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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 12, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
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Sal, have you tried OOTD yet? I bet you have.
When you're in the area, let me know, maybe I could
show you a couple. Perhaps in exchange for some
Cal Dome experience.
EDIT TO ADD Imagine if Lovers Leap were situated where
Indian Rock is but with its same NW orientation; imagine the view
over Fallen Leaf Lake and Tahoe. That would be unbeatable,
out of this world.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jul 12, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
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Haven't climbed One Of These Days yet, don't know why. My buddy Crawford was telling me recently about some routes he did up there and said it was one of the best .10 cracks in Tahoe.
One of the best .10 cracks in Tahoe is a bold statement. Coming from Crawford puts it in a prestigious class in my book.
Ron: that first clips a doosey, and the second, and the third and...
... then, on the second pitch, it starts to get run out, ha!
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 13, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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Back when Geritol was 2 bits of course.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 14, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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Nice shots. Aloha always looks so
surreal from up above on the West.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 14, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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Hey anyones hear from Mark "Raja" Rogers? I'd like to get in touch.
Looks like a Renaissance in hard climbing is going on, I've been watching the scene out there from afar, all those things we were like "Gill could do" or later "Sharma could" are being done! Prison Hill is seeing love, whooo! We always knew that rock was killer, still curious as to the geology...pockets and all.
http://jessebonin.blogspot.com/
Future Present is visible from the road if it is where I think it is. For that matter, so is the problem on bottom left front page. How many thousands of times did I cruise past those...knowing... "I could grasp the holds, but not the problem."
Crazy 88's
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 14, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
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Ron- I was up Woodfords today. It pains me to say
I could not find your Lost Cabin crag. I found the creek,
tracked up it on the east side to no avail. Whasup,
is it THAT small, 40', kinda like Prison Hill? LOL!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 14, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
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"well the roundish face that faces thi highway is in view of the highway kinda hard to miss!"
And I'm usually good with a map! Ah, I know, I'll post a topo, maybe you could pinpoint it on there for me. Anyways, I found both side roads, south side, traveled both to their ends, no cabins or vestiges of any. The creek might have been rechanneled though- as your map shows it intersects with 88 perpendicular (EDIT: no it doesn't) whereas now it parallels 88 for 100 yards plus or so. Yes, I did have your fine drawing with me, too! LOL!
I won't be so hurried next time.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 14, 2010 - 10:57pm PT
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Okay, roger that. I did travel that "flaccid pecker" road you have drawn on your map (caddycornered to the bridge on the North side) to its end. Thanks, Ron, I'll find it next time. Guess I was too rushed to get back to OOTD Buttress as my turn was coming up. Thanks.
P.S. Didn't see remains of any cabins out there. Must've been exciting to have those BITD.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 17, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
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heres a fresh scan..
first lead of bell bottom blues, 1985.
Steve Schneider and i just scored lowe ball nuts and put them to use on this donner classic..
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 17, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
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chim chim, those knobs are still glued on? crazy.
that was 1986 when i brought a box full of meadows knobs to breckenridge and got the glue on!
...
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 18, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
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Footloose. Where you looking for led zep arete?
If so I can show you the way....missing top 2 or three bolts but it looks like a cool climb.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 18, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
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Ron
I counted 3 bolts from the ground up and was wondering wtf.... Your anchor is still there. Took a picture of it cause it was a "little interesting". If I head there I can replace the bolts....hell Im off tomorrow if you want to?
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 18, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
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No problem Ron we will hook up sometime soon. I will put it on my project list to replace those.... Just realized I have a Burningman Meeting tomorrow anyway.
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 18, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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Ron
If you want the hangers to match I will take you up on that.....
As far as the anchor.....mmmm
Very creative use of chain.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 18, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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I hate the term. Life is short- the "golden age" is the one you're in.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 19, 2010 - 09:04am PT
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I think of Tahoe as going through a 'platinum age' currently, to call some of the incredible stuff going down as gold seems "undervalued".
Mebbe it's a tarnished by blaggo thing, "I got this thing, and it's .------. golden."
I've said the same about the Valley, i.e., "it goes boys"... magic mushroom free? zodiac? mescalito in the works? whodathunk?
The couple times I did Zod, i pondered the "freebility"...someday, I thought...Little did I know it would be within a decade(ish). Now, mescalito? There were sections I just couldn't fathom even for the future....
Still, I hear where you come from...might even dust off teh scanner for "gold".
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 23, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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Dick Richardson on Spacewalk '79ish
Kurt Smith ffa attempt of Wolf crack sans bolts...or belay for that matter...nice hip belay Skippy!
Manic Depression 1985
Steve Schnieder ffa Bell Bottom blues
School Rock overhangs 5.10a
Karls Overhang 1983
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 23, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
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No Ron, your pics kick butt...keep 'em coming
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 30, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
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Whoaaa
Nice ice Ron....Ill need some directions to that!!!
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jul 30, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
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Thanks Ron
Wish I would have known about it when it was 20 below this winter.....couldnt find anyone to do One of these days falls this winter either anyway.
Havnt done the Grover rock yet. Ill keep it on my "wish list"
Did you drop those hangers off at the Rage? Have a little time off this week to maybe replace those....
Shawn
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