The Disciples of Gill

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bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Nov 15, 2009 - 01:17am PT

yes. classic shots, even.

Curt

Boulder climber

Gilbert, AZ

Nov 15, 2009 - 02:01am PT

Nice photos, Sunnyside. I also grew up in the midwest and have done all of the excellent Gill routes in your pics. Kudos to you.

Curt

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Nov 15, 2009 - 10:03am PT

Great pix sunnyside!

We didn't have the money or the wheels (or the permission of our parents!)to take off and chase Gill's problems around.

What we did have in central Oregon back before the sport climbing revolution was Master Of Rock, lots of desire and a gazillion great boulders. We got pretty good pretty darn fast!

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 12:05pm PT

It seems as though Master of Rock found its way to a lot
of different little corners of the world... I have
heard lots of people say that book changed their life
and have heard people say it alone changed climbing and
was one of the biggest contributors, if the not the biggest,
to the new age of super stars... Yet it never seemed to be
valued by "the establishment," the organizations of
mountaineers who didn't see bouldering as very important...

Bob D'A

Trad climber

Boulder, CO

Nov 15, 2009 - 02:01pm PT

Pat...like Gill you were way ahead of the curve when you wrote Master of Rock...simply brilliant!

Thanks, Bob

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Nov 15, 2009 - 02:46pm PT

"Yet it never seemed to be
valued by "the establishment," the organizations of
mountaineers who didn't see bouldering as very important... "

Pat,
it's a fair trade, since we often didn't place too much value on them either....

RAGE AGAINST THE MACHINE!!
Bruce

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Nov 15, 2009 - 07:50pm PT

Well, the establishment may be coming around.

The American Alpine Club has established the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award for outstanding mountaineering achievement. It is to be given annually to a person who, in the opinion of the selection committee, has demonstrated the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts and who, through the application of this skill, courage, and perseverance, has achieved outstanding success in the various fields of mountaineering endeavor.

Recipients:

* JOHN GILL Awarded: 2008

* Carlos Buhler Awarded: 2007
* Henry Barber Awarded: 2006
* Mark Wilford Awarded: 2005
* Charlie Fowler Awarded: 2004
* Jay Smith Awarded: 2003
* Conrad Anker & Nancy Feagin Awarded: 2002
* Jim Bridwell Awarded: 2000
* Annie Whitehouse Awarded: 2000
* Jack Tackle Awarded: 1999
* Jim Donini Awarded: 1999
* Allen Steck Awarded: 1998
* Steven J. Swenson Awarded: 1997
* Greg Child Awarded: 1996
* Robyn Erbesfield Awarded: 1996
* Stewart Alexander (Alex) Lowe (Deceased) Awarded: 1995
* Alison Keith Osius Awarded: 1994
* Michael P. Kennedy Awarded: 1994
* Louis F. Reichardt Awarded: 1993
* Terrance Manbeck Mugs Stump (posthumously) (Deceased) Awarded: 1992
* Catherine Calhoun Grisson Awarded: 1991
* Peter Croft Awarded: 1991
* George Lowe Awarded: 1990
* Yvon Chouinard Awarded: 1989
* Paul Piana Awarded: 1988
* Todd Skinner Awarded: 1988
* Catherine M. Freer (posthumously) Awarded: 1987
* Jeff Lowe Awarded: 1986
* David Finlay Breashears Awarded: 1985
* Lynn Marie Hill Awarded: 1984
* John Roskelly Awarded: 1983
* John Bachar Awarded: 1983

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2009 - 09:17am PT

Yes after thirty or some years they finally recognized
Gill. Better late than never. And indeed that is a good
list of worthy people, but how clear in my
mind are those that should be there, or in some similar list,
and have not been, Bob Kamps, Tom Higgins, Rich Goldstone,
Pete Cleveland, no Royal Robbins or Chuck Pratt? No Tom Frost?
No Glen Denny? No Jim Holloway? No Greg Lowe? Well I could go
on and on, and I realize everyone can't be named... but there
must be some kind of way to acknowlege all those who have done
so much. That was part of my motivation for my book Wizards
of Rock (which I hope to re-release one of these days with
revisions, updates, etc.).

klk

Trad climber

cali

Nov 16, 2009 - 11:23am PT

nice pix-- i'm getting crushed at work and can't write much (or scan much) right now.

when jim mccarthy became aac president, as part of his broader reform of the institution, he did reach out to gill. john later did a really good and (for many of us) important article on bouldering for the journal, as well. there just wasn't much widespread support in the greater climbing community for recognizing bouldering.

anyone who wants to spend some time at the aac archive can find john's membership application-- along with those from folks like ansel adams --right there in the file. pretty entertaining reading, watching john carefully enumerate his "routes" by difficulty and date.

pat's original edition of master of rock was one of my real sources of inspiration (along with, later, swaramandal and rock wise). the first version of master is still my favorite--

many folks today forget the alpine context and influence on gill's early climbing and bouldering. christian beckwith took a lot of flak for the bouldering special issue of alpinist, but i thought that his introduction to that issue was really smart and pretty much on the money.

i'm looking forward to pat's new film. sorry i can't get to the premiere.

cheers

kerwin

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2009 - 12:45pm PT

Thanks Kerwin,
and I hope to set some shows up out your way. Let me
know what you think the best approach would be, with
regard to that.

And wow that's an interesting painting, or watercolor, or whatever
it is. I could almost imagine it as the cover of the new Wizards!

Pat

klk

Trad climber

cali

Nov 17, 2009 - 10:03am PT

Pat-- Two years ago, I could've set something up on campus really easily. Right now, we're in free fall, so off-campus would probably be easier.

Let me ask around.

Hope the leg's feeling better

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 12:36am PT

Yes the leg is better, though still very sore.
The film has the whole ugly fall in it, seems to fit
that section where I talk about age and how some
of us old geezers approach the boulders now... Couldn't
have better timed my near demise.

Robb

Social climber

The Greeley Triangle

Nov 19, 2009 - 11:17am PT

Glad to hear your leg's better Pat. Tuesday night still look like it's a go?

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Nov 19, 2009 - 11:39am PT

A rerun, but it seems like it has a place here
Chris Raypole retreating from the 'Gill problem' in the Lower parking lot, Vedauwoo,

Curt

Boulder climber

Gilbert, AZ

Nov 19, 2009 - 12:15pm PT

Thanks for reposting the Raypole pic. That's a great problem, and it's a bit harder than it looks.

Curt

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber

Fruita, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2009 - 02:24pm PT

Yes I'll be there tuesday. Nothing could keep me
away. Can't wait to meet with friends, old and new,
and just to have a good time. How about spaghetti at
the Gondolier afterward? Ahh, they're probably closed by
then. I'm hungry just thinking about it.

Make sure to tell your friends,

Pat

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Nov 22, 2009 - 12:26am PT

Hey just realized---Tuesday is my birthday. Number 66, but who's counting? Sorry I can't be there (I get to celebrate with a full day of teaching) but sing a round of the bd song for auld lang syne eh? Have a blast!