Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Here are the same lines, but on René's photo:
(Just my guess on the CCC "trail" - I have not been up to experience this nightmare).
Good luck up there - I wouldn't promise photos until you are safely back at home with camera in hand! :-)
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
Oh ye of little faith.
I promised photos....period. ; ) Nahmeen?
I'm tellin you guys.....recon before you do it. Besides, it's good exercise....not only physically but also an exercise in humility.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
I said this on the other CRS thread, but it's worth a mention here.
The reason we were able to walk in there in good time, all the way up the gulley to a nice bivy on ledges at the base if the Fin, without any glitches was simple. The day before we spent a couple hours at the highest overlook on the road up to Moro Rock with maps, the available route desriptions and binocs, studying the terrain across the canyon.
This "big picture" situational awareness enabled us to know where we were and where we were going all the way in. We had no GPS and the trail was completely unmaintained. Understanding the lay of the land there beats the heck out of starting blind in the bottom of the canyon and fighting your way from one GPS point to the next, not really knowing where you are.
Anyway, good luck to you guys next weekend. Since Dave has the approach wired, it should be cake. Be careful.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Yeah
I was up on Moro Rock once too and looked over there at those fine features.
Then I scoped the approach and Ho man!! looks tough but definitely would be worth it for that awesome place.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Has there been any recent work on marking and/or clearing the trail? It sounds like there is growing interest in the area, and a weekend or two of trail work would be worthwhile. You could even call it an Adopt-a-Crag, and combine it with social stuff.
|
|
Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
Has there been any recent work on marking and/or clearing the trail? It sounds like there is growing interest in the area, and a weekend or two of trail work would be worthwhile. You could even call it an Adopt-a-Crag, and combine it with social stuff.
I would argue that a lot of the beauty and intrigue of the area comes from it's remoteness and difficulty. It's not just a climb, but full on adventure.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Jordan,
> I wonder if the old original scroll could be "restored" by some professional or at least decrypted to figure out what was on it.
David Hickey posted a full transcript of what was in the register as of fall 1991. A handwritten version of that would probably be nicer to find on top than the spreadsheet table? But it could take some work.
Here is David's transcription, which includes a few typos.
Castle Rock Spire register
Placed on the Spire by the 9th ascent parted 6/29/63
1st Ascent Castle Rock Spire April 27, 1950. Will Siri, Phil Bettler, Bill long, and Jim Wilson.
2nd Ascent May 28, 1950. John Salathe, Anton (Ax) Nelson, David Hammack, Manford Sanuelson, Richard Michael, and Charley Carley Cranford. (15 hours)
3rd Ascent June 17-18, 1954. Roy Gorin and Mike Sherrick. (12 hours)
4th Ascent October 1, 1955. Mark Powell and Don Wilson. (5 hour 30 min)
5th Ascent June 10, 1956. Charles Wilts and Jerry Gallwas.
6th Ascent July 22, 1956. Mark Powell and John Ohrenuhall. (7hours 30 min)
7th Ascent June 21, 1959. T. M. Herbert and David Rearich. (7hours 30 min)
8th Ascent July 17, 1961. Charles Pratt and Andy Lichtman all day
9th Ascent June 19, 1963. Steve Roper, Little Joe McHemon and Mark Powell. (6 hours)
10th Ascent July 6, 1964. Chuck Pratt, Mark Powell, and Beverly Powell.
11th Ascent May 19, 1969. 1st Ascent West Face. Galen Rowell and Fred Beckey (2 day)
12th Ascent regular route June 8, 1974. Greg Donaldson, Ian Raistrick, and Walt Vennum. (what happened to Frost an Herberts N. Ridge Ascent)
This register, as it is, was placed Labor Day, 1983. By Jack Huntamer, Giant Forest and Matt Hoggard, Santa Barbara, (Welcome to Castle Rock Spire!)
9/4/83. Matt H. (12th asct?) Hey all you low Budget-low Lifes. On top. Good rout (Regular) Later! Beautiful Day, Splendid Climb J. B. H.
13th ASCT (?) see other Reg. 9/8/83. All FREE 5.10/5.11 Pitch above tunnel 5.10+ Pitch above 5.6 chm 5.11? (A1). Last Pitch 5.9. Rob Raker and Dick Leversee.
July 6.1984 So Tired. I forgot the date. Came in from Paradise Ridge Down hideous gully, never again! Did reg. route, Bivy on top. Will rap an climb Fin to get out! E. C. Joe, David Hickey and Jim Marchesin.
May 15th 1988-LA-RCS 15th Ascent 8 hours. Miguel Carmona and Alois Smrz. Did “Silver Lining” on the Finn 2 days ago. This ranks among the best weekends ever. Weather suparb. Reading the Fegister-What a company. We must be the first plaine people up here!! Cheers
July 1. 1989. 15 hours from Buckeye to the top of Spire. Staying the night on top. Great Weather. Art de Goede and David Hickey. Splended night.
May 6. 1990. Kris Solem and Guy Keesee. This is fobulous-WOW!
