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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Nov 23, 2005 - 10:28pm PT
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People are starving, getting mangled, dying of AIDS, all over the world...and you get worked into a lather over THIS?
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Nov 23, 2005 - 10:40pm PT
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maybe they wanted to add fluoride to the water in his town....
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Nov 23, 2005 - 10:52pm PT
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Rhodo, you really wanna see lather worked up, head over to all those insane LEB threads hehe. I've read them several times and still have no clue what they're all agog about.
It's attitudes like CK's that over the years have caused a lot of the overbolting at belays on the Captain. Cause hey, there's not enough bolts for MY needs, so I'll just add some at this belay to make it better for ME. That's just a selfish attitude that's not very ethical and has turned El Cap into a scrapyard of overbolted belays over the years.
Not to mention CK had a friend upthread who when we initially brought up the bolting on PSD, he went off on us about how Kalous is the "most ethical" climber he knows, how he'd NEVER do somthing like that. And then not only does the guy come on and admit they bolted on the second ascent, but the reason he gave was stunningly retarded. If it was something like the only available places for pro at the belay fell off the rock, that'd be one thing. But "oh, I don't think there's enough bolts for me and my partner to manage all of our crap comfortably so let me slam an extra bolt in" - on a f*#king second ascent notheless!! - is just lame.
Now I have to get back to work curing AIDS and feeding starving children.
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mike hartley
climber
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Nov 23, 2005 - 10:53pm PT
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As to the post my Mr. Kalous, I had a different take. Ya gotta love a man who’s honest with nothing to hide and nothing to prove… and (especially when it comes to belays) willing to think for himself and not worry about the yapping dogs down in the meadow.
Pretty impressive list of seconds to boot.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 23, 2005 - 11:36pm PT
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How many of you are willin to belay off a single bolt... with 2 people, 2 full haulbags, and a bunch of air benethe you? I'm guessin not too many. I think the 2nd added to, you;d need to climb a move or 2 to get a bomber piece. I think the belay is at a stance and above it is like a beak to a good cam.
Klaus... who is it that drilled the bathooks???
Who is Floruide??? What has he done... any hard routes? Just curious...
Chris is pretty stand up about it! Says they did it... seems like most would deny and blame someone else.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Nov 23, 2005 - 11:49pm PT
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Jake, after watching Brent slam you upthread about "what have YOU done" and watch him hammer you for wearing tennies up a Grade VII route when you seconded what was done to PSD, it's not worth going over climbing resumes online.
I'm before your time, but I've heard about your accomplishments over the past year. Mighty impressive and in good style.
I'll let Klaus speak for himself on the rest of this topic. But I'm pretty sure I know how it'll go.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 23, 2005 - 11:59pm PT
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ah... if you have spent much time... you will probably beat me with that. I was just curious on who ya are, didn't mean to offend or anything. Read enough of your posts that a name is always cool.
Sucidal Failure
Trust Your Mechanic, this is a good Screamer ad!!! HAHAHA
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Nov 24, 2005 - 12:07am PT
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Jake, no matter what Brent said upthread I personally think anyone who does a Grade VII in tennis shoes is a definite somebody, if anything I think that makes it even prouder. I have nothing but respect for what you've accomplished so far.
Nice pics!!
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 24, 2005 - 12:15am PT
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It is grade VI by the way, don't want to confuse our route with really crazy shit! My partner brought more of tennis shoes than I did, but he always belayed in the ledge, I would just hang in my harness. I had some really light high top boots with yosemite summer style socks. Rookie mistake and cheapness.
Oh about brent was more pokin fun about the boots. Ask him about his frostbite...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 24, 2005 - 12:39am PT
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"Who is Floruide??? What has he done"
(S)he for the first question.
And I'll guess Klaus for the second. But it's only a guess.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Nov 24, 2005 - 12:47am PT
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yep, doing an alpine wall in tennis shoes does probably indicate you are somebody...
so fluoride aint in the water, k is in fluoride? I bet the anti-fluoridation folks wont have too much to say about that. sounds like its all good!
