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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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Big sandy bumps...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 22, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
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Centerpiece on Chimney Rock, I believe. One route left of Single Lens Reflex.
You may be amused to know that the third pitch headwall on Days originally had only a single bolt...But that is another story!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 22, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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Steve,
Would that be this one, not many on this I recall, one or two maybe (in 2003)
Or the next, which was about 5.8?
The architecture on the descent was awesome, the rap followed the line of a wicked looking off width thingy - very scary to contemplate climbing it.
With timezones and all, are you up early, or late, it's 2130 here?
Best,
Steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 23, 2012 - 09:43am PT
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The third pitch is the first photo and has three bolts these days after we added a couple when we completed the route.
Late my friend...and early!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 26, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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Bump
Steve
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 26, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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Blakey cleanin up!
Nice tick list you got there in the Stronghold.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 26, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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There's more yet...but this thread's like a poker game - yer don't wanna show all yer hand too early ;-)
It is a fantastic place. I had the privilege of living for 18 months in Sierra Vista, only 50 min from the Stronghold.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 27, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
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C'mon folks......post up!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 28, 2012 - 03:49am PT
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Hi Steve,
I was on Abra with Courtney, who was a 'recovering crack climber'!
He linked pitch one and two
I remember the first pitch as very straightforward, the 5.9 second pitch (5.9 ho, ho) was the work of the devil. I at least had pants on. Court wore shorts. Somwhere half way up I recall an old bolt, out on the right edge. How that was drilled was beyond me. The fabulous finger flake was a romp by comparison. A funky move out left at the top to the belay was spicy.
At that point we bailed - it was bitterly cold, early Feb I think and in the shade
So we called in on What's my Line on the way out which I managed to do free.
I did most of my climbing out there with Courtney, a very fit bloke who I've sadly lost contact with. I think he's out in SLC now. If anyone knows him tell him to drop me a line.
never had a bad day in the Stronghold - an absolutely magical place - and virtually unknown in the
UK.
You and your buds were the cats who got the cream!
Steve
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Apr 28, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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I think this thread still needs some shots of Leviathan Dome-- anyone? Alas, I didn't take any.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 28, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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Actually a couple of cool cats of the Empire by the names of Littlejohn and Motherseal visited the Stronghold back in 1979.
They did Echoes, the first route on "Dappled Dome" as they called it at the time.
The name should have stuck but somehow the much less colorful Entrance Dome did.
The also did Wishbone on Cochise Dome.
I had the pleasure later in their visit of watching Pat stroll up Butterfingers in Yosemite like it was a VS!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I had the pleasure of sport climbing (gasp!)with D Baker on Mt Lemmon this weekend.
Great guy!
I had to tell him he ruined my life.
Why?
He sold me my first pair of climbing shoes in '88.
Maybe my teeth would be in better shape, maybe I'd have some savings, a college education, more brain cells, less crows feet...
Nah.
Actually, Dave, you saved my life.
No regrets.
And thanks for all the stellar routes and for running Tucson's only climbing shop.
I love rockclimbing.
Love my home state, my local mountain, fellow natives.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Great shots, Blake - thanks for keeping the stoke alive.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Just for you then, some of Warpaint .........
Next bit is a little messy, but takes you to the base of the main event...
Which I got, woohoo!
Courtney got the steepening above, here's looking back down at the belay from above the bulge.
Coming up the slab below the pitch five belay.
And the last pitch, I think this may have been an alternate finish - anyone know?
All the while enjoying the unique stronghold ambiance......
I never had bad day in the Stronghold, and regardless of when I was there, mid week or weekend, usually we had the place to ourselves.
It was really busy that day - there was a party on Moby Dick!
Steve
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Warpaint is a fun one. Top it off with Cotamundi Corner on the hike out!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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The initial moves on Warpaint will wake you up!
And I love the view of Elsie the Cow as you get higher.
Da Animal Guy messin' with Da Doctor on Sheepshead:
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