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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 13, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Yesterday @the super secret cliff. P1 of a 2 pitch 10a spurt climb we put up last year Norwegian Star.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 13, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
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All the necessary ingredients...
Warming up
Classic, V3
Goin' HUGE!
starting up The Green Room
on Nat's Three Star Roof
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 13, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
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Badass, Gonzo chemist. That sh#t rocks. In a good way.
I just cruised the cliffs. Basey stuff. Lots of baby birds about.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 13, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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A nice three days in the Creek. Relatively unpopulated, guess people thought it would be hot- it wasn't.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 14, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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"Duh-Brim"?!
So this is the genus that wrote the book I just finished?! The young stud in those photos by Vern?
"A victim of transmogrification, my dear Hobbes. And obviously a victim of concussion from all those turns, and the fall, you know."--Holmes
Nice to see DR is still in.
I still owe him a copy of Mtns of Memory, but I can't remember if I ever sent it.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 14, 2012 - 02:12am PT
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seven sport routes.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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May 14, 2012 - 03:00am PT
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Forgive the pansy-ass slab traverse (coming back from injury lol) on this quality boulder in Mammoth. [Click to View YouTube Video]
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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May 14, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
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Cleo and I joined the conga line known as Snake Hike
We thought that a late start would get us to the rock after all the other parties had gone up the rock. Wrong!! 6 other parties had that same idea.
However, after hiking 4 1/2 hours to get there (I'm old, fat and slow), there was no way I was going to turn around and try another day.
Ye gods, the 3rd class does go on forever, don't it? One of our other friends complained that people are born, they get married and die in the time it takes to walk up that last bit.
Got to the summit, ate some more lunch and then got ready for the punishing part. Back at the car at 1AM, that was a 17 hour car to car day. Caldwell and Honnold did the regular route in the time it took us to get to the top of the first pitch.
There was a nice sunset though and the views are totally spectacular.
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David D.
Trad climber
Monterey
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May 14, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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Snuck away from leading my wife's family on a tour of Yosemite/Tuolumne Meadows for a quick run up Puppy Crack on Puppy Dome in the Meadows. Fun, mellow way to start the season.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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May 16, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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climbed all over this thing
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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Sport climbing yesterday, nothing today, the Black Canyon tomorrow.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 20, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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Bouldering at Sehome Hill rocked in the dry weather! Fingers of steel... mind of mush!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 20, 2012 - 06:36am PT
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Humped the 70lb FA pack out to my secret spot friday after work. Suited up with the full trad rack for unknown territory, hammer, pins,hooks, bolt kit etc. Strapped the Bosch to my ass and tried to lift off... Holy crap that solo GU thing has gotten so old. No one to help hump the gear, crappy GriGri belay, have to carry it all with you instead of bringing up the drill on a tag line when you need it.. Bla Bla, bla. The result is you climb like crap. Got up about 20ft one pin and one bolt in.. Not happy with the bolt. Drilled it high @ the end of my reach off of a beak W/ groundfall potentual. Once I clipped it and climbed up there is a fine crack running right through it! GGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! Then it got dark, the buggs and ticks devoured me as I loaded all that crap back in the pack and humpped it back out. 1.5 hrs driveing, 1.5 hrs hikeing, 45min gearing up and breaking down, 1 hr climbing.....
Comming to the realization (long overdue)that unless it is an obvious gear line with sparse drilling required top down gives you a much better finished product. The 2 multi pitch 10s that I put up out there are perfect with the bolt placements and actually have fewer bolts than I would have placed had I been sketched on lead and weighted down with too much gear. Next time out I am gonna have to find the top of this thing without getting killed, rap in and have a look to see if I can even get to the start and get a TR on it.. TD ain't a picnic either sometimes...
Have to work @ noon but going fee soloing this morning. Oh The liberation of climbing without all that stuff!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 22, 2012 - 03:50am PT
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Nice one Tradman!
Not today but Saturday I did a classic route on the Chief
The Grand Wall Lite 13a (11a A0)
This one is a classic by itself. Luke on P3 The Split Pillar 10b
A closeup. The Pillar is at least 40m long. It feels like it's never going to end.
A shot of the ledge at the top of the Pillar and the Sword belay.
Luke on the Sword of Damocles 11a
This route is amazing. I can't wait to go back. When are you coming Mike M? ;)
topo: http://www.squamishrockguides.com/grand_wall.htm
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 22, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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not TODAY, per se.....but on Sunday.
Some easy wide stuff
goofing around...
a potato chip...
also climbed Friday the 13th, Deception, and Lower Progressive. Another fun day at the Voo!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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I hear you have to get a passport these days and need $$ maybe next summer I will have to plan a trip.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 25, 2012 - 09:06am PT
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A really good route in the Black Canyon that needs to get done more. Highway 61 Revisited, sports a5.10+ rating but one pitch is more like 11b. Seven pitches out of 11 are 5.10 or harder. Next to, but more continuous than, the Scenic Cruise- put it on your tick list!
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 25, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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Donini,
got pics?
Man, it'd be cool to get down there and climb something in the Black Canyon. But I think I got to get a helluva lot better before heading in there.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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