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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jun 20, 2017 - 09:26am PT
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I feel a little bad about this post as we had such great weather and luck. It was my first kick at Robson and I had two corn fed Albertans who hired me to guide them. We climbed the Kain route up and down
Disclaimer: we flew in and out of the Dome which is pretty much cheating.
[photo[photoid=502171]id=502170]
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jun 20, 2017 - 10:22am PT
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great thread!
great observation/finding:
. . . the same general narrative.
Long approach
The naivety of youth
Get pretty far up the route
Iffy weather comes in
No summit
Long hike home
Tell each other "It ain't going nowhere...we can always come back."
You never do come back
Great memories tinged with a bit of regret best i've encountered from a dentist
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 20, 2017 - 10:48am PT
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Thanks Hooblie....I have my moments of clarity when I'm not cutting up somebody's mouth.
And Timmmc,
You should feel bad about that post. That ascent is totally invalid. How do we know that chopper didn't just drop yall off on the summit and that you didn't just lower down a bit on toprope for those action shots. Weak sauce.
All kidding aside, great send on an iconic peak!
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Jun 20, 2017 - 04:09pm PT
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Thanks Micronut. You got me for a second...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jun 20, 2017 - 05:20pm PT
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Somewhere I read that a dog had climbed Robson. Is that true?
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Jun 20, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
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Anders, Happy Cowboy mentions this at the end of his post upthread, with some Japanese climbers mistaking the dog for a wolf!
BD has a photo on Facebook, with the caption, "On the Kain Face of Mount Robson, Black Diamond's founder Peter Metcalf was joined by Warren Blesser, shown here rappelling with his dog. Having followed the team out of basecamp, the Alaskan Malamute never turned around and—to everyone's surprise—made the first canine ascent of the 50°+ route."
https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment/photos/a.304377381604.193174.153989481604/10153074893736605/
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 20, 2017 - 06:23pm PT
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Got up a few of the Canadian classics, but never the Big R. My wife and I hiked in once and watched Kevin Doyle (Boyle?) solo the N. Face in nothing flat. What a monster! We had a great evening at the Berg Lake hut watching a gigantic bull moose walk leisurely through the shallows of the lake, the north face of Robby aflame with alpenglow. Watching that vid tells me I'm unlikely to volunteer for big technical Rockies faces ever again. What crap! But damn, I love the Rockies.
BAd
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Jul 15, 2017 - 07:02pm PT
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Bump for this classic mountain!!
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Jul 16, 2017 - 10:59am PT
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I lucked out and had perfect weather on the Kain Face a couple days ago using the new, relatively painless and hazard-free Patterson Spur approach. The 'schrund crossings onto the glacier and back onto the face were tricky, the former having apparently turned one party back a day or two earlier. This was my second time on Robson, the first being a scarier outing up the SW ridge into a whiteout.
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