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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jul 20, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jul 20, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
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A renewed focus on clean climbing and having more routes listed to spread people out. If the route goes clean, then go with that rating only. Suggest people carry a couple of pins, heads, etc in the haul bag for situations when fixed clean gear is missing.
People keep treating walls like a renewable resource which they aren't! More focus on responsible wall stewardship. I'm not convinced that you should carry urine to the top of the wall, but it needs to be disposed of carefully and not on the route or down cracks, ledges, etc.
More detailed East Ledges decent info, since there seems to be a fair bit of confusion about this. Maybe photos of the route and raps points, etc.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 26, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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I was on vacation (at least in the mountains) and missed this the first time. While I like knowing what routes have been done, and use Ed's and Clint's resources for doing this, I don't mind ST's relatively small selection of big routes. The current volume gives me a pretty good idea of what to expect on the routes it lists. The absence of a route's listing there also conveys information, namely that it may be more adventurous (read unfashionable).
Those who are wedded to popular routes -- or want detailed topos -- can stay on the beaten path. I personally like the ability to find solitude still by straying off of it periodically.
I do, however, agree with Mark, Kevin, and others about the change in ethics, particularly on popular routes. If there's a general expectation of what climbers should be doing (e.g., freeing the Stovelegs), knowing it could help to avoid unpleasantness for both slower and faster parties.
I also agree that if a route can be done hammerless, we need to know that pitons, heads and hammer belong at the bottom of the haulbag -- and should be used only if fixed gear gets unfixed. That's simply good stewardship of our limited rock resource.
John
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David Brigham
climber
Scotland, UK
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Feb 12, 2011 - 09:38am PT
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do we have an expected date of release yet?
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Peyton Hassinger
Big Wall climber
Raleigh, NC
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May 17, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Regarding slow parties, I don't think you should have to ask permission to pass someone. If they are moving slow, just do it. Give them a candy bar or something if they look upset.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Can someone point out to me a 5.7 or 5.8 pitch that cannot be aid climbed?
Texas Flake?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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^boom!
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WBraun
climber
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Texas Flake can be aid climbed.
Sling shot with small cord shot over the top and then pull the climbing rope over the top back down and anchor.
Jumar up and you've aided it ......
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