worked out.
Time permitting and in view of the area's popularity, we may get a 3rd route worked in.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 20, 2014 - 10:00am PT
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Yeah, I'm not really harboring any unrealistic hopes other than enjoying the scenery and
northern Italian/Tyrolian efficiency and sausages. I hope your knee allows you to have a
greāt time!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 10, 2014 - 01:05am PT
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going to be making this a priority in 2015.
more tips for getting around and easy access climbs, much appreciated.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 10, 2014 - 07:55am PT
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Munge,
I climbed in the Dolomites for a week and a half in 2012. I rented a car at the Venice airport and drove around. Having a car is the way to go. There is a fairly good bus system, but having a car will give you much more flexibility. When I climbed at the Cinque Torri area, I stayed at the fantastic Cinque Torri Refugio which is only a nice 10-15 minute hike from the Refugio to the climbing area. The Cinque Torri Refugio is a private hut, but it is slightly nicer than the CAI (Italian Alpine Club) huts that I stayed at in other parts of the Dolomites. The Cinque Torri Refugio hut fills up fast, so make sure you get your reservations in early. I faxed in my request for a reservation to the Cinque Torri hut. There is also a nice CAI hut that is also very close to the Cinque Torri climbing area. You can drive right up to the Cinque Torri hut, but not the CAI hut, although you can take a chairlift with your gear to the Cinque Torri hut. The food at the huts, private and CAI, is fantastic. I got the half pension plan, which means that my breakfast and dinner were included along with the room. If you were to pay for the breakfast and dinner separately from the room, you would pay a lot more money.
July and August are the peak times when the huts and crags can be crowded. Because of this, I went climbing in early September. Note that many huts close by the third week in September. The weather is a bit cooler in September, but the lack of crowds makes up for this. There were still many climbers in September when I was there, but never so many that I had to wait for a climb at the Cinque Torri climbing area.
There are also pure sport climbing areas within this region. For information on the sport climbing areas, you need to get a book in German, English, and Italian that is sold in the bookstore in the old Cortina square. The book is out of print, but is still widely sold. The K2 mountaineering shop in Cortina does not sell this book since it is out of print, but they can direct you to the bookstore, which is near by.
For lunches, I bought some bread, cheese, meats, and fruits at the supermarket in Cortina. This store closes in the afternoon, so make sure you time your arrival (I got there just before it closed). The huts also will sell snacks. There is something really nice about the obligatory beer or wine at the hut after climbing for the day.
Unless you do some of the more "unprotected" climbs, you will do not need a big rack. By "unprotected" I mean the climbs that do not have fixed protection already installed. Most of the "protected" climbs really do not need anything more than quick draws, free slings and niners (for the natural threads), and a few cams and nuts.
I also stayed at some other huts where I had to hike into the huts. I stayed at the Refugio Filla Fonda Savio, which was quite a hike in terms of elevation gain from where I had to leave the car to the hut. There is some nice climbing and a via ferrata in that area, but the approach to the hut is tough (I was traveling solo for solo rope climbing, so was taking much more weight than others may take).
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 10, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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brokedown, while yr in selva, stop by pizza stadion and have a pizza speck and a schluezer for me.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 10, 2014 - 10:03am PT
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klk-
Will do! I'm staying at Albergo Silvana, where they have Forst Lager on tap! It's really a good beer in comparison to may other "Italian beers." Brewed in Bozen (Bolzano) and is very Austro-Germanic in character.
Now entering the final countdown of only a week until I depart!!! Leaving DIA on a non-stop Lufthansa flight to Frankfurt, change planes and arrive Munich on Tuesday 19 August. Pick up my new car at BMW Welt at 4:10 later that afternoon, and will be doing some sightseeing (i.e. beer drinking) in Munich for a couple days before driving to Cortina on Saturday the 23rd.
P.S. Off to the Health Club now, for a heavy workout on the lat pull and low pulley row machines! I've been working out 3 days a week getting ready for this trip.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 10, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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Stoke is high!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 10, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
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Broke, Berg Heil!
Whaddya getting, an M5 or an M6? ;-)
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 10, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
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Reilly-
The M5 and M6 aren't available for European delivery--just the M1 X-drive version, which is what I've ordered. Glacier Silver with leather interior.
The X-3, X-5, and X-6 are all built in South Carolina.
P.S. I'm drinking beer now to get in shape. I did several sets of crunches on the crunch machine at the health club as well as leg presses, lat pulls, low pulley rowing, leg extensions, and flyes. I deserve some beer at this point!
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Aug 11, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
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munge, now i'll be emailing you about dolomite routes. ;)
hopefully within 2-3 years.
great thread. keep it goin'
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 12, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
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It looks amazing there, don't it split! You get the last email with updated route names?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 25, 2014 - 05:06am PT
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Here's my "first report" from the Dolomites: met last night with drunkfox about climbing on Monday the 25th; bad news is the weather! It has been very cloudy/overcast and drizzling since I arrived. I drove up to Falzarego Pass this morning through clouds, and the temperature is only 43 degrees F, and entirely too chilling when it's misty with a breeze. THIS SUCKS! The Meteo for the next week is more of the same, with occasional breaks. We're gonna' try again Wednesday, weather permitting.
There's even recent snow still remaining on the North slopes of the higher mountains.
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CCT
Trad climber
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Aug 25, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
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I'm heading to the Dolomites in about a week. It's my first trip to the area, and I'm travelling with a non-climbing friend. Anyone got any recommendations for a good Via Ferrata that won't completely terrify my friend, while still providing a good sample of the mountains? WWI artifacts a bonus!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 25, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
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Ahhh...BDC...you're in a bad stretch of weather...no fun!
Head downhill to Landro...
There's a few routes of the moderate variety. Then, you can always...
I surfed the weather in the area. Arco looks wet. Finale looks wet. Trento looks wet. Strangely, what isn't totally wet, is Chiavenna in Sondrio. Plenty of climbing. Great food. Nice hang.
Could always Via Ferrata in the rain. This one's super if you haven't done it: http://www.summitpost.org/ferrata-lipella/157536
Good luck!
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Winter
climber
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Aug 25, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
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This thread has me really excited for a long-awaited trip to the Dolomitis in mid-Sept! Hopefully it'll be dry. Someone post some more photos.
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