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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Nov 24, 2005 - 12:59am PT
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Fluoride... I have only this to say...
Jake had the sack to email me directly. I wrote him back, haven't heard back from him, I'm assuming were all good?
I don't feel any need to tell you anything about anything I've ever done with myself, climbing or otherwise.
Glad Jake made note of the Grade VI thing, big diff between that and Grade VII, imho.
Hope the skies are blue Chris, and nada viento...take it down amigo. Have a pisco for me, the calafate (sp?) hasn't brought me back yet.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Nov 24, 2005 - 01:03am PT
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Yes Gols, all is good.
My bad on the Grade VII mate. Still, Grade VI in tennies is still sick. Something tells me Jake will probably end up topping that one sometime in the near future....flip flops??
And did Melissa just call me gay? Sh#t, the wife's gonna be pissed.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2005 - 06:38pm PT
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WORD!!
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enci
climber
Hungary
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Feb 23, 2006 - 03:31am PT
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Yes, we really did High Plains Dripper in '97 and Pressure Cooker in '98.
Holly wrote: "The "guys from Philli" were actually two Hungarians living in Philli at the time of the climbs, back in Hungary now. Oscar and his girlfriend whose name I can't spell, but she only follows so I believe they did some of those walls as three with another Hungarian partner."
No, there was no third partner, Oszkar led all pitches on both routes.
Cheers,
Oszkar Nadasdi&Eniko Szentirmai from Hungary
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enci
climber
Hungary
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Feb 23, 2006 - 03:50am PT
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Just one more thing: we did not find any of the belays "unsafe". Maybe I'm wrong, Klaus may want to correct me, but as I remember - though it was a long time ago - the onebolt-belay could've been reinforced with a nut, so on the belays we'd never felt "unsafe".
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binky
Big Wall climber
boulder
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Feb 23, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
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Zenyatta Mondatta -2cd ascent I think was Todd Bibler and partner. He told me once he came to valley, asked for the hardest thing around and sent it! Then off to alaska to climb 1st full ascent of Moonflower buttress. Sick old man!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 23, 2006 - 09:45pm PT
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"Bermuda Dunes w/ Rebecca Rusch(I lead most pitches. Incidentally, I added a f*#ked up 1/4 bolt to one of the two OW pitch belays which I believe have become the standard free version of Freerider and the Salathe. I hope someone has had the sense to replace it since."
{smile}
Consider it done. Tom and I made the fourth[?] ascent of Bermuda Dunes a couple years ago, and replaced I believe 23 old rusty 1/4" bolts with new 3/8-inchers. I had thought that removing old bolts with "tuning forks" then drilling out the holes and installing new bolts would be difficult, but it's not really, at least once you get the hang of it. We drilled no new holes.
Above is the view looking up the crack.
Here's a closer look at the bolts. The original is on the right, and the one we first replaced is on the left. Both were replaced. Those are Tom's nine-inch Valley Giant cams. Superb craftsmanship, and highly recommended by Dr. Piton.
Tom made up these belts of bolts and bits out of duct tape. I felt like Machine Gun Kelly, a 20's gangster who ended up in Alcatraz. Note that I said "gangster" and not "gangsta" - there is nothing "gangsta" about me, and there never will be.
Bermuda Dunes is a brilliant route, and probably my second-favourite on El Cap after Jolly Roger.
Cheers,
Pete
[edited to fix busted photo links - duh]
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Feb 23, 2006 - 10:14pm PT
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so pete, im looking at your pic and now im thinking of the other thead where were talking about Sutton. Burton, and the Hatten, at some point i think all yo canucks all think alike. remember im married to one. PS does any one know what happen to the Hattini?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 23, 2006 - 10:21pm PT
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"at some point i think all yo canucks all think alike..."
Beer, sex, crabs, and climbing. What else is there? [And pul-LEE-yuz don't say "hockey"! Sheesh.]
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