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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 18, 2005 - 01:25pm PT
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Al,
Do you know who did the bolt ladder up and right of the last 2/3rds of Machete Direct? It's not in the guidebook. It starts up high. You can reach it by by climbing what is called the "Upper Bandits Bench" route and traversing left on 5th class terrain?
I can probably send you a pic with the position of it pointed out.
Also, there was allegedly a Colliver route off right from Machete Direct, but left of Bandits Bench area. Remember anything about that?
Clint, help me out on this if I'm not describing the locations properly.
Thx much!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 18, 2005 - 03:59pm PT
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Al !!
Heck yeah I remember Too Close, I wonder how that thing would feel now? Ahh, yes. Funny, I remember a couple of other things as well, hum, yeah. Something about Keroke...
Still playin' those keys? I picked up bass recently and have been trying to hold down the bottom end with some good friends. Where are you hangin' these days??
:- k
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scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
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Nov 18, 2005 - 04:15pm PT
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Hardman Knott, you rock! Thanks for the "cleanup" and all
the links you introduce.
sm
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Nov 18, 2005 - 04:38pm PT
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Munge - Now we really are entering obscur - o - land.Yes send me a photo I think I remember that route - I wanna say those Citadel guys but those were quarter inchers weren't they? Don't remember ground level Colliver route but I'm going into full research mode now - out comes the Richards book.
Clint - Eyeballin those topos and the Gagner book it seems that SODW starts near the West Face and traverses almost straight right (5.4 in your topo ) to join start of second pitch. Also Gagner shows unidentified "aid route" above 5.4 traverse and your topo confirms that with a line of bolts heading towards SODW,end of third pitch. What's that? So it seems as though the 18 bolt ladder was added post 1982 and not really part of SODW merely a direct start. I do remember slings on some of the bolts - lower outs? MUST SEE RUBINE BOOK, then I'll be up to speed
Late, Al
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Nov 18, 2005 - 04:51pm PT
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K-Man, Do you mean "Karaoke"? Refresh my memory. Still playin - I'm in a band called " Naughty Boy " w/Paul Borne . Livin in Josh and guiding. email me!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 18, 2005 - 10:14pm PT
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will do Al. The bolt ladder has some old white tat sling that looks like it's been there forever. The bolts on that line are actually star dryvs, the ones I could see anyways.
the colliver route, or at least the mystery pitch that I'm thinking may be part of an old colliver route, is at mid-height, though originally it could have gone from the ground, there is an old 1/4" near a tree that touches the wall up and right on the hill from the bouldering arch/big roof, and left of Alias Bandit Bench.
In any event there are now a couple additional nice lines up there besides the ones we are talking about. If you are ever up that way and want a tour of the newer stuff, we're at your disposal.
Sounds like it's time for a pinnacles reunion complete with live band.
Anyone think Jack Holmgren will show? Man that guy can drill.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 19, 2005 - 12:46am PT
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Greg,
Talked with Tom Davis. He sez it's a 5-piece if it's gotta hex head. He also offered me the use of his special tool that he uses to remove the sleeve of the bolt. Sez it works fine with a little care. He'd be psyched to have glue-in's on both the third and fourth bolts.
What's the chances of getting a little ASCA help on this one? I must admit, I've never placed a glue in before. Probably drilled about twenty or thirty holes total.
thanks for all your advice.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Nov 19, 2005 - 02:59am PT
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Munge, PARTY - now that's something I know how to do. Looked at Rubine guide - Bandits in Bondage? McConahie brothers?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Sonora, California
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Nov 19, 2005 - 11:08am PT
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Greg, maybe it is time for some more ASCA work at Pinns? I'd make a large or very large donation. Anyone else in for some dough? If you go for it, maybe you could drag along some of the climbers who'd like to learn about rebolting sport routes there and start spreading the knowledge.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 19, 2005 - 01:53pm PT
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Look out Billygoat when TD says he has a special tool for ya!
Protection takes on a new meaning...
