Bachar-Yerian timelinep-who did which ascent and when

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Aug 15, 2010 - 03:14pm PT

whoa, Jay wasn't kidding when he said 'show'

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Aug 15, 2010 - 03:54pm PT

Not the way I would have scheduled the climb, but as soon as you left the ground you never heard another word from down there. The party that night was awesome though! There's something to be said for having all of your friends on hand.

Mike Bolte

Trad climber

Planet Earth

Aug 15, 2010 - 04:37pm PT

So Jan - what's the scoop on the route and training for it? You were up there (in the meadows) a long time. Any good "road to the BY" tips?

Congratulations! Mike

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Aug 15, 2010 - 07:20pm PT

Pimp all of the hard problems on Boulder 1 at Stoney Point to build crimp strength. Do lots and lots of continuous laps at some sport area like the Apes Wall at Malibu. Then work your way thru the tune-ups in Tuolumne.

The first day we started on the right at East Cottage and did all the routes working left thru Orange Plasma. We did Shipoopi the next day (not the 12 pitch). We went to Hammer Dome and did both pitches of Shadow of a Doubt and then Skeletor along with some gold slime stuff, and then after a rest day we went to the Medlicott ledge and did a bunch of routes there. That was more climbing in 6 days then I have done in a long time but it all paid off.

Oh, and the most important piece, find and train up a young rope gun!

J. Werlin

Social climber

Cedaredge, CO

Aug 15, 2010 - 11:02pm PT

Very nice update. Good go on the route!

smoores

Social climber

San Francisco

Aug 17, 2010 - 07:56pm PT

Does anyone have the history of female ascents of the B-Y? I've read through two full threads about it now (this one and the one Clint linked to), and not one mention of any women having sent, or even tried it. If I had to guess, I would imagine Lynn Hill did it at some point, but I have never seen that confirmed anywhere. So - female ascents?

EdBannister

Mountain climber

Aug 17, 2010 - 08:51pm PT

the honeymoon couple with repeat....

and what about Mari?

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Aug 17, 2010 - 08:51pm PT

As far as I know Lynn only did the first 2 pitches then bailed. I don't know of any other women how have done it. I know lots that could though.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Aug 17, 2010 - 08:53pm PT

How many leg loops were on the first ascent?

EdBannister

Mountain climber

Aug 18, 2010 - 07:11pm PT

hat's off and congrats to Jan.

I want to be in that good of shape when I get that old.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

In the mountains... somewhere...

Aug 18, 2010 - 08:43pm PT

Old?! Old?! Who the hell are you calling old?!

I always thought of myself as well broken in, not old.

I tell you though, it really helped that I lost 12 pounds this year in preperation.

EdBannister

Mountain climber

Aug 19, 2010 - 02:13pm PT

I knew that would get a laugh.
really Jan, outstanding!

i need to lose at least 25 more, maybe 30.

as far as the old goes, better defined by activity and willingness,
than chronology, you and Gary Valle are both about 27.

Todd Worsfold

Trad climber

Bay Area

Sep 28, 2013 - 12:28pm PT

A belated post, not in here much... Ken Ariza was basically correct, I dragged a buddy up the BYR in 1985. After a long "trip" from North Tahoe to Tuolumene the evening before, we hiked up to Medlicott to climb the 10+ corner to the left of BYR, but it was seeping wet. Didn't want to waste the day, so I suggested the BYR in a temporary moment of insanity (I forgot having read about it several years prior). Didn't look too bad on the topo...At the time, the (bolt-protected)first crux was rated 11a/b. I managed to send it in a couple of tries, then scared the sh#t out of myself getting to the first belay. My partner came up, wanting to rap, but I talked him into letting me give pitch two a try.. After reaching that first bolt, it just became a matter of perseverance and repetition. The rest was rated 10b/c at the time (By John and Dave I'm sure). What struck me most is that the hardest moves on each section were always to be found right before the clip; 25' or so out from the previous bolt! Apparently John would push it until it got a bit dicey and THEN place the bolt. What an icon and legend..RIP John...

For the record, Eagles Way was not my first El Cap Route and was done in 1987 or so. It was Peter Mayfield who recommended the route; Troy Johnson was kind enough to demonstrate how to place a "bashie" (which turned out to be invaluable info!)

TW