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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 15, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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Not siding with Sloan here but....
If you put up a route following the faintest of features, running it out, miconutting, and keeping fixed pro to the absolute minimum....
if you do this on THE most famous cliff in the world...
one with a hundred other routes on it...
and choose not to publish a topo....
(to discourage pinning or bolting, correct?)
Well, I guess your damned if you do
Damned if you don't.
Steve, I hope your proud route didn't get "reworked"
but if it did.....
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 15, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
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Jeff makes a very valid point.
You are damned if you do,
you are damned if you don't.
My experience has been the time I sold out I made a couple hundred bucks.
The times I haven't sold out, the people that sold out my work made a couple hundred bucks.
Damned if you do, damned if you don't.
Maybe only the worse thing to come of it is to be damned by someone who doesn't give a damn.
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 16, 2016 - 04:43am PT
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A game of broken egos
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Heisenberg
Trad climber
RV, middle of Nowehere
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Jan 16, 2016 - 07:55am PT
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Those bolts need to be placed for someone who is 5'-7"
If they are not placed for that height Erik is going to have another project on his hands.
Someone needs to tell people who put up any new routes on El Cap..(Tommy and Kevin included) that bolt placement is every 5'-7".
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Erik Sloan
Big Wall climber
Yosemitebigwall.com
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Jan 16, 2016 - 09:22am PT
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Yo Gang!
Albatross - interesting take. So your 'routes' became routes to your friends you shared them with, and the rest of climbers (who might find a piece of webbing on a ledge, or a top of tin can) who came after you they are just ascents.
I have put up FAs. I put up an awesome Grade VI on the Camp 4 Wall here. I've also put up some small climbs. I'm just not into putting up knew routes, so almost never do it (people who put up new routes tend to be pretty active in their respective climbing areas).
Walked the base yesterday. Looked good! Even after a good rain it was dry up to the base of the Nose.
Won't be too long before you can climb up and check this out for yourself.
Woot Woot!
E
ps. I hope the thrust of my comments here are clear(as I don't have a horse in this either, having not climbed or made plans to climb either of these, supposed 'routes') - it is unfortunate when people alter public lands and do not report their efforts. That's all I'm saying. I don't care if you don't tell anyone but climb all over. Totally cool - I have friends who do that. But if you want to brag about it, spray all over your social media, then produce some description(i'm not saying there has to be a topo - that is dependent on the type of documentation at the area where the 'route' exists. On El Cap, for example, it's the accepted norm).
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Jan 16, 2016 - 11:25am PT
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^ pathetic
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Heisenberg
Trad climber
RV, middle of Nowehere
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Jan 16, 2016 - 05:41pm PT
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I'm just not into putting up knew routes, so almost never do it (people who put up new routes tend to be pretty active in their respective climbing areas).
What you meant to say Erik is : You are into retro bolting and altering other people FA's and routes to a height requirement of 5'7"
it is unfortunate when people alter public lands and do not report their efforts.
Please then provide a detailed report of the 2000 bolts you have placed and altered on said public lands. As you stated in previous posts one NEEDS to report these routes, alterations to someone for it to be a legitimate route/ascent.
I know you will not provide a list like that. You have become a narcissistic ass clown Erik. Name dropping people who won't even come here to support you i.e Scott Stowe.
Karma is a bitch. When is happens this year don't be surprised. Maybe someone should chop or alter his route on the porcelain wall.... hint hint.....
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Jan 24, 2016 - 09:00pm PT
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Someone has poor reading comprehension.
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