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 19, 2005 - 07:53pm PT
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Just as a clarification, the ASCA has been sponsoring rebolting activities at the Pinnacles National Monument for some time now. They have provided hangers and bolts to the Friends of Pinnacles(www.pinnacles.org) for the past four years. The majority of this hardware has been used in the High Peaks and the West Side, replacing 1/4" and other suspect anchor and protection bolts, though we have responded when individual cases were brought to our attention.
As of December 2004, the Friends of Pinnacles had replaced the anchors and installed chains or links for rappel on every Pinnacle in the High Peaks that we knew of (and some that we found out about during our efforts).
OK. So we didn't do Lower Teapot Dome but, it is protected by poison oak and I break out just looking at PO.
Bruce
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Apr 25, 2007 - 02:15am PT
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Al,
whoa, just reran across this post. Do you still need a pic of the wall? I understand some headway has been made on identifying Glenn Deny routes. I'm assuming you are talking to Clint now about it.
lemme know
M
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Apr 27, 2007 - 02:18pm PT
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Speaking of bolts, how are the old ones I put in on Shake and Bake many years back? Holding up? Replaced?
For lovers of Pinns and history, there are some pics (one pretty good one on Shake and Bake)and tales of climbs from various publications (Ascent, AAC Journal) at www.tomhiggins.net.
Good climbing!
Long Ago
Tom Higgins
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Apr 27, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Just noticed this revived thread. Yes Munge , send me the pic! Love that Jody pic.... nothin like crud-n-mud !!!
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Apr 27, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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Extreme choss climbing!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Apr 27, 2007 - 04:55pm PT
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That's Mono, that's not choss.
This is choss...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Apr 27, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
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Feral choss...
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Apr 27, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
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Anyone that calls Pinns choss climbing should be banned from climbing there. And have their head examined. The rock is fabulous. I have a few of my favorite Pinnacles hand and footholds sitting at home on a shelf with my guidebooks.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 27, 2007 - 05:46pm PT
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Tom,
> Speaking of bolts, how are the old ones I put in on Shake and Bake many years back? Holding up? Replaced?
I believe Jim McConachie has a 1/2" drill bit for replacing them (by enlarging the original holes), but I don't think it has been done yet. I think the 3/8" bolts are holding up pretty well, but they are a bit discolored, so worthy of replacement at some point. Fantastic route, by the way - a full-value Pinnacles testpiece! David Rubine wrote in the history section of his guidebook:
"Shake and Bake was the first - and still one of the most impressive - of the modern free routes. In a stroke of true vision, Tom Higgins and Chris Vandiver launched themselves up the sheer wall of The Balconies with the intent of creating the first free climb on the wall. As if this wasn't enough, their goal was to place all the bolts without resorting to aid of any sort. After three days of strained and nerve-wracking effort, the pair gained the safety of the ledge at the top of the wall. Their audacity, combined with their use of 3/8" bolts, set a superlative example. Be forewarned: Until you are ready to handle 30-foot runouts on sustained 5.9 climbing, steer clear of this one. But when you are ready, you will experience one of the true gems to be found at Pinnacles".
The bolts you placed on the start of Lava Falls have been replaced. Also, Bruce Hildenbrand and I finished replacing the bolts on the Balconies Regular Route last December, where you did the FFA. Several (but not all) of the bolts on Rupert Kammerlander's Resurrection Wall have been replaced.
[OK, Brad, now back to the FA list!!]
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Apr 27, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
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I remember belaying Eric Topel (rip) on the 2nd pitch of
the Balconies Regular. About half way up while I was seconding I
noticed that one of his pieces had gotten loose and had come out;
it was hanging on the rope above.
When I got up to where the piece was hanging on the rope, I noticed
something odd about it. It wasn't a dislodged stopper--it was a
dislodged BOLT! There on the rope hung the bolt, hanger, and draw.
Magnificent.
Long live the Pinns!
PS. Wondrous route Mr. Higgins!
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