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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Mar 27, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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Good route, .12b max. The Belly is the first 5.13 offwidth.
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skywalker
climber
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Mar 27, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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King...good job? If so nice! 12b max??? I don't even know how you get to a letter grade with these. Its 5.stupid hard. Just say Lucille with a smile and everyone in the know gets it.
Just looking at is exhausting...
S...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2013 - 09:56am PT
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Sometimes I get tired just smiling
Maybe I'm old fashioned, but wouldn't you have to do at least one or the other of those routes without pulling on cams, to make that comparison?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jun 28, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
Mar 26, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Good route, .12b max. The Belly is the first 5.13 offwidth.
That's quite the downgrade, Squat is 1/3 the length and comes in at 12b.
Care to elaborate or is this just some more vindictive spray?
Squat 12b!
photo by Bart Paull
Lucille 12b?
Wideboyz called it 13-, whatcha gonna do?
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weezy
climber
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Jun 28, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
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ratings are f*#king stupid.
easy
fun
hard
all the numbers you need right there. the rest is just a dong ruler.
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beefcake of wide
climber
Nederland/GulfBreeze
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Jun 28, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
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No way 12b, I'm so there.
Does it count if my girlfriend belays and leads the first pitch?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 29, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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He told me it was 5.10c goat....
He must be bad ass (berger?)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 29, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
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Weezy has it right.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jun 29, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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Well weezy & Jim they are kind of nice to have around
so we don't end up a black stain on the talus field.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jun 29, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
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From Ed's second post 8 years ago...
http://www.vedauwoo.org/hassler's1.htm
Luebben and Laird are pictured with the climb rating of 12c attached to it--HARDLY a dramatic downgrade by PKings.
Seems in line with the new wave wyde revolution that's been eminating and leaving us with ratings in the .13s and up--either Lucille is solid 5.13; OR the new climbs are artificially higher rated due to the steepness and extreme angle of the cracks.
I'm in training to get the second ascent of a 12b OW put up by Sir Pat in the Bozeman area, looking forward to repeat some of his invert lines around here :-)
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jun 29, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
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Montana ratings are a bit soft.
Maybe if the Montana creepers climbed more they would stalk chicks less.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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C'mon Goat--for real??
You're welcome for having me drag you up that 5.7 crack FA (that you declined to lead). Unbelievable that you would post that shite above...
Answer my question above; without the typical child-wide retoric that prevails here--you are the one stirring up the controversy it seems.
You seemed like a decent guy when you visited out here twice, what happened since then?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Just stirring the pot mojede, it's your buddy that needs to explain himself, but he seems lacking in communication skills unless its harassing girls.
The wide boyz called Lucille 13-, but what what do they know, they never climbed in Montana.
That 5.7 crack (5.6b max),was all yours man, you found it,
I didn't want to steal away any of your glory.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
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2005 was already a bit of time ago...
the thread was started because Lucille was cited by some climber as an important article from back in the day... and I was interested in finding those articles and putting them up on SuperTopoForum for more to read. Many of the journals and anthologies, etc, had gone out of print, great writing is a part of the climbing.... and the importance of passing our history along seemed to out weigh the slight violation of a copyright...
I took down a number of the articles after many complaints from authors (not the authors of the pieces) that I was "stealing bread from their table." With time the articles were found again and posted by others...
...2005 may also have been before I met Jaybro and embarked on the quest of learning how to climb OW with what became known as the the Bay Area Wide Crew (BAWC). I met many characters from these stories, and quite a bit more... WideFetish was inaugurated and the many stories of contemporary hijinks seemed to have sparked the collective imagination of the climbing community. Enough to launch a wave of activity with interest... not that many of the long term participants hadn't been grinding out more test pieces... but that these were topical.
It was really fun to watch it all happen, we went from buying slightly used high top shoes on eBay to having the shoe companies compete with each other to offer their own models...
and then to have Century Crack come alive, and actually make it into a Reel Rock Tour.
Anyway, it seems pretty petty to debate the ratings of climbs, but it is a constant of climber banter...
Jaybro's story Lucille stands as a chronicle of how a vision is morphed through obsession, and with dedication finally becomes something real.
The rating is really beside the point. It was a climb that came to us from the future... few climbs are like that, and fewer climbers are blessed with that opportunity and even fewer pull it off.
Thanks again Jaybro.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Thank you, Ed!
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Aww man if we can't argue about ratings all we are left with is politics, climate change, and religion. Booo....
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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If my English would be fluent I would independently say same words as Ed did:
Jaybro's story Lucille stands as a chronicle of how a vision is morphed through obsession, and with dedication finally becomes something real.
The rating is really beside the point. It was a climb that came to us from the future..
And the words of P Kingsbury is not about rating discussion -with the intonation and place it looks like his intent was to put Jaybro's achievement down and nothing more
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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You haven't see me in awhile Mojede, are you going to make it to Vedauwoo for Sushifest?
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