5/6/1990. 2nd party for the day Meggo Kicks. Did Reg Route All Free 5.11c no falls. Did “Silber Lining” yesorday, very good. Like Faervew Dome in Tuolome. Bill Leventhal and Raehal Weil. Time for libation! “How can the wind with its arms all around me. I feel lost in the city.” Yes hart of summer
Stu Polack, and Tom Hunt 22nd Ascent? Reg Route Free 10/13/90. Part of an elite few it seems. In from Buckeye last night, up Reg Route, hopefully down and out tonight. Great Weater! (Modesto)
---
|
|
Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
|
|
Bill, Jordan, If you guys are still interested in making a donation to Seki SAR, here's a contact number..Susan Mills....559-565-3111...Tell her it is for the Seki SAR account. Since the park doesn't charge for rescues and budget cuts have taken there toll here too, any donation will be much appreciated!!
|
|
Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 12:10am PT
|
Radish,
That's exactly the info I was asking for at the end of my report. I want to give back to those guys after all the hard work they put into getting me out of there. Despite being a "straightforward short haul", being part of a couple of SAR groups in the past, I understand how dangerous any mission can be and how thin budgets can be.
Bill
|
|
D H
Trad climber
Exeter CA.
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 10:18am PT
|
Bill,
Terrible sight for a sober man, here’s to a fast recovery.
A few thoughts on the approach from Buckeye Flat Campground: the first time I climbed the Fin, we hiked up the main gully that goes up between the Fin and Spire, then on the way back, we used the ridge to the right of the gully—this seemed easier. On subsequent trips to Castle Rocks I always used the ridge approach. When I wrote the Castle Rock section for the SEKI guide, this was the approach described.
Clint: For the Spire register—Mike Daly and Art DeGoede climbed the Spire I believe sometime in the summer of 1990 but not sure on the exact date.
Dave: Enough talk--take care and go climb the dam thing! Good Luck!
DH
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
|
Dave-
Dam straight! Other than Jim and Brutus, I could never get a committed partner to do it throughout those years. Too much whining about the approach. Munge hates the PO and gets it badly. But he's all over this adventure regardless. Now that's a mad man with a passion for suffering. My kind of partner!
Driving to the park now. And, yes, the talk is over.
DOIN' IT!
|
|
Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
|
...donation to Seki SAR, here's a contact number..Susan Mills....559-565-3111...Tell her it is for the Seki SAR account.
I emailed about that last night actually. I just gave Susan a call and left a message. Man, that helicopter saved us from a GNARLY walk-out and we're very appreciative!
|
|
Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
|
Good Luck to you both!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
|
This should be the time to end the drought and get on top of the Spire - good luck!
And I hope Bill heals up nicely and summits with Jordan next try. Hopefully the approach goes easier the second time, and better luck avoiding the poison oak, too.
|
|
Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
|
Thanks DH and Clint. The PO is in full force today. I got it bad. Ivy Block and Technu didn't provide much protection although my face did escape. My fingers are so swollen right now I can't get my ring on my finger!
Jordan, let me know what you get back from the emails or I'll call Susan today.
Without that helicopter, we'd still be hauling my a$$ out of there right now!
Given our experiences now with the approach and the better knowledge of the approach to the actual spire, courtesy of the great group on here, the next attempt should be much better.
I'm thinking the fall (maybe September) now but I'm a little concerned about water. Is there still sufficient water sources after the snow has melted?
Bill
|
|
Nate D
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
|
Best of luck to the mooch and munge show!
|
|
Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
|
del cross, you beat me to it. The helicopter ride definitely avoided it.
On the way in we wore "bunny suits" from the OR that I picked up on my way out of town. We also used Ivy Block on our hands, faces, ankles, wrists. We wore long-sleeve shirts and long pants.
Here's where I screwed up: after the first ridge I figured I was out of most of it so we cached our PO gear near the first cairns under some rocks. I don't handle heat very well and it was in the 90's going in. Even in the shade I was beginning to feel some heat exhaustion coming on (it's happened to me about a half dozen times so I'm hyper-aware of it now). So what I did was change into my shorts and t-shirt. I reapplied Ivy Block and some sunscreen then started hiking again. I quickly realized I was bush-whacking in PO again and pretty much knew I was screwed. We got to a spring and washed up some, used Technu wash, then reapplied Ivy Block.
As has been mentioned, there is PO all the way up to the spire until you are above treeline. Jordan continued to wear long pants which I believe protected him much better.
The places where I got PO were all uncovered. My hands, forearms, knees. I specifically bought clothes from Goodwill before leaving so I could throw them away when I got back to the car. I should have kept wearing them until we were ready to climb. The one other item I was trying to remember to get while we were at Wal-Mart on the way out of town were some cotton gardening gloves to wear. They may or may not have helped.
|
|
Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
|
obviously a helicopter would be a way to avoid it(the PO).
HA!!! That was my exact thought too ;)
I really only got the PO on my arms and back of the neck a bit. I decided on the way down the last ridge that I was already covered in it and just wore my short sleeved shirt, thinking I'd use the tecnu when I got down. Unfortunately I forgot all about it while getting the rescue underway. The PO is only located in a t-shirt pattern so the long pants must have done the trick.
The beauty of PO is that it's a hapten and the response (rash) is immune mediated, therefore it gets worse and comes on faster with each exposure because you're essentially increasing your immunological memory to it. Awesome, right?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!