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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Well, I finally had the time to read this great report and inspiring too. it was cool to see you guys from the meadow finishing the climb.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
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Slakkey, i just saw your earlier post about the bright headlamp. It was a Petzl MYO XP. It is John's headlamp but he let me borrow it for the leading. It's a bit pricy but way, way nice and bright.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Nov 10, 2009 - 12:59am PT
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Mark,
Very inspiring. A buddy told me of your post and I had to check it out. Yeah, guess time can slip away from ya. Life gets busy: marriage, career, kids...none of these do I regret, but sure wish I always had/have time for more climbing.
My friend just went climbing w/ Ron Kauk a few weeks ago...Let's see Ron is gotta be pushing 50 right? Anyway, Ron warmed up on a 5.13 and did laps on it as my friend (ten-twelve years younger than Ron and a solid climber himself) supposedly struggled up it.
As the years are flying by it is good to hear that I still could/can do NAID in the years to come. STAY FIT CLIMB HARD. You got me motivated.
Thanks Mark!
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Nov 10, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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Mark thanks for the grand inspiration ! I broke the 50 year old barrier in September and was getting a wee bit bummed about it. Your post is adding fuel to the fire being lit under my ass, by several old friends, to get back on the program ...
Congrats on your NIAD flash !
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2009 - 10:02am PT
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Thanks again,
One tip I have is to tell everyone you know that you're going to do the Nose in a day. Tell your mother, your sisters, your brother, waitresses at restaurants, cab drivers, the mailman, maybe even get the local newspaper to write an article about you doing it. I call this the "digging a hole motivational program". After a while of laying that groundwork you'll have strangers asking you if you've done it yet.
Eventually you simply have to go do it or move to another town.
Works for me.
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ldhr
Trad climber
hood river
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Nov 10, 2009 - 11:45am PT
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Mark - great story and accomplishment. I got sweaty palms just by reading the trip report. I got so motivated I just dropped and did 30 pushups! My training goals have nothing to do with climbing anymore but you've motivated me to set bigger goals and go after it.
Thanks for sharing!
Laird Davis
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Nov 11, 2009 - 11:38am PT
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Congratulations Mark, on a spectacular, purely life-affirming, "timeless" achievement! Besides vision, training and execution, you and your crack team (John, wife and daughter), also paint a picture of the powers of Togetherness. ¡Viva El Capitan and your entire Crew! -Bruce
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Double D
climber
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Nov 12, 2009 - 12:14am PT
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"digging a hole motivational program"... LOL!
But so true, eh?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Nov 12, 2009 - 03:43am PT
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yo hud, nice job on the nose. pm said you thrashed him on the IV on black wall...that's almost more impessive to me than the nose.
so hud, why don't you put me on your big wall list. i got a place in mariposa. you bring the coffee, i'll supply the hot tub.
oh, i also got back into windsurfing this year. can you teach me how to f#*%ing turn! ciao, steve schneider
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 12, 2009 - 03:56am PT
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"f#*%ing Turn"
Hahaha - now we're talking some real suffering. That there is a closely guarded secret of the gorge guild, but if you were up next season I'm sure Mark or one of the others of us could help you out with that - to the degree that anyone can 'help' another with it, of course.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 12, 2009 - 09:12am PT
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What a cool thread!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2009 - 09:46am PT
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Steve, I'm going to take you up on that. Come on up to the Gorge this summer, I'll get you going on the water.
take care,
MH
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fosburg
climber
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Nov 12, 2009 - 09:51am PT
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The affirmation stuff probably works. The other day on the Macabre Roof I declared, "I'm Jerry Moffat, I'm on top-rope" like that psycho in Hard Grit and it worked. Good job on the NIAD! Like many, I was inspired by Long, Hard, and Free back in the day.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 14, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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Mark sending this summer, 5.12.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 14, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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I vote Mark as "Guy with his shite most together" in Climbing...
WOW!!!
Great TR. Great story.
Post Review Edit: I'm with Jaybro... this is a really cool thread...
I'll be back
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sunnyside
Big Wall climber
boulder
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Nov 14, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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On your mark, get set
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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I wish we had taken a camera. I'd really like to have a shot looking down at John, in his bubble of light, belaying me on the last pitch. That was wild, it being totally dark and us so way up there and not being able see anything. Maybe next time. I suspect there will be more NIAD in my future.
You know, I'd actually like to go up there and take a couple days to do it, but try to free climb as much as I can, same as Max and I did in '79. Haul two light little haul packs, lead and follow everything. I think that would be way fun.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 15, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
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Here's Mark on a Hidden Treasure, 11c. one of the best routes in ....
Yeah mark,you got to bring a little Canon along, they fit in your shirt pocket, no reason not to, except they don't do so well in the chimneys..may my last camera rest in peace.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
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I have a Canon G10 (and I also have one for sale) that is a really nice camera except it's a tad too big for a shirt or pants pocket. I have a nice, over the shoulder case and set up for it but still, the weight and the time convinced me otherwise. Next time for sure though. I want to explore climbing with a Camelbak that is small and light but one that has a few pockets